Reducing temp in flower with lighting

OldG

Elite Hobbyist
Whilst on my dog walk yesterday ripping a fine doob, and pondering how fast that outdoor starfighter is ripening.
Caused by reduction in temp and an ever decreasing light timer in the on position (daylight hours shrinking)

If you could control the enviroment completely do you think indoor plants would ripen faster IF
You gradually reduced temp...maybe 3 degrees a week or a degree a day
You gradually reduced light hours...by 15 minutes a week from 12 12 start.

Do you think the cold is doing it too or its JUST the reducing hours?

I only need 30 more timers to try it :D
 

Capt's Farm

CHOOSE YOUR TITLE
Don't forget about the lower light's and rays that the plant gets from the sun..

Indoors we hit the plant at full light the minute the light's come on.
There's no wakeup up time, it's balls to the walls.....

We need dimmers that will take 30 mins or so to come up to full light's and the same for light's off...
 

OldG

Elite Hobbyist
Don't forget about the lower light's and rays that the plant gets from the sun..

Indoors we hit the plant at full light the minute the light's come on.
There's no wakeup up time, it's balls to the walls.....

We need dimmers that will take 30 mins or so to come up to full light's and the same for light's off...
i can add an emerson effect to try it to..i have a light for that.

8 week landrace sativas say WHAT ???? LOL
 

Skunky Dunk Farms

Cannabinoid Receptor
I used to play around with lighting more than i do now back when i ran hid's.
Here is a copy and paste from my journal of how i played with my environment. It took 4 timers, caused the temps to fluctuate and produced amazing results!
Actually do want to do it again soon.


"So let me give a run down of my previous methods.
I finished my last run in December under HID's.
My room is 9x13, i use Smart Pot 6' long bags for my container which holds 93 gallons of soil (8 bags).
I run a Light Rail 3.5 over my canopy which is 3x6+.
I have a pair of Magnum XXXL 6 reflectors with an additional socket installed perpendicular to the other one so i can run 2 bulbs in each one.
I run a 600 HPS and a 600 MH conversion bulb in each reflector.
I start my beans under a 6x4' T5HO fixture for a couple weeks, bring them in the big room and run 24/7 under MH for a couple weeks and then add the HPSs to the mix and run untill end of veg, minimum 9 weeks usualy longer.
Then turn back to 12 hour days under all 4 for 3 weeks.
Then going into the 4th week i start with the 2 HPS at "sun up" for 2 hours then turn on 1 MH for 4 1/2 hours then off then the other one for 4 1/2 hours then off untill "sunset". This may sound like less light at the end but it sure works well.
Ive only used guano teas exclusively with a little fulvic, humic and kelp and micro blast

Last harvest was average, 49 ozs. From 5 girls.

Can i get close with these LED's?
Time will tell,,,,
 

Buzzer777

In Bloom
Don't forget about the lower light's and rays that the plant gets from the sun..

Indoors we hit the plant at full light the minute the light's come on.
There's no wakeup up time, it's balls to the walls.....

We need dimmers that will take 30 mins or so to come up to full light's and the same for light's off...
You can use a far red light to awaken them before the high power ones come on. You can also use the far red light to put them to sleep by leaving it on for about 15 minutes after lights out. With certain strains it reduces flowering time by almost a week. With other strains, not so much.
 

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
They don't have an app for that yet lol.
Raspberry Pi anyone.
Trolmaster and Thinkgrow lighting combos actually just released a Sunrise/Sunset setting built into their controllers.

They are doing some pretty dope stuff over there


 

Jewels

Tilts at Tables
Do you think the cold is doing it too or its JUST the reducing hours?

For w'a is worth,,,

During my two litre coffee bag phase/craze, I conducted a similar casual experiment.

Twas winter. Every day when I put out the lights I would turn on the heater. I too wondered if cooler temperatures would ripen a plant faster.
To satisfy my curiosity I selected a plant, and repositioned her to live near the door.
All the plants, with that singular exception, would spend 'lights off' in the warm tent.
Every night I would pull that plant out of the tent and it would spend the darkness in the unheated garage. It was on the same light cycle as the other plants but it was spending nights between 5 and 10 Celsius, as opposed to the 20+ Celsius environment inside the tent.
Yes, there was bias from jump. I mostly wanted some weed to smoke ? I tried to select the one that would finish first (without intervention) As such , I was cold shouldering my most mature plant.
When I started the routine I selected the only plant that was showing a hint of non-clear chomes.
Every night I diligently per her out in the cold.
It seemed to me that the garden continued to mature at the normal rate, whereas the plant that was getting the cold treatment seemed to stop in her tracks. It no longer took water, and it did not progress to amber.
It got to the point where I was harvesting her siblings while she remained unfinished.

