Pyrethrin

Fr3nzy

In Bloom
Had some entylia "keeled treehopper" on my sun flowers. So I went and bought a garden safe spray that's main chemical is pyrethrin. It worked very well only seen one or two on them since I have sprayed friday night. Is this pyrethrin safe to use on weed? I know it is made from the chrysanthemum but still not sure. I have read people say yes and people say no(not sure if this is a environmental thing)....any thoughts? Would be nice to add to the rotation.

Also does anybody know if these bugs are super detrimental or not? I had a couple on my pot plants last year but they was clustered on the sunflowers.
 
Solution
Had some entylia "keeled treehopper" on my sun flowers. So I went and bought a garden safe spray that's main chemical is pyrethrin. It worked very well only seen one or two on them since I have sprayed friday night. Is this pyrethrin safe to use on weed? I know it is made from the chrysanthemum but still not sure. I have read people say yes and people say no(not sure if this is a environmental thing)....any thoughts? Would be nice to add to the rotation.

Also does anybody know if these bugs are super detrimental or not? I had a couple on my pot plants last year but they was clustered on the sunflowers.
Yeah its safe for weed. It is in several products. Probably better to use in veg as opposed to flower but if used several weeks...

thenotsoesoteric

American Ninja
Had some entylia "keeled treehopper" on my sun flowers. So I went and bought a garden safe spray that's main chemical is pyrethrin. It worked very well only seen one or two on them since I have sprayed friday night. Is this pyrethrin safe to use on weed? I know it is made from the chrysanthemum but still not sure. I have read people say yes and people say no(not sure if this is a environmental thing)....any thoughts? Would be nice to add to the rotation.

Also does anybody know if these bugs are super detrimental or not? I had a couple on my pot plants last year but they was clustered on the sunflowers.
Yeah its safe for weed. It is in several products. Probably better to use in veg as opposed to flower but if used several weeks before harvest it should be all good.

The used to be a product called TR something "time released" it was a bug bomb type aerosol product with 4% pyrethium and that shit killed everything crawling on plants. I used it to destroy mites a couple times. But after the bed bug outbreak in like 2009 or 2010 it was banned at that 4% level.

The released it at .04% and it did nothing to mites at that level. Now you have to have pesticide applicators license to get it at those higher levels.
 
Solution

Fr3nzy

In Bloom
Yeah its safe for weed. It is in several products. Probably better to use in veg as opposed to flower but if used several weeks before harvest it should be all good.

The used to be a product called TR something "time released" it was a bug bomb type aerosol product with 4% pyrethium and that shit killed everything crawling on plants. I used it to destroy mites a couple times. But after the bed bug outbreak in like 2009 or 2010 it was banned at that 4% level.

The released it at .04% and it did nothing to mites at that level. Now you have to have pesticide applicators license to get it at those higher levels.
Awesome info there, my wifes cousin has worked as a exterminator for a few years now...might have a hook up lol. Thanks for the response, will add it to the rotation.
 

Lockedin

In Bloom
Pyerethrins are organic (Chrysanthemum based) and generally safe for use --- read labels and SDS - wear PPE
Permethrins are synthetic.
At applicator concentrations they have about a 20 day life - less so for the consumer version.

To prevent fungus gnats this grow I used:
Scanmask Nematodes --- I didn't see a single pest. Getting them again.

I had fungus gnats last grow and used:
Citric Acid / Dish Soap / water solution - "Finito" - Non-toxic, contact killer. Residual Soap affects flight & can block respiration.
Diatomaceous Earth - non-toxic POWDER (wear PPE). Microscopic shell fragments that are sharp and cut soil based bugs to pieces (a small silica boost to plants too)
Dry out the soil - made my plants beg a bit
 

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
use pyrethrum as a knockout.. but ;)

just don’t get it at a hydro /hardware store versions if it was my choice ( rip off )and don’t assume a bomb version one or two times will win…. Maybe temp get rid of em but there is reason why pest aren’t going anywhere no matter how bad or deadly they try to battle it. ipm of rational plan is the only way or asking for failure . Price per oz and % shows your wasting your cash , like spinosad. Buy 0.5% captain jacks vs conserve sc ( that knockout I woild also use in a rotation and can be combined with any biocontrols below ) and it’s 11.5% , I’m good on buying water like ferts


pyganic 5.0 is awesome product for pyrethrum but the labeling is what the same product, made by same manufacturer cost ya 3x+ in price to be “organic” vs same identical thing “non organics approved “ Always about that label, dont blame em when the labeling of proof is so damn expensive …​


evergreen 5.0 is 50 bucks vs same thing “ pyganic 5” and that’s over 150 bucks, same company just diff labeling lol ( the bug bombs that have this in it are 100% a waste per the dollar since its not a instant fix and look at % of concentrated and how often and limits per cycle, I’m good for 20-30 buck cans of bombs and way less on concentration ) can only be used before 3/4th week in flower of cannabis and only be applied less than 5 times in a season. I recommend using a non limited and non resistant based products ethier mixed in or rotated to make it so you can apply foliar sof your IPM to a broad against 150+ soft bodied every week.

