First grow ever

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Seems like you have things well in hand @Blackbeard. I agree with Uncle Rom, it would be a good idea to get them adjusted to nutrients before flip. I have also been reading some literature that says it is a good idea to start bloom nutrients about a week before flip to induce flowering. Remember, if your stretch gets too out of hand, you can always supercrop.

As far as pruning off fan leaves. I dont unless its so heavy that things are obstructing growth. With a couple of plants, you should be able to position them just fine to maximize light coverage. Light can and does penetrate through the leaves, and LEDS do this particularly well. So unless you are really packing plants in the tent, I would leave as many fan leaves as you can. My plants are much healthier since I started to chill out with my defoliation techniques.

Things are looking great man, well done.
 

Uncle Rom

Dirty Dirt Bandit
Seems like you have things well in hand @Blackbeard. I agree with Uncle Rom, it would be a good idea to get them adjusted to nutrients before flip. I have also been reading some literature that says it is a good idea to start bloom nutrients about a week before flip to induce flowering. Remember, if your stretch gets too out of hand, you can always supercrop.

As far as pruning off fan leaves. I dont unless its so heavy that things are obstructing growth. With a couple of plants, you should be able to position them just fine to maximize light coverage. Light can and does penetrate through the leaves, and LEDS do this particularly well. So unless you are really packing plants in the tent, I would leave as many fan leaves as you can. My plants are much healthier since I started to chill out with my defoliation techniques.

Things are looking great man, well done.
Agreed. Leaving plenty of leaves is the way. Just no leaves on top of other leaves and I personally remove the odd massive one covering a bunch of stuff having trouble getting at light in the first place. It’s funny, with some strains (usually sativa) I treasure every precious leaf cause it’s sparse, but with others (usually indicas) I’m plucking off buckets of foliage sometimes ?. It’s all very random. I follow the mantra~ Leave a couple, pluck one, leave a couple, pluck one..

one thing tho,
If I’m having pretty serious humidity issues late bloom when they are mad vulnerable to rot and mildew and all the nast, everybody gets stripped fairly naked just so I don’t have any air jus chillin anywhere. A ‘lose the battle to win the war’ type sitch.
✌️
 

Blackbeard

In Bloom
UPDATE
So I've been watering them every 2nd or 3rd day, feed 2 or 3 times then water. Swapped out the tall boy fan for a smaller one, I now realize that thing was too big. Added a trellis net to try to SCROG, but this net is hard to get everything where I want it. I think the holes are too big because some just can't reach that next row and the current row isn't really holding it back at all. Or it could completely be that I have never done this before. Either way I was able to manipulate the branches to get a pretty opened up even canopy, well I'm happy with it.

Changed the light schedule to 12/12 today, which is 55 days since I put seed in dirt. I can see pistils which makes me think they're ready, and if they are going to double in size it needs to start now.
Well here are some pics.
Aug 16
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Aug 20
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Aug 23, looking even enough for me ;-)
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-BB
 

Capt. C

Saltwater Cowboy
Staff member
Moderator

Blackbeard

In Bloom
UPDATE
Everything seems to be going well. 25 days in flower. Quick question, does everyone just throw the "sock" pre-filter that goes over the carbon filter canister, into the washing machine? Because mine got dirty and was restricting air flow so I took it off and I'm thinking about throwing it in the laundry. And I'm hoping this is the start of trichomes and not just some orderly clever WPM lol
2020-09-12
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2020-09-17
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-BB
 

Blackbeard

In Bloom
So I did a thing...

I didn't like the trellis netting from the start but stuck with it, but it is a super pain in the butt to really get in there and take a good look at everything. I raised the net up as it was secured to the corner poles with zip ties, I just slid it up. With no tension on the branches holding them down I figured I didn't need it and could remove it. Well now an hour or two later, the branches that were in the back are straight leaning over to the front.

I tried to tie one down to the pot but the branches are stiff now so they aren't moving much with a tug at the bottom. I unzipped the little side door to look at what I could do with the back and buds were falling out , hanging out.

So now my thin side branches aren't strong enough to hold up their tops. I wanted to be able to take them out of the tent when need be, like to look them over and when feeding them. It's becoming a pain in the butt to remove the runoff under the trellis netting. Now I'm afraid if I take them out, their branches are just going to hang down. I was thinking I could get some skinny bamboo or just wooden dowels and stake them into the pot in a way that would allow me to tie off branches up higher.

BTW, I'm planning my next grow differently, I'm thinking just top a couple times and go to flower and just play with the branches to strengthen them.

Suggestions? Today is day 32 of flower.
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-BB
 

Frimpong

🔥Freak Genetics🔥
So I did a thing...

