HOGBACKMAGIC14
In Bloom
amazon it was like 10 bucks got 2 1 for backup
Cloning success
- Thread starter PNW Strainhunter
- Start date
Ed Rooney
In Bloom
@Frosty78, once you get a good look at a turbocloner you'll decide to make one yourself, easy peasy for you mate. I bought the 94 site turbocloner and the first res leaked. A fair price for one would be a quarter of the price.
I've been taking heaps of cuts lately to up my clone game. Peat plugs, vermicompost/coco mix, rockwool and the turbo. Turbo is the easiest with plugs coming in second for me.
I run the turbo 15min off every 45 but will give PNW's method a crack with 15 on 15 off as it is still getting too hot. Run ph at 5.8 and check daily for adjustments as it creeps up. When its dialed it works well, especially if you let them ride for a bit longer and get some extra root mass.
Foliar every day with fine mist of water and seaweed for the win.
I've been taking heaps of cuts lately to up my clone game. Peat plugs, vermicompost/coco mix, rockwool and the turbo. Turbo is the easiest with plugs coming in second for me.
I run the turbo 15min off every 45 but will give PNW's method a crack with 15 on 15 off as it is still getting too hot. Run ph at 5.8 and check daily for adjustments as it creeps up. When its dialed it works well, especially if you let them ride for a bit longer and get some extra root mass.
Foliar every day with fine mist of water and seaweed for the win.
I have had this cloner for a little over a year now, and im pretty close to 100 percent success with it still...
Amazon product
Im still experimenting with different nutrient levels, but somewhere around half strength Athena AG grow solution works pretty well. The only trouble I have is sometimes it takes a few days for the roots to hit the reservoir, so the cuts have a tendency to go deficient before then, but always improve after that, or once transplanted. I have tried a couple other methods, and none are as successful for me as my Clone King.
Amazon product
Im still experimenting with different nutrient levels, but somewhere around half strength Athena AG grow solution works pretty well. The only trouble I have is sometimes it takes a few days for the roots to hit the reservoir, so the cuts have a tendency to go deficient before then, but always improve after that, or once transplanted. I have tried a couple other methods, and none are as successful for me as my Clone King.
PNW Strainhunter
In Bloom
Coleman cooler with removable lid, not hinges. 1.5" pvc with elbows and adapted for pump, 9/36 boring bit makes holes perfect for 360 sprayers, 2" hole saw bit, 2" net pots, non toxic glue gun glue, cheap low watt pump. Space the holes with 1/2-1" in between and you can build a 200 site unit for under $100 instead of spending $350-450. I built a dozen of them from 2012-2014. Wear a painters mask
I can see how this method wouldnt be optimal for shipping clones tho. I usually have a large mass of roots after a week or two. That wouldnt work out all that great in the mail.
PNW Strainhunter
In Bloom
Yeah, I havent had a clone machine in over a year. Miss them tough. Went through over twenty machines in 8 years. Never had one break down, but everytime someone said hey you wanna sell any of these cloners, I always think hell, sell the used one and buy a new one!
Frosty78
Habitabat autem somnium
ill have a crack at it next weekend ed. seems fairly simple. i like the $99 one though that @jaguarlax put up. time vs $$$ too i guess
Fluffy Butt
In Bloom
Two weeks ago I picked up a clone dome, some clonex gel, and a bag of root riot cubes. I took 5 clones from 2 strains, and all 10 clones are showing roots at 12 days 
.
I also took a few clones with aloe a few days later, and some with nothing but water, so it will be interesting to see how well those do.
.I also took a few clones with aloe a few days later, and some with nothing but water, so it will be interesting to see how well those do.
i think your cloning method depends on what type of culture you are using.
for example, in water cloners and turbo cloners the roots differentiate immediately into "water" type roots.
the ladder, fishbone type.
these roots are highly adapted to functioning in water which is fine if you are going into dwc or undercurrents, or another root in the water style.
but if you are going into some kind of medium then these roots can cause a stall while they adapt to the "air" environment.
i have seen folks take 2 foot-long fishbone type roots from an aerocloner and put them straight into coco, for example, winding them up in a ball to get them in.
then they wonder why the plants are slow taking off.
for example, in water cloners and turbo cloners the roots differentiate immediately into "water" type roots.
the ladder, fishbone type.
these roots are highly adapted to functioning in water which is fine if you are going into dwc or undercurrents, or another root in the water style.
but if you are going into some kind of medium then these roots can cause a stall while they adapt to the "air" environment.
i have seen folks take 2 foot-long fishbone type roots from an aerocloner and put them straight into coco, for example, winding them up in a ball to get them in.
then they wonder why the plants are slow taking off.
Psychobilly
🧀Muenster
Cloning plants took trial and error, and a few hundred cuss words now and then. Eventually we finally got it like this:
I can't stress enough to clone a plant that's in good condition.....
