New one on me

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
So who's got experience with russet mites???

I’ve advised quite a few and gotten nothing but positive results if the growers followed through and also were committed . Key is once you have the products you can cement them in as your ipm and start from start-end a good ipm vs trying to defeat or defend once knowing your infected .

reason why I don’t endorse one product and just spraying one even if it has no “Resistance “ gain is because certain products attract/kill certain species of pest better or at certain stages of life . Plus as a biological defense they switch products like grandevo and venerate because it’s the terp( smell) that attracts them and it’s shown through trials that even like humans or anything . Bugs get bored of even their fav snack and will switch to other sources ( and that could be ur plant )


* If it was me I would get on a great IPM and focus the attack based on species/pest:

* knockouts
= before week 4 of bloom, all bio can be used till harvest. Apply all within 2days periods and once you see obvious “no bugs “ zone apply at 7-14 day rotational spraying .

1. conserve sc @3ml per gal ( highest rate )
Mixed with grandevo or venerate xc

key is why you use this vs other knockouts is you want the mass population to be struck by something that really fucks em up and also the biologicals will fucke m up and also make em slower and reproduce way slower.

2.
Mix ethier venerate xc or grandevo ( w/e you didn’t apply already as bio)
key why no knockout this time is many products gain resistance issues and can't be used more in the cycle before the the pest will not care about the pesticide .

3. spray greencleaner or lost coast plant therapy or flying skull Nuke em at highest dose.

= key why you want a diff 2nd knockout and use these kind as 2nd one is because what it will do is dry the pest out but also kill all stages very easily, con is stress to plants and also cost expense and like all knockouts you can't use them after 4th week of bloom. key is to wipe em out way before.

4. Go back to step 1 and rotate through steps inless too far in flower , if after 4th week only apply grandevo ( + pfr-97 if populations beyond entry levels) and venerate xc alone. best IPM protocol for flower stage. if pest aren't there after 6th/7th week of bloom to save cash I would stop applying everything to just save cash. if there is even a question of maybe pests or low levels and beyond = spray em every 2-7 days with a biological (Grandevo or venerate xc)

If infection is beyond normal entry level I would even buy a bag of PFR-97 and mix with grandevo every time your doing that mix . Fucks em up

another neglected factor is having a wetting agent , unless product already included one like greencleaner/stand alone pesticides ( I suggest yucca extract ) and having a sprayer or spraying protocol that if foliaring everything needs to be 100% sprayed . A good paint sprayer is perfect for such

As a side tip for biologicals :When buying grandevo and venerate the non “cg” versions are 30%+ cheaper than ch label . Why? Company had to spend all that cash to make a very label for cannabis . Ingredients wise and % , same stuff just diff label

make sure you invest in a good 100x scope just so you can id species of all pest and if you can determine which , email a legit big company and they will be able to figure what it is np


Biological products:

Switch every time inless a knockout isn’t allowed to be mixed with others. Explained above

knockout that can be used/mixed with Conserve® SC insect control


Knockout that are used alone

save ya shit tons of money and so much cheaper on green cleaner/misc simple based pesticides. I can make this but can’t make biological stuff like Grandevo. why buy something that's 90% water and you could have 10+ gallons for under 100 bucks vs 200-300 bucks a gallon? im good on canna tax ;)

"

green cleaner recipe:
48 oz.
10mL 90% iso alcohol
5ml Dr. Bronners Sals Suds
15mL Canola oil or neem and/or essential oils

1 gal.
30mL 90% iso alcohol
15ml Dr. Bronners Sals Suds

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Mammoth Biocontrol : haven't seen a exact recipe, just %, however I've never seen that great result so why use it?


5% Thyme Oil
90% Light corn oil
5% Liquid Lecithins (sunflower)
Shake well and use sticker/spreader like a non-ionic surfactant. Use at 3 oz. (90 ml)/gallon final dilution.