Basic Ipm spray schedule
if no pest present: biocontrol #1 than 7-14 days biocontrol #2 than 7 days-14 days biocontrol ! And keep rotating weekly-14 days

if pest present : “knockout” that’s approved for pest of need or it won’t work + add biocontrol #1 or #2 if compatible (majority are) Than 3-7 days (apply days for pest hatching and needs to achieve sucess ) later apply ethier a diff “knockout” + biocontrol #2 or Just biocontrol ( remember many knockout pesticides or non biocontrols have a limit of times applied and can cause resistance aka producing super bugs )

if you see your pest problem going down or none found: the next spraying do only biocontrol ( you want as many of your knockout cycle limits on when you need it)

another big thing is inbetween your spray cycles and so forth, always inspect for new bugs issues and never assume, also cleanInless and healthy plants are one of the biggest factors to sucess with ipm and also very much neglected or half assed. A good suggestion for being able to scan is having a good 100x+ scope and scan multple plants and leafs

yes I use evergreen 5.0 every 2-3 weeks(outdoors )- till 3/4th week of bloom Inless seeing bugs and I switch to pure biocontrols ( Grandevo and venerate ) every week and rotate between them to make it not only guratee of way less populations could ever conquer your garden but you can’t gain resistance and aren't dangerous to you.

when people also mention don’t use it for the bee’s (pyrethrum and pyrethrin ) they are referring it’s so much fo a risk when your using non hand sprayers and speaying in mass amounts with misters/fogger or planes and if your only being very directive and using hand sprayer but also spraying when the bees won’t be there aka before sunset. there’s a differance than big ag where they are spraying fields and acres vs a small outdoor garden or greenhouse


the biocontrol won’t kill bees and is effective all the way till harvest and also is so safe you could drink it ( I wouldn’t suggest just a compare of how safe ) but is so effective Inless high population of bugs it can control anything soft bodied when many oils and more expensive things can’t truly control , just like pyrethrum . They have their uses and pyrethrum is wonderful for a safe knockout and more effective if being used with biocontrol and also having a game plan exp outdoors if being able to keep a ipm vs not doing anything .just like majoirty of issues, once the issue happens or you notice . It’s so much harder and prevention and having a good ipm is the way.

for the biocontrol brand I suggest, a good tip just like the evergreen, labeling makes it very expensive and when I looked at Grandevo and venerate labeling of the “ cg aka cannabis grade “ vs the tobacco,all veggies and fruit , there’s zero difference in whats I it and benefit to a non commerical it will save ya 30-50% on product , why waste the cash ? once doing the math per gallon of biocontrols mentioned above and evergreen As your knockout you will notice it’s way cheaper per gallon than a lot of oil based like azamax ( good luck with winning against with with that alone ) , yes they may look cheaper when you get a quart or gallon for under 50-100 bucks but if you do math and it can only do a few gallons vs the biocontrols I mentioned are pennies and another con of a lot of oils besides the resistance issues is a lot xan even stress your plant .


Biocontrols , can be combined or be rotated with many products and also can be sprayed all the way to harvest vs most cannnot be used in flower + no resistant issues and cheap per gallon, key is to rotate the biocontrol products every 7-14 days so they don’t become “bored”, reason is why even if you got a buffet of the same thing but you only had one choice, wouldn’t u want something new every once and awhile? the way Grandevo and venerate work is they are fermented fungi with differnet terps to attract the pest so they once eat it, they die



Abother knockout I def recommend over most oils is spinosad , favorite brand for me is def conserve sc, great shelf life and can be conbined with biocontrols and kills a broad range, when having two knockouts it def makes a more broad attack and you will have more times to apply if needed if pest occur.