Dude , this was certainly not a proper scientific experiment. It's not like I had a hundred clones ,,,
or had I had a proper control group ,,,
,,,or any accurate data collection

Observation #2
End of days

Some of you have heard me use the term "Cold Storage" before.
( I am so awakenbaked I'm struggling to explain this in a coherent fashion)
on day 63 I noticed a couple of plants are done and I put them into Cold Storage.
On day 72 I noticed a couple of plants are done and I put them into Cold Storage.
On day 77 I noticed some plants are done and I put them into Cold Storage.
On day 85 I noticed some plants are done and I put them into Cold Storage,,,
I dont water them
they dont get light
3-7 °C 60%RH

now I invite you over to my cold storage room.
I ask you to tell me "which plants I put in there 2 weeks ago , and which plants I put in there yesterday? "

It honestly is very hard to spot a difference. As long as they go in there with some moisture in the soil and as long as they are not denatured by freezing, they will just hang out - indefinitely.

just about ready to submit my final answer here.

Maturation is a metabolic process. The RATE of any planty process has a pre-requisite temperature.

Really,,,
We need the wisdom of a seasoned outdoor grower or a good old conventional farmer.
I would ask them,,

"If the end of your growing season is unseasonably cool, do you have trouble getting your crops to mature?"

Could a wheat farmer or a berry farmer answer these questions?
 

Capt's Farm

CHOOSE YOUR TITLE
Trolmaster and Thinkgrow lighting combos actually just released a Sunrise/Sunset setting built into their controllers.

They are doing some pretty dope stuff over there


Now we're getting somewhere
 

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
to answer your main reason, does colder temps make better product
yes and no
yes the plant if given the lower time of lights on to 10 or 11 vs 12/12 and also lower temps and ppfd. Plants do know they are end of season besides age. Many growers push too much nutes or too much ppfd and it’s one main reason you get abnormal growth or stress that not favored by the grower. If you have unstable environments or too much of anything or the plant is sickly or untested genetics. All of those things can result in not what was previous found or what the breeder states will be the harvest date. Always check based on ur favored color of trich. For myself I’m in the 1-5% amber with 30-50% cloudy zone

if your outdoors and ur temps become cold and vpd is out of whack or it rains for days and days or cloudy and what not. This is as if u didn’t have lights or one out of w/e and made it so your plants are not intaking such but also if it’s cold u lockout many nutes too. yes they may look preety purple on non purple pheno’s but that’s also a plant becoming a zombie and I wouldn’t expect it to produce that much vs not that action happening.

for leds grows what I would do is
run your lights at night like 7pm on-7am off
reason it’s warmer in the day so you might as well get most efficiently from not letting ur heater have to run top much
run your room at 83-86f (canopy leaf temp) follow VPD at 0.9-1.2 ,co2 veg 700-900ppm, flower week 1-6th week bloom 900-1500ppm, follow ur nutes based on Co2
your Co2 and intake is also based and increased based on the temp, ppfd of lights % and Co2

so at last 2-3 weeks before harvest lower your ppfd, nutes, Co2 & temp ( 70-78f max, last week I even like to stay under 70f)
thus following vpd with lower temps u need a lower rh to be in that range.

if wanting a cheap method of “freebie a/c” use a inline fan + ducting and hepa filter if u can on end (outdoors) and have it turn on when it gets above desired temp. Winter air is a treasure in the north for freebie a/c and also keeping a drying/cure at cool temps witjout a/c or fridge.


the higher temps through cycle for led’s and higher ppfd has its advantages, less dehumidifier demand since higher temp and higher rh, but also when lights are off you have a 12 hour window where it’s 10 degree warmer when on , this when temps drop you won’t even have to have a heater Inless super cold or not sealed ( I even set my a/c to turn to heater and turn on when it hits 70f and it barely ever does)

when I did de’s/hps and I had to be in the 75-78f canopy range it was def harder to lower rh, keep room warm when lights are off and also cool it when not winter .

for ppfd demands, 350-450 ppfd in veg, flower raise from 450-950/1000 in all ranges of square . Meaning if u don’t have strips the key just like a j[s is to over lap ur lights to make it even 900-1000 at max. Too many think just because it says 1,100-1300 ppfd means it does that in full 4x4. Many are talking the core or having it too close to the plant. If you don’t have a meter , use this free and useful app that e en hlg recommends ( follow their instructions m like having a paper over the camera so it sensing it correctly .it’s call Photone , both apple and Android are supported


‎Photone - Grow Light Meter


 
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I’ve monkeyed and toyed with this the last year. I have 2 supplemental strips I’d turn on 15-30 minutes before my main LED would come on and then they would stay on after for the same time. Last couple weeks of flower I drop to 10/14 lighting schedule and raise my lights 6-12”.

After listening to a podcast recently, Rasta Jeff from Irie Genetics does something actually completely different…last couple weeks he ramps up his lighting to 18/6 or more. Chopping them before plants show any signs of reveg.

I have yet to try and see if the added light fattens my buds.

edit: just realizing post was more about temps, not lighting.
 
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