Use clean utensils to make cuts
I don't worry if mine are organic or not, so IBA to soften the stem to make it easier for roots to grow. Also had a small amount of usefulness from weeping willow tree branches cut up and allowed to soak in water for a day. Seems to have IBA in it too though I'm not positive
Once the IBA is on the cut, it's placed directly into wet soil.
Use a clear plastic cup for the soil, and a red or whatever color plastic cup on the outside so you can check for root growth.
Personally I wait until I see roots on the side or bottom of the clear cup, and then I consider them ready.
I've had roots appear in 2 weeks or so, and this last season I had roots on the cup in like a week. Depends really though.
This is the only time I allow my plants humidity and warm air.... sometimes the clone will get wilted, and sometimes not a lot, but a small heating pad under the cups seems to help. I generally keep my plants as cool as I can ( I start seedlings around 68 degrees Fahrenheit) but clones I am ok with them being warm and wet.
My soon to be Father in law put my clones after they were cut right into a tent that was in veg, on the floor of the tent..... I have read that allowing light on them before they have roots is a bad idea, so I feel like you'd do better without light at first so the leaves don't cannibalize themselves.
I really hope this helps; trying to get healthy clones started will make you wonder if you can get an insurance claim for wear and tear on middle fingers.
I can't stress enough to clone a plant that's in good condition.....
Use clean utensils to make cuts
I don't worry if mine are organic or not, so IBA to soften the stem to make it easier for roots to grow. Also had a small amount of usefulness from weeping willow tree branches cut up and allowed to soak in water for a day. Seems to have IBA in it too though I'm not positive
Once the IBA is on the cut, it's placed directly into wet soil.
Use a clear plastic cup for the soil, and a red or whatever color plastic cup on the outside so you can check for root growth.
Personally I wait until I see roots on the side or bottom of the clear cup, and then I consider them ready.
I've had roots appear in 2 weeks or so, and this last season I had roots on the cup in like a week. Depends really though.
This is the only time I allow my plants humidity and warm air.... sometimes the clone will get wilted, and sometimes not a lot, but a small heating pad under the cups seems to help. I generally keep my plants as cool as I can ( I start seedlings around 68 degrees Fahrenheit) but clones I am ok with them being warm and wet.
My soon to be Father in law put my clones after they were cut right into a tent that was in veg, on the floor of the tent..... I have read that allowing light on them before they have roots is a bad idea, so I feel like you'd do better without light at first so the leaves don't cannibalize themselves.
I really hope this helps; trying to get healthy clones started will make you wonder if you can get an insurance claim for wear and tear on middle fingers.
Psychobilly
🧀Muenster
Oh! Also! Moss blocks! I use them to start seeds, but I think they're made for clones.
Ive rooted in all kinds of soiless mixes under domes and rockwell cubes but this little oxycloner was the best 60 bucks ive ever spent...i dont do nothing to special poland spring water add maxi bloom to 150-200 ppm ph to around 5.8 lately ive been adding some orca but never used to been using this thing for the last 5 years love it... Ive had up to 3 clones per site lol heres my last run a light load...
several people have asked about the cloner i use. it's nothing but a 10 gal rubbermaid tub. the tub itself is untouched. the lid has 12 3" holes cut in it.
i use these square bottom solo cups because it's easy to cut two corners off with a pair of scissors.
the material is a 1" x 8" piece of "thermolam plus" fabric from walmart and places that sell fabrics. a few dollars per yard. it is used as an insulating layer for quilt making and is 100% polyester which makes for fine wicking material.
thread it through both holes so that equal lengths hang out.
the tub has a molded line in it about halfway up. this is your fill level line. i use a 350 ppm jack's calcinit solution initially ph'd to 5.8 but it will rise during the rooting process and i let it.
i use the regular medium grade perlite and rinse it well. also, after loading the cups i will pour nutrient solution through them to waste one time before putting the cups in the container.
make a hole in the perlite all the way down to the bottom. if it is centered it will hit the cloth wick.
cut the clones long enough to reach the bottom and cut them off square, not at an angle. the reason for this is that it puts the end of the cutting in full contact with the fabric. guaranteed pathway for water.
i scarify the last 1-1.5" of the cutting before packing the perlite snugly around the stem. i don't usually use a rooting hormone.
i clone out in the open in my main veg room with no domes but the room is 82-84f and 85% rh all the time.
you want the solo cups resting lightly in the hole not shoved down as far as possible. this is to maintain the small air gap below the cups.
i normally don't refill as the solution level drops as the cuttings are in the containers less than 14 days.
at 10 days roots will begin showing out of the cups along the wick. i let them get grow out a few days and then cut the roots and wick material outside of the cup off at transplant. leaving a thick, bushy, ball of roots.
with this technique there is a very low failure rate and nothing to do but wait after loading the clones.
this has a nearly 100% success rate. it is a great way to produce large cuttings for transplant into a media.