I didn't like the trellis netting from the start but stuck with it, but it is a super pain in the butt to really get in there and take a good look at everything. I raised the net up as it was secured to the corner poles with zip ties, I just slid it up. With no tension on the branches holding them down I figured I didn't need it and could remove it. Well now an hour or two later, the branches that were in the back are straight leaning over to the front.

I tried to tie one down to the pot but the branches are stiff now so they aren't moving much with a tug at the bottom. I unzipped the little side door to look at what I could do with the back and buds were falling out , hanging out.

So now my thin side branches aren't strong enough to hold up their tops. I wanted to be able to take them out of the tent when need be, like to look them over and when feeding them. It's becoming a pain in the butt to remove the runoff under the trellis netting. Now I'm afraid if I take them out, their branches are just going to hang down. I was thinking I could get some skinny bamboo or just wooden dowels and stake them into the pot in a way that would allow me to tie off branches up higher.

BTW, I'm planning my next grow differently, I'm thinking just top a couple times and go to flower and just play with the branches to strengthen them.

Suggestions? Today is day 32 of flower.
View attachment 29326
View attachment 29327

-BB
Def grab some bamboo stakes . They are clutch. Ya the trellis is a bitch . For my setup anyways.. looks great btw!
 

Frimpong

🔥Freak Genetics🔥
Also don't be afraid to pluck off any fam leaves that are blocking bud sites. Now is a critical time for swelling . Once u put the stakes in you can tie down any branch u want . I'd try and spread the plants open a bit . Open her right up so that light can penetrate. Jmho hope this helps
 

Blackbeard

In Bloom
I should have never messed with it. I was just thinking "wow I haven't had any problems other than some fungus gnats". I had to go and create a problem. Are these buds going to stand back up? I actually think I have taken this grow down a few pegs with this change. If I was running at 100% they're now at 70%.

Doesn't matter how hard I try, I can't get them standing like they were. One I must have tied too tight cause it super cropped, so I tied it higher up. And after taking them out and back into the tent, getting all caught on each other, they're looking worse.

I'm hoping they will bounce back as they seem healthy (from what I can tell). Anyone have a time machine?

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Capt. C

Saltwater Cowboy
Staff member
Moderator
I should have never messed with it. I was just thinking "wow I haven't had any problems other than some fungus gnats". I had to go and create a problem. Are these buds going to stand back up? I actually think I have taken this grow down a few pegs with this change. If I was running at 100% they're now at 70%.

Doesn't matter how hard I try, I can't get them standing like they were. One I must have tied too tight cause it super cropped, so I tied it higher up. And after taking them out and back into the tent, getting all caught on each other, they're looking worse.

I'm hoping they will bounce back as they seem healthy (from what I can tell). Anyone have a time machine?

View attachment 29374
View attachment 29375
That is why i quit running the trellis netting so could take the plants out for inspection pruning and defoliating. They make some very convenient plastic clips for attaching the branches to the bamboo stakes. Sometimes you just have to bounce around to find the style that best fits your needs. @Blackbeard be careful pushing those bamboo stakes thru the root ball unless they were placed in there early on. I just push mine right down the side of the pot and i know that will not give you the angle you are looking for but it will not harm the roots. A established root ball can be pretty tough but not sure how many stakes it would take to affect the plant. I think you will be fine once you get everything supported and make sure to add silica to your line up if you are not already using it.
 

Blackbeard

In Bloom
That is why i quit running the trellis netting so could take the plants out for inspection pruning and defoliating. They make some very convenient plastic clips for attaching the branches to the bamboo stakes. Sometimes you just have to bounce around to find the style that best fits your needs. @Blackbeard be careful pushing those bamboo stakes thru the root ball unless they were placed in there early on. I just push mine right down the side of the pot and i know that will not give you the angle you are looking for but it will not harm the roots. A established root ball can be pretty tough but not sure how many stakes it would take to affect the plant. I think you will be fine once you get everything supported and make sure to add silica to your line up if you are not already using it.
I'm not adding anymore stakes, I put 3 in each, hopefully I didn't kill them. When they were seedlings I got in the mindset of they're delicate and never wanted to handle them too much. This next grow I'm going to be more hands on with them with hopes of strengthening them.

I am using the GH flora trio, and caliMagic. I don't see silica on the bottles. Silica is supposed to help strengthen the bond between cells or something?
A quick search about silica for plants says it can be a powder added to soil, liquid in water or a foliar spray. How should I be applying this?
Can you drop some knowledge on a newbie?