Flying Skull Nuke Em Clone

Distilled/RO water (50 ml)
Insecticidal Soap (also called Potassium Soap) (40 ml)
Yeast (fresh brewery yeast or dry yeast) (4 g)
Lemon Juice (2 ml)
Potassium Sorbate (2 g)
Sodium Benzoate (2 g)

Top up to 4 oz with distilled/RO water

Use 4 oz./gallon and agitate before and during use

Homemade Green Cleaner

0.5 gallon of RO water,
7-8 ml sal suds,

12-13 ml canola oil
14-15 ml iso alcohol
Top up with RO water to 1 gallon.

Lost Coast Plant Therapy

Water, distilled water, deionized water2-12%
Sodium Citrate≤2.5%
Soybean oil25-50%
Isopropyl alcohol-35%
Ppotassium salts of Fatty Acids-35%
Peppermint oil-≤2.5%
Citric Acid-≤2.5%

Cornell Dormant Oil

-2 tablespoons of ultrafine canola oil and 1 tablespoon of baking soda mixed with a gallon of water.
-Nourishing formula- 2 tablespoons of horticultural oil, 1 tablespoon of baking soda, 1 tablespoon of kelp and 1 tablespoon of mild dish soap mixed with 1 gallon of water.
-Recipe 3 contains 2 tablespoons of baking soda, 5 tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide, 2 tablespoons of castile soap — which is made from an olive oil base — and 1 gallon of water.

Build A Soil Foliar

Foliar Recipe #1: Neem Oil + Agsil16H 7.8% + Aloe Vera + Essential Oils (Use During Lights Out Only)
This is the go to IPM foliar spray for weekly use, but variations of this recipe can be used and will be listed below without all of the detailed explanations. If you are worried about all the recipes, then just use this one and you’ll be fine.
1 Gallon Clean Water (You can also use Botanical Tea for the water) 1 Tablespoon Neem Oil (Use Ahimsa Neem @ BuildASoil.com) 1-2 Teaspoons 7.8% Potassium Silicate Solution ½ - 1 Ounce of Essential Oils (Use different combinations and different oils each week) 1/4 Cup Pure Aloe Vera Juice (If using 200x Aloe Powder from BuildASoil.com add 1/8 Teaspoon per gallon)

Oils for for IPM Use: Rosemary, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Lemongrass, Thyme, Clove, Cinnamon, Peppermint etc. Directions for mixing:

The key is to get the Neem Oil Properly emulsified so that it sprays evenly or else this spray won’t be nearly as effective. Use warm water but not hot. (75-85 degrees) I like to add 1 cup of the gallon of water into a Protein Shaker cup with the round wire whisk ball for mixing but you can use a whisk and a regular cup, a blender or whatever you have on hand.

To this 1 cup of water I add my Aloe Vera Juice or powder and let sit until clear.

Then emulsify 1 Tablespoon of Neem oil using 1-2 teaspoons of 7.8% Potassium Silicate solution into the shaker cup with the warm water and Aloe Juice.

Add the emulsified neem/silica/aloe solution to the other 15 cups of water to make your full gallon of spray.

Add the essential oils of your choice and stir vigorously to keep the oil emulsified.

Spray the plant down using a sprayer with a wand like a Chapin model 1949. This type of sprayer will allow you to effectively coat your entire plant from bottom to top. Use the wand and work your way from the bottom to the top spraying the underside of every leaf and once done turn the wand over and spray the top of every leaf, completely saturating the canopy until the plant is weeping and ready to fall over from the weight of the foliar spray.

Make Sure to spray this just before or just after lights off as the neem oil and the essential oils will burn your plants if sprayed with lights on. Essential oils are especially reactive to light so be sure to spray at lights out… and not just a couple hours before lights on.

