Question How do I wire my Samsung Sun Boards Properly?

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
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Almost there guys. I am really just double checking to make sure the diagram I have is correct before I start wiring... all of the diagrams I have are for 6x or 4x setups.Thanks to @JL2G I know the numbers are correct. Just gotta get the electricity to flow properly now. In this case Would the HLG and the XLG driver be wired the same way if every thing else in the diagram is identical?

Side note: this plug needs to get clipped. Wire is at a minimum tonight so I would like to try and do this once :)
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Solution
Here's the pic I went and pulled from that other thread.
You'd just add another 3rd set of them for a total of 6 boards, installed in the same as the first two were wired.
15048a1.png
With the third set though you would not be able to max the leds out.
You'd be maxing the driver out first. Likely setting off the hiccup mode.
You'd want to dial the set screw for the internal pot back just shy of the drivers limits using a multimeter to do so. Or trial and error. Lol.
If wiring just the four boards you'd still want to dial the screw back as well just to limit what the driver can send to them, so as not to overpower the diodes. With proper cooling they'd probably even take the overpower. Lol

JL2G

Jesse Loves 2 Grow
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Q-36 Space Modulator
Thank you, would cutting down to six be optimal in your opinion? Max spread is nice but not needed in this case
Really depends on how you want to run them.
Run em soft with more of them, or run hard with less of them.
6 of them does put you at about half of their rated power.
If you're wanting to run em at the 1800 ma you can only fit 4 of them on that driver.
Could get another driver and do two four board lights, push em hard. Lol

This is for a veg light though isn't it?
 

Buzzer777

In Bloom
I’ve got one of these smart outlets. If I’m not mistaken... it should be similar...display is on my phone instead of the outlet... took a trip to harbor freight and got the rest of what I needed to get this project cleaned up...

View attachment 11652
View attachment 11653
Thought that those were just for turning things on and off? I use a few of them with my Google Home.
 

JL2G

Jesse Loves 2 Grow
Staff member
Moderator
Q-36 Space Modulator
No it’s only at like 60- 70 max ... that was after 10 min
This is what I'd do, follow at your own risk. lmfao.
Just messing, do it mang. lol

I'd get the dimmer installed if you haven't already.
Have it turned all the way down, and your phone kill a watt on also.
Crank up the driver internal set screw all the way and see what things read there.
Slowly turn the dimmer knob you installed up, and see what things read as you do so.
See if anything seems wonky. If all seems well proceed to next step.
That driver per specs should be sucking 2.7 amps, or 2700ma, and 239.6 watts from the wall if its running as rated max power.
May differ some from that per tolerances and efficiency.

Let it be on for at least 30 min minimum to get to full running temp, or until things get too hot, hiccup mode starts, something gets wonky, etc.
Take readings as things progress.
Any heat issues or hiccup mode comes on then turn down driver internal pot in small increments until heat, and or hiccup mode is alleviated. This will set the internal pot at the max it will run at, and stay trouble free.
Again, take readings from your meter as you do these adjustments.
The driver should now be dialed in perfectly to those leds.

I then run a new light full power for at least 24 hrs nonstop and see what happens. Make sure any issues show their ugly head before its in use and or being shipped to someone.
A light I made and shipped to Canada I let run solid for a couple of days and triple checked everything again. lol. Didn't wanna have a chance of paying shipping for warranty work from there. lmfao.

Then after all of the above you just adjust with dimmer pot knob for daily adjustments, plant heights, and such.
 

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
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Administrator
Moderator
This is what I'd do, follow at your own risk. lmfao.
Just messing, do it mang. lol

I'd get the dimmer installed if you haven't already.
Have it turned all the way down, and your phone kill a watt on also.
Crank up the driver internal set screw all the way and see what things read there.
Slowly turn the dimmer knob you installed up, and see what things read as you do so.
See if anything seems wonky. If all seems well proceed to next step.
That driver per specs should be sucking 2.7 amps, or 2700ma, and 239.6 watts from the wall if its running as rated max power.
May differ some from that per tolerances and efficiency.

Let it be on for at least 30 min minimum to get to full running temp, or until things get too hot, hiccup mode starts, something gets wonky, etc.
Take readings as things progress.
Any heat issues or hiccup mode comes on then turn down driver internal pot in small increments until heat, and or hiccup mode is alleviated. This will set the internal pot at the max it will run at, and stay trouble free.
Again, take readings from your meter as you do these adjustments.
The driver should now be dialed in perfectly to those leds.

I then run a new light full power for at least 24 hrs nonstop and see what happens. Make sure any issues show their ugly head before its in use and or being shipped to someone.
A light I made and shipped to Canada I let run solid for a couple of days and triple checked everything again. lol. Didn't wanna have a chance of paying shipping for warranty work from there. lmfao.

