All things AC Infinity controller 67, 69 and 69 Pro

Considering connecting an RJ11/12 jack to my hlg600h-36-ab drivers, then using the adapter to control them. I think I have the diming figured out thanks to HLG faq page but trying to figure out if I just bypass the remote on/off or what?
20230507_174356.jpg
I got time to work on this but also if I can do this I should be able to run and control those drivers on 240 which would gain me just under 2% in efficiency.
 
Considering connecting an RJ11/12 jack to my hlg600h-36-ab drivers, then using the adapter to control them. I think I have the diming figured out thanks to HLG faq page but trying to figure out if I just bypass the remote on/off or what?
View attachment 167197
I got time to work on this but also if I can do this I should be able to run and control those drivers on 240 which would gain me just under 2% in efficiency.
Hmm, a couple of my qb's have HLG-244H-36AB drivers with dimmers.
I wondered if there was a way to use the RJ11/12 adapter for those too.
 

Also thinking I can direct wire if I get a pin out of their extension cables which I just requested.
I just ordered 3 of the AC-ADL7 0-10v dimmer type A adapters.
I'll pick up 3 rj11 4 contact jacks at Lowes and see what happens. All 6 of my Kingbrite qb's have dimmable Meanwell drivers.
I'm running 3 boards in my flower room now. With the 2 to 1 adapter dongles I can control all 3 from one port all with the same programming.

Maybe.

I think.
 
Good morning to youuns, well I'm about 9 days out on my Monkey Balls harvest. Hope to get a decent handfull of seeds.
Then I'll be tearing out the old fans attemp this Controller 69 Pro install.
The 3 dimmer adapters will arrive today so I'll be seeing if they dim my Meanwell drivers properly.
I got to thunkin, the 4 Sun Systems CMH ballasts are dimmable as well. They have a plug in port for a 1/8" 2 conductor plug also so,,,, I'm wondering if these could be run from the other "Type B" adapter for resistor type dimming? These don't use a rheostat dimmer but go through their controller.
I ordered one of those adapters to give it a try.
 
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100% guessing here.
Either adapter is probably at least partially compatible with meanwell 3 in 1 dimming drivers. Caveat being the pin outs of the wiring has to line up and full dimming range may not be achieved.

As far as the cmh and to my understanding most other dimmible balasts use a low volt control. I'd choose the A type adapter.

I cut into a uis and other adapter cables and now think because they are using proprietary commutation means hacking this thing is gonna be pretty brute for me at least. There's a 5th green wire that I gather is data so the controller "knows" what device is plugged in (note the icon that appears when port is in use). So, if they are smart at all about being "proprietary" there won't be any pwm output if the controller doesn't receive the right info. They gave me some info in my email request but nothing that isn't on their website, the Frontline CS reps cant/don't/won't provide enough info to hack the devices.

I've got the B type adapter, in theory I should be able to measure resistance across 2 of the 4 wires in their rj11/12 cable that is included with the adapter. Jumping to more conclusions this same cable is what's included with the A type adapters and the pwm signal goes over two of the wires and the low voltage is the other two.

Proceed at own risk, smoke does not go back in.
 
100% guessing here.
Either adapter is probably at least partially compatible with meanwell 3 in 1 dimming drivers. Caveat being the pin outs of the wiring has to line up and full dimming range may not be achieved.

As far as the cmh and to my understanding most other dimmible balasts use a low volt control. I'd choose the A type adapter.

I cut into a uis and other adapter cables and now think because they are using proprietary commutation means hacking this thing is gonna be pretty brute for me at least. There's a 5th green wire that I gather is data so the controller "knows" what device is plugged in (note the icon that appears when port is in use). So, if they are smart at all about being "proprietary" there won't be any pwm output if the controller doesn't receive the right info. They gave me some info in my email request but nothing that isn't on their website, the Frontline CS reps cant/don't/won't provide enough info to hack the devices.

I've got the B type adapter, in theory I should be able to measure resistance across 2 of the 4 wires in their rj11/12 cable that is included with the adapter. Jumping to more conclusions this same cable is what's included with the A type adapters and the pwm signal goes over two of the wires and the low voltage is the other two.

Proceed at own risk, smoke does not go back in.
Lol, you've already dove in deeper than I have.
I do have a couple spare meanwells if the smoke tries to escape.
The adapters use a 4 wire "phone" style cord with rj11 jack plugs. The dimmer is only 2 wires. The photo you added above for wiring the jacks doubles the wires together, I'm curious if this is for full current to flow the 4 wire cord?
 
Lol, you've already dove in deeper than I have.
I do have a couple spare meanwells if the smoke tries to escape.
The adapters use a 4 wire "phone" style cord with rj11 jack plugs. The dimmer is only 2 wires. The photo you added above for wiring the jacks doubles the wires together, I'm curious if this is for full current to flow the 4 wire cord?
For the meanwell driver spec on remote dimming I thought the current was on the order of mA? Also pwm and low volt signal should be fine over the 22 or 24 ga or whatever a phone line is?

Thought the doubling of wires was to daisy chain the lights with the "phone" cord.

IIRC a 10K ohm resistor would dim up to three drivers?

Plenty more questions not many answers.
 
i love this thread.

i have two of the 67s, but have just been using it as a monitor for temp and heat and it runs exhaust fan when humidity goes up.

i had legit no idea i could finagle it to power lights or actually do anything else, huh. didnt come with a manual so i never even thought about it.
 
Almost gave up on hacking the splitter, then I realised they published the answers I needed. Thier splitter reads what is plugged into the first port then treats all others as the same device and that 1st port also has to be powered.

The problem I was having is by splicing into the wire I could only get one inline fan to work at a time. If I plugged the molex fan in the uis fan didn't work. If I used a seperate port (one for intake and one for exhaust) both fans worked fine.

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Works like a charm now.
 

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