 
Last edited:

Fr3nzy

In Bloom
use pyrethrum as a knockout.. but ;)

just don’t get it at a hydro /hardware store versions if it was my choice ( rip off )and don’t assume a bomb version one or two times will win…. Maybe temp get rid of em but there is reason why pest aren’t going anywhere no matter how bad or deadly they try to battle it. ipm of rational plan is the only way or asking for failure . Price per oz and % shows your wasting your cash , like spinosad. Buy 0.5% captain jacks vs conserve sc ( that knockout I woild also use in a rotation and can be combined with any biocontrols below ) and it’s 11.5% , I’m good on buying water like ferts


pyganic 5.0 is awesome product for pyrethrum but the labeling is what the same product, made by same manufacturer cost ya 3x+ in price to be “organic” vs same identical thing “non organics approved “ Always about that label, dont blame em when the labeling of proof is so damn expensive …​


evergreen 5.0 is 50 bucks vs same thing “ pyganic 5” and that’s over 150 bucks, same company just diff labeling lol ( the bug bombs that have this in it are 100% a waste per the dollar since its not a instant fix and look at % of concentrated and how often and limits per cycle, I’m good for 20-30 buck cans of bombs and way less on concentration ) can only be used before 3/4th week in flower of cannabis and only be applied less than 5 times in a season. I recommend using a non limited and non resistant based products ethier mixed in or rotated to make it so you can apply foliar sof your IPM to a broad against 150+ soft bodied every week.

Basic Ipm spray schedule
if no pest present: biocontrol #1 than 7-14 days biocontrol #2 than 7 days-14 days biocontrol ! And keep rotating weekly-14 days

if pest present : “knockout” that’s approved for pest of need or it won’t work + add biocontrol #1 or #2 if compatible (majority are) Than 3-7 days (apply days for pest hatching and needs to achieve sucess ) later apply ethier a diff “knockout” + biocontrol #2 or Just biocontrol ( remember many knockout pesticides or non biocontrols have a limit of times applied and can cause resistance aka producing super bugs )

if you see your pest problem going down or none found: the next spraying do only biocontrol ( you want as many of your knockout cycle limits on when you need it)

another big thing is inbetween your spray cycles and so forth, always inspect for new bugs issues and never assume, also cleanInless and healthy plants are one of the biggest factors to sucess with ipm and also very much neglected or half assed. A good suggestion for being able to scan is having a good 100x+ scope and scan multple plants and leafs

yes I use evergreen 5.0 every 2-3 weeks(outdoors )- till 3/4th week of bloom Inless seeing bugs and I switch to pure biocontrols ( Grandevo and venerate ) every week and rotate between them to make it not only guratee of way less populations could ever conquer your garden but you can’t gain resistance and aren't dangerous to you.

when people also mention don’t use it for the bee’s (pyrethrum and pyrethrin ) they are referring it’s so much fo a risk when your using non hand sprayers and speaying in mass amounts with misters/fogger or planes and if your only being very directive and using hand sprayer but also spraying when the bees won’t be there aka before sunset. there’s a differance than big ag where they are spraying fields and acres vs a small outdoor garden or greenhouse


the biocontrol won’t kill bees and is effective all the way till harvest and also is so safe you could drink it ( I wouldn’t suggest just a compare of how safe ) but is so effective Inless high population of bugs it can control anything soft bodied when many oils and more expensive things can’t truly control , just like pyrethrum . They have their uses and pyrethrum is wonderful for a safe knockout and more effective if being used with biocontrol and also having a game plan exp outdoors if being able to keep a ipm vs not doing anything .just like majoirty of issues, once the issue happens or you notice . It’s so much harder and prevention and having a good ipm is the way.

for the biocontrol brand I suggest, a good tip just like the evergreen, labeling makes it very expensive and when I looked at Grandevo and venerate labeling of the “ cg aka cannabis grade “ vs the tobacco,all veggies and fruit , there’s zero difference in whats I it and benefit to a non commerical it will save ya 30-50% on product , why waste the cash ? once doing the math per gallon of biocontrols mentioned above and evergreen As your knockout you will notice it’s way cheaper per gallon than a lot of oil based like azamax ( good luck with winning against with with that alone ) , yes they may look cheaper when you get a quart or gallon for under 50-100 bucks but if you do math and it can only do a few gallons vs the biocontrols I mentioned are pennies and another con of a lot of oils besides the resistance issues is a lot xan even stress your plant .


Biocontrols , can be combined or be rotated with many products and also can be sprayed all the way to harvest vs most cannnot be used in flower + no resistant issues and cheap per gallon, key is to rotate the biocontrol products every 7-14 days so they don’t become “bored”, reason is why even if you got a buffet of the same thing but you only had one choice, wouldn’t u want something new every once and awhile? the way Grandevo and venerate work is they are fermented fungi with differnet terps to attract the pest so they once eat it, they die



Abother knockout I def recommend over most oils is spinosad , favorite brand for me is def conserve sc, great shelf life and can be conbined with biocontrols and kills a broad range, when having two knockouts it def makes a more broad attack and you will have more times to apply if needed if pest occur.

Awesome post there man. I have been using captain Jack's spinosad but not against switching if it's better and more cost effective. Just dont want to end up like last year smashing aphids every morning lol. Will be orsering all three of these up this week. Thanks again for your time.
 
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