Thanks
 

LittleDabbie

Extract Artist (BHO)
I'm not adding anymore stakes, I put 3 in each, hopefully I didn't kill them. When they were seedlings I got in the mindset of they're delicate and never wanted to handle them too much. This next grow I'm going to be more hands on with them with hopes of strengthening them.

I am using the GH flora trio, and caliMagic. I don't see silica on the bottles. Silica is supposed to help strengthen the bond between cells or something?
A quick search about silica for plants says it can be a powder added to soil, liquid in water or a foliar spray. How should I be applying this?
Can you drop some knowledge on a newbie?

Thanks


Amazon product
 

Capt. C

Saltwater Cowboy
Staff member
Moderator
I'm not adding anymore stakes, I put 3 in each, hopefully I didn't kill them. When they were seedlings I got in the mindset of they're delicate and never wanted to handle them too much. This next grow I'm going to be more hands on with them with hopes of strengthening them.

I am using the GH flora trio, and caliMagic. I don't see silica on the bottles. Silica is supposed to help strengthen the bond between cells or something?
A quick search about silica for plants says it can be a powder added to soil, liquid in water or a foliar spray. How should I be applying this?
Can you drop some knowledge on a newbie?

Thanks
The following is a mouth full but well worth the read. Just be careful not to use it on very young plants and to late in flowering.

Thought i would post a read from @Phylex that goes into more depth about this chart. A MUST READ FOR ALL GROWERS.
WHY MODERN PLANT NUTRITION CREATES ANTAGONISM
Perhaps you’ve noticed that each of these core concepts touches on all the others. Plants are systems—intricate, delicate, and intertwined systems of biochemical reactions happening constantly within and around the plant.
Modern plant nutrition often called ‘NPK agriculture’, is based on the idea that if we add the major nutrients needed, plants will grow. Nature will always find a way to survive despite mistakes we may make, but that doesn’t mean that our plants are at optimal health.
NPK agriculture has shown us that this simplistic approach is not effective. Our crops are less nutritious, more susceptible to pests and disease, our soils are dead and infertile, and crop yields are decreasing around the world.
Perhaps the most important concept that can begin to fix this issue is the principle of nutrient antagonism. In a growing medium, nutrient molecules are constantly pushing and pulling at each other based on form and electrical charge. This ‘dance’ is fundamentally important to how well plants are able to take up and assimilate nutrients.
NPK agriculture doesn’t do a very good job of considering the balance of soil mineral contents and fertilizer inputs. Properly structured soil and balanced fertilizer programs help to balance the activity of nutrients and simulate natural environments.
Consider a virgin rainforest. The vastness and density of the vegetation are mind-boggling. The fruits and flowers are massive and incredibly flavorful. It’s also the most nutritious food found anywhere on earth. How this is possible without human interaction you wonder? It’s because nature has found ways to balance nutrients through microbial activity, natural soil remediation, and biological systems.
It’s impossible to fully replicate these intricate systems in isolated indoor (and many outdoor) environments. But we can learn from the biological rules and see many .of the same benefits.
OCHEMICAL SEQUENCING OF NUTRIENTS

It is important to understand that plants have a defined biological sequence of nutrient uptake. This starts with Boron, which stimulates the root system to leach sugars into the medium. These sugars feed the microbes, which transform silicates (Si) into silicic acid through a process called silicification. Silicic acid enhances Calcium uptake, fol- lowed by Organic Nitrogen (from L-Amino Acids), Magnesium, Phosphorus and Potassium.

These elements should be present in a bioavailable form to plants. If one nutrient in this sequence is not available (or less available), the uptake of all other elements in the sequence is more difficult or missed. It is very important to respect this sequence in order to avoid mineral deficiencies and/or nutrient uptake problems.

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A common nutrient problem in indoor gardening is Calcium deficiency. This is because Calcium is immobile, meaning it doesn’t naturally move into and throughout plant tissue. Also, Calcium is pushed away by other minerals that are often added in large quantities, such as Nitrogen (as Nitrates) and Potassium.

Looking at the chart above we can see that Calcium is near the beginning of the sequence. And if Calcium uptake is limited in any way then all other nutrients uptake and availability will be affected. There are many other problems with Calcium deficiency that will be discussed later.

One of the best ways to increase Calcium availability and uptake (other than chelating with amino acids) is to optimize Silicon levels in the form of Silicic Acid. This is the beginning part of the biochemical sequence. In most indoor applications, silicic acid is rarely available because of the time it takes soil micro-life to naturally convert silicon into silicic acid. Even if a grower is adding a silica supplement (not in silicic acid form), virtually all of the silica remains in the growing medium until it is converted, which can take many weeks to months for any meaningful conversion.

Adding bioavailable silicic acid, as in FaSilitor, helps to increase the uptake and availability of Calcium and thus, all other nutrients. This is the natural mechanism and is far more efficient than any synthetic method.