Then after all of the above you just adjust with dimmer pot knob for daily adjustments, plant heights, and such.

Copy That... Will get back in a few with some temps... I could set er up in another room for a bit. Still pondering how I am going to mount the heat sinks to the angle iron... Thank you though solid plan.
 

JL2G

Jesse Loves 2 Grow
Staff member
Moderator
Q-36 Space Modulator
Copy That... Will get back in a few with some temps... I could set er up in another room for a bit. Still pondering how I am going to mount the heat sinks to the angle iron... Thank you though solid plan.
I know there's a big cost difference in materials, but I'd personally use aluminum angle vs iron for the frame pcs.
Keep it all as light, lol, as possible.

Where I've mounted frames to heat sinks I've just drilled through the sink in a spot not taken up by the led and used rivets to lock things in place.
Screws will work as well, or small bolts and such. I just prefer rivets as they won't come loose, no threads to strip out.
Add a cross brace to keep things squared up, and lock them in all solid.
 

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
Staff member
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I know there's a big cost difference in materials, but I'd personally use aluminum angle vs iron for the frame pcs.
Keep it all as light, lol, as possible.

Where I've mounted frames to heat sinks I've just drilled through the sink in a spot not taken up by the led and used rivets to lock things in place.
Screws will work as well, or small bolts and such. I just prefer rivets as they won't come loose, no threads to strip out.
Add a cross brace to keep things squared up, and lock them in all solid.
das what I meant.. aluminum angle special lighty thingy.... I totally forgot he gave me a full kit to mount these things.. Im just blind and burnt out... neeeeddd more rosinnnnnnnn standby
 

JL2G

Jesse Loves 2 Grow
Staff member
Moderator
Q-36 Space Modulator
das what I meant.. aluminum angle special lighty thingy.... I totally forgot he gave me a full kit to mount these things.. Im just blind and burnt out... neeeeddd more rosinnnnnnnn standby
out of rosin, don't have a press yet, but the hash is good. Almost too good for the beer its mixed with atm. lol
Food may be in order soon. mmmmmmm
 

Deebs

The Sentient Naturewalker
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out of rosin, don't have a press yet, but the hash is good. Almost too good for the beer its mixed with atm. lol
Food may be in order soon. mmmmmmm
I hereby solemnly swear to squish the entire first plant vegged on this board.
Pick your poison, no labels, hand crafted. it's like a box of chocolates...except you know what your gonna get..:LOL: Quit wishin', get a press and start squishin'!
20200523_035818.jpg
 

Buzzer777

In Bloom
Here's the pic I went and pulled from that other thread.
You'd just add another 3rd set of them for a total of 6 boards, installed in the same as the first two were wired.
View attachment 11597
With the third set though you would not be able to max the leds out.
You'd be maxing the driver out first. Likely setting off the hiccup mode.
You'd want to dial the set screw for the internal pot back just shy of the drivers limits using a multimeter to do so. Or trial and error. Lol.
If wiring just the four boards you'd still want to dial the screw back as well just to limit what the driver can send to them, so as not to overpower the diodes. With proper cooling they'd probably even take the overpower. Lol
@JL2G
I wired up 2 of my strips like this picture. They didn't work. But when I removed the jumpers in the lower half, they both light up fine and function with the dimmer. TBH..I never understood why they were wired both in parallel and the jumpers in series. I haver other QBs..some in Parallel and some in series..but not both on the same boards. I will find my Kill-o-Watt and see what they are putting out.
 
Could get another driver and do two four board lights, push em hard. Lol

I think I saw a dimmer in one of @jaguarlax's pictures. If the money for another driver isn't a concern, I'd add the dimmer and set them up in the 4 board per driver configuration. 2 lights gives you more flexibility in coverage and the dimmers give you the option to drive them soft or hard ... depending on your needs.
 

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
@JL2G
I wired up 2 of my strips like this picture. They didn't work. But when I removed the jumpers in the lower half, they both light up fine and function with the dimmer. TBH..I never understood why they were wired both in parallel and the jumpers in series. I haver other QBs..some in Parallel and some in series..but not both on the same boards. I will find my Kill-o-Watt and see what they are putting out.

I just considered that you may not be running the same driver as me.... what model did he send @Buzzer777 ?




I think I saw a dimmer in one of @jaguarlax's pictures. If the money for another driver isn't a concern, I'd add the dimmer and set them up in the 4 board per driver configuration. 2 lights gives you more flexibility in coverage and the dimmers give you the option to drive them soft or hard ... depending on your needs.


@MichiganGrampa glad youre here, I am NOT the electrical savant...thats for sure....maybe you can shed some light
 
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