Dr Bronners And Essential Oils

Dr. Bronners Style Soap + Essential Oils
1 Gallon Clean Water
1 Ounce of Dr. Bronners Plain Soap
.5 – 1 Ounce of Essential Oils (Use half this amount if using a scented soap like peppermint or lavender)

"
 
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JL2G

Jesse Loves 2 Grow
Staff member
Moderator
Q-36 Space Modulator
How did this end up? We need a pest section here to help identify and kill (what works best). Im having some issues that look similar. I also have tiny orangish bugs in my veg area
I use spinosad but am thinking of going with benny bugs. No clue
Have you got some pics you can post up?
And there is a spot. It's the cannabis infirmary section. Post up a thread with pics there.
 
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Manidoo

In Bloom
So who's got experience with russet mites???

Many of us do, including myself. I've washed my hands of keeping track through the years of how many times I have had to dispatch every mite known to infest Cannabis and then some.

I responded earlier in and my phone didn't catch my calcium comment due to auto text and using the microphone. Iron/Calcium was my quote, and these work together in a synchronous way with the magnesium as well which is why Cal-mag almost always has Iron added to it.

Calcium definitely should be fed and not just one type. There's several types that you can add to the soil as well as use to supplement and foilar feed directly to the rhizosphere for immediate bioavailability. I love to use it all if I have plants struggling with Calcium deficiencies and it is more common than most people know. It's been predominantly seen as pH issues and nute splash or burn by the countless inexperienced and uneducated that just don't understand why and how Calcium deficiencies are so prevalent in a lot of soiless and soil grows.

Your definitely going to want to get it addressed quickly, what you initially saw was from weeks of this taking place which doesn't manifest itself immediately. Now it's like being 20 minutes late to get to the bus stop. But you can definitely drive that Bus yourself now and it will take a couple weeks to get things back to health.


On the notes of the Mites, including the super immune. Horticultural oil is a god send regardless of the many man made variations of pesticides natural or synthetic .. Nothing can build an immunity to oil, it just smoothers all insects when applied properly and regularly. Every insect has pores and through these oxygen is absorbed by the insects internally. If you seal those pores properly you're gonna choke out any insects that you cover in oils. I've never seen a bug I could not drown with oil suffocation.

BTW you might want to get some Hydrated Dolomite lime as well. Not sure what media you are in, but it's possible that you need to get some cations charged and your pH in the zone.

Best of luck with all..
 
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Manidoo

In Bloom
How did this end up? We need a pest section here to help identify and kill (what works best). Im having some issues that look similar. I also have tiny orangish bugs in my veg area
I use spinosad but am thinking of going with benny bugs. No clue

There's a lot of horrible guides online and it's often really hard for the newcomers to precisely diagnose by themselves accurately be it pest , toxicity or simple deficiencies.

Spinosad usually only works with a limited amount of the insects. Many of them are just naturally going to be immune to everything in Captain Jacks including the Spinosad.

With the description of the insect you described it's pretty much narrowing down the possiblity of it being identified. Just the other day I saw a 20+ year veteran that was stumped over what he assumed was a orange/red giant aphids. In actuality I had to let him know that these are just Boxelder nymphs and nothing else.
 
I'm assuming it was russets I had, iij never saw a mite only a bunch of eggs, i used cannacontrol,greencleaner, and my sulfur burner on a 3 day schedule for 12 days, no bugs at all on the afflicted plant, she was looking gorgeous before she germed, soon as the bug treatment was done she greened right back up so it definitely wasn't my soil or feed regimen, I figured they are never immune to being smothered and then the sulfur comes in and fumigated the whole place, so any mold or mildew or other nasties the sulfur works on also got waxxed
 

HydroRed

3Thirteen Seeds
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
I'm assuming it was russets I had, iij never saw a mite only a bunch of eggs, i used cannacontrol,greencleaner, and my sulfur burner on a 3 day schedule for 12 days, no bugs at all on the afflicted plant, she was looking gorgeous before she germed, soon as the bug treatment was done she greened right back up so it definitely wasn't my soil or feed regimen, I figured they are never immune to being smothered and then the sulfur comes in and fumigated the whole place, so any mold or mildew or other nasties the sulfur works on also got waxxed

Glad to hear you got it knocked back.
 
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