DIAGNOSING PLANT PROBLEMS

It’s good to know how to identify and fix problems in plants. Ultimately, it’s better to prevent problems by understanding the underlying cause.

By providing proper nutrition in proper sequence and amounts to your plants from the beginning, many of these problems can be avoided. It is always better to maintain a preventative methodology versus curative.

Most times when a plant appears sick, the growers quickly goes to the internet or a book to reference the leaf discoloration or other symptom. This may give them a variety of answers. The grower picks the most common and logical, purchases a ‘remedy’, and tries to fix the plant. This usually doesn’t work because the grower is asking the wrong question.

Typical question:

Why is my plant having this symptom and how do I fix it?

Better question:

Why is my plant having this symptom and how do I prevent it?

Unfortunately diagnosing plant problems is usually not as simple as observing leaf discoloration or growth patterns. Really these symptoms are just clues, not answers. Most of the time growers need to look deeper to assure proper diagnosis, treatment, and later prevention.

CALCIUM DEFICIENCY

A common ‘deficiency’ growers experience is calcium. Calcium is immobile and is dif- ficult for plants to uptake and transport. The grower sees a sign of calcium deficiency and immediately adds additional Ca/Mg supplementation. However, most times there is plenty of calcium already in the growing medium. The issue is not deficiency; the issue is bioavailability.

The root cause is the broken biochemical sequence. Perhaps boron or silicic acid is unavailable or locked out. By understanding this sequence growers can provide the correct solution that truly solves the problem and not just a temporary fix.

Combining the skill of diagnosing problems with the understanding of biochemical sequencing is the most effective way to accurately solve problems.

NITROGEN DEFICIENCY

Another often misdiagnosed deficiency is Nitrogen. This usually appears as a even yellowing of leaves, indicating slowed photosynthesis. A grower will quickly add more Nitrogen as an attempt to fix the problem. Sometimes this works but doesn’t always solve the real issue.

Nitrogen moves from the roots to the lower leaves. Then with the help of the enzyme nitrogenase, Nitrogen moves from the lower leaves to the upper leaves (new growth). Nitrogenase is stimulated by the presence of Molybdenum (Mo). If Molybdenum is deficient, this process is slowed and deficiencies may appear in the upper leaves.

If upper leaves are yellowing and lower mature leaves are still properly green (has proper N levels), then more likely there is a Molybdenum problem. In this case, adding more N may cause unwanted problems in the growing medium.

ANTAGONISTIC ACTION OF NUTRIENTS

It is very important to understand how certain nutrients react with each other. If you don’t understand these interactions, you may over-supplement with a specific nutrient in attempt to correct a deficiency.

Not all deficiencies are caused by a lack of nutrients! For example, Calcium deficiency may be diagnosed due to low Calcium levels OR because there are high levels of Nitrates (NO3). Nitrates ‘push’ Calcium away and can block absorption.

So you should use organic Nitrogen instead of inorganic Nitrogen, which is high in Nitrates. Many modern synthetic fertilizers contain primary Nitrates or other salt-based forms of nitrogen. The salts are the most common cause of tip burn, nutrient antago- nism, and weak plant growth (more on that later).

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The antagonistic action of nutrients shows how overdoses of certain elements can lock out or displace another element. This list shows which elements react with each other. Understanding nutrient antagonism makes diagnosing deficiencies and excess more difficult, but ultimately more accurate.
 

Capt. C

Saltwater Cowboy
Staff member
Moderator
OK. So being at 32 days into flower, would I use the Mild strength, Full strength, Maximum or Foliar spray? I'm thinking probably not the spray?
Thanks
Not really sure how much it would help this late in the cycle. I usually stop the usage after the 5th week of flowering. When you do start to use just mix in the silica first before anything else mix a little and add what ever else to the water. It will spike your PH up a lot and will need to be adjusted after adding everything else.
 
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Blackbeard

In Bloom
virtually all of the silica remains in the growing medium until it is converted, which can take many weeks to months for any meaningful conversion.
First off, thank you for posting that. Second, I agree, I don't think it would help me any at this point considering the above quote.

And not gonna lie, I did the typical newbie grower response and have the above Amazon link in my shopping cart. :ROFLMAO:
 

Frimpong

🔥Freak Genetics🔥
First off, thank you for posting that. Second, I agree, I don't think it would help me any at this point considering the above quote.

And not gonna lie, I did the typical newbie grower response and have the above Amazon link in my shopping cart. :ROFLMAO:
Hey there's nothing wrong with buying stuff and experimenting. That's how we all stumble upon our preferences.
 
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