i use these square bottom solo cups because it's easy to cut two corners off with a pair of scissors.
the material is a 1" x 8" piece of "thermolam plus" fabric from walmart and places that sell fabrics. a few dollars per yard. it is used as an insulating layer for quilt making and is 100% polyester which makes for fine wicking material.
thread it through both holes so that equal lengths hang out.
the tub has a molded line in it about halfway up. this is your fill level line. i use a 350 ppm jack's calcinit solution initially ph'd to 5.8 but it will rise during the rooting process and i let it.
i use the regular medium grade perlite and rinse it well. also, after loading the cups i will pour nutrient solution through them to waste one time before putting the cups in the container.
make a hole in the perlite all the way down to the bottom. if it is centered it will hit the cloth wick.
cut the clones long enough to reach the bottom and cut them off square, not at an angle. the reason for this is that it puts the end of the cutting in full contact with the fabric. guaranteed pathway for water.
i scarify the last 1-1.5" of the cutting before packing the perlite snugly around the stem. i don't usually use a rooting hormone.
i clone out in the open in my main veg room with no domes but the room is 82-84f and 85% rh all the time.
you want the solo cups resting lightly in the hole not shoved down as far as possible. this is to maintain the small air gap below the cups.
i normally don't refill as the solution level drops as the cuttings are in the containers less than 14 days.
at 10 days roots will begin showing out of the cups along the wick. i let them get grow out a few days and then cut the roots and wick material outside of the cup off at transplant. leaving a thick, bushy, ball of roots.
with this technique there is a very low failure rate and nothing to do but wait after loading the clones.
this has a nearly 100% success rate. it is a great way to produce large cuttings for transplant into a media.
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Rozgreenburn
"The Philosopher, is Stoned"
Good call @jaguarlax, I have been running the 36 site version of the Clone King and am also at nearly 100%. Best $100.00 I've spent in years!
Rozgreenburn
"The Philosopher, is Stoned"
Usually, I just heavily mist all the lowers that I intend to clone, for 3-4 days prior to taking the cuttings. It is supposed to remove excess Nitrogen. Good luck.
Psychobilly
🧀Muenster
Personally I've never done that myself, but if that works it's worth a try. Usually I concentrate on making sure the plant itself is healthy looking, and that I chop a piece that is big enough, and splitting the stem to allow more surface area for roots to come out.
for a while in oregon the legislature kept changing around the medical plants count limits. not the number you can have for each patient in flower but the total number of vegging plants.
i had to cut back on the total number to comply so i started "air layering" large cuts.
as they were still on the donor plant they couldn't be used against you.
this technique is just about bulletproof and you can take huge cuttings. i would take about the whole last foot of a branch.
i don't have any pics but it's very easy to do.
scarify the area just above where you intend to cut and take 2 jiffy plugs or rapid rooters and cut them length-wise only halfway through like a hot dog bun but halfway.
put them both over the scarified area end to end and i used a couple of pieces of cotton string to hold them in place but whatever you got will work.
then wrap them light-proof in aluminum foil.
i used a snack-sized sandwich bag cut half-way down the side sides then pulled up over the foil and zipped shut. if you didn't cut too far the bag should seal pretty well around the limb. some folks use saran wrap.
give it about ten days and check it. it should be full of roots. cut off just below the roots and transplant.
i put these right into 7 gal containers and they just take off.
they don't even need a reduction in nutes as they have just come off a plant running in my case at around 850 ppm at .5.
use fresh wet rooter plugs. i bought i think the rapid rooter brand in the grow stores and they came moist in a bag.
these grow the whole time they are rooting as well so watch out!
i had to cut back on the total number to comply so i started "air layering" large cuts.
as they were still on the donor plant they couldn't be used against you.
this technique is just about bulletproof and you can take huge cuttings. i would take about the whole last foot of a branch.
i don't have any pics but it's very easy to do.
scarify the area just above where you intend to cut and take 2 jiffy plugs or rapid rooters and cut them length-wise only halfway through like a hot dog bun but halfway.
put them both over the scarified area end to end and i used a couple of pieces of cotton string to hold them in place but whatever you got will work.
then wrap them light-proof in aluminum foil.
i used a snack-sized sandwich bag cut half-way down the side sides then pulled up over the foil and zipped shut. if you didn't cut too far the bag should seal pretty well around the limb. some folks use saran wrap.
give it about ten days and check it. it should be full of roots. cut off just below the roots and transplant.
i put these right into 7 gal containers and they just take off.
they don't even need a reduction in nutes as they have just come off a plant running in my case at around 850 ppm at .5.
use fresh wet rooter plugs. i bought i think the rapid rooter brand in the grow stores and they came moist in a bag.
these grow the whole time they are rooting as well so watch out!
I've read about air layering but never tried it myself. After reading this I think I'll give it a go when my plants get big enough. Thx
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