ROOT APHIDS

Bustenbeans14

In Bloom
If anyone has had to deal with this devilish pest and has won/lost or is still battling please drop some information and what has worked or even slowed them down.any information is greatly appreciated.

Iv been dealing with this pest for about a year shut down for 4 months cleaned everything and thought I was good..well a few week’s into VEG and I literally watched the population explode these PEST don’t Fucken die.

Edit:IV done hours and hours and reading old forum post and there seem to be a common issue they won’t DIE!!
 

DopeDaniel

Taste The Spectrum
IPM Forum Moderator
Root Aphid:




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"Root aphid identification in cannabis only gets harder because of the fact that these pests can camouflage themselves to match the color of the roots they’re feeding off. Typically, root aphid cannabis varieties range in color from white to brown. However, if you can’t identify root aphids with the naked eye or catch them quickly enough with yellow sticky tape, we’ll cover how root aphids symptoms appear in your plants next so that you know what action to take."

"Root aphids are damaging pests to indoor crops and are responsible for reduced plant vigor, increased incidence of plant disease and substantial crop losses in indoor and outdoor cultivation. Most common in container plantings, early detection and treatment is highly recommended for root aphids. Infestations of root aphids inhibit plant growth and they will not reach their mature size. Often mistaken for nutrient deficiencies, the damage they cause shows up as yellowing withered leaves and reduced plant vigor, and they have a severe effect on the fruiting ability of plants if left untreated. In addition to the direct effects of root aphids, their damage leaves plants vulnerable to pathogenic diseases. Flowering and fruiting plants' growth will be underdeveloped and less than optimal in quality."

"

"The primary root aphid (Pemphigus species) overwinters as eggs and infests plants in the spring and fall. Root aphids may be misidentified as mealybugs because they are covered with white wax although they are smaller than mealybugs. Root aphids have reduced cornicles that resemble rings, which are located on the end of the abdomen. These cornicles can be seen when magnified."

Signs of Root Aphid Invasion​

The symptoms of root aphids have infested your cannabis plants can be, the plants will start to have yellowing leaves and appear to have stunted growth. It can resemble a magnesium deficiency.

! Make sure your plant is getting enough magnesium.

Another sign is you may notice them crawling around the top of the soil or on some of the bottom leaves.

Cause of Root Aphids in Cannabis Plants​

The main reason why you may have aphids can be due to many factors.

  • Bringing outside plants in from stores or gardens to your house
  • Over-watering your plants can lead to a more suitable environment for the root aphids to lay their eggs,
  • Soil purchased that is mass produced can possible harbor some the aphids from the beginning, and you may never know until it is too late.
  • Not taking care of your hydroponic system, with rock wool and coco coir on upkeep and maintenance.
  • By going unchecked, they can all of a sudden spring out of nowhere"


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IPM for infected or known RA issued zones :

Capulator gave me this advice for RA infections/IPM years ago and it works when i've seen other products tried against RA and it def wasn't effective. even with 100% exposure.


This "knockout" IPM is for if infected or know from previous round or a serious issue in your region that you need a good ipm for RA ( like many pest)


Weekly Drenches combine as IPM Bio-control PFR-97+Grandevo+Botanigard 22 wp all together, if pest population add "knockout" with it and follow manual on the limits and timing ( majority of knockouts can't be used multi times in season + other limitations ) .


You may ask why shouldn’t I just add knockout by itself or just that , I have seen info on ra where it says u can use sand like FG but good luck... RA suck? wish the answer was one easy answer and product to end all, but that’s not the case and won’t ever be. Key is not using dangerous and stuff that is obviously pro motive of allowing pest to gain that resistant gain.
like many tradional and many defenses , they have flaws of pest becoming resistance gain but also promoting breeding of “super pest”, which is another reason why if you trade clones know the growers IPM and defenses if you can .

you also may question why spend all this cash? Even if small crop RA untreated can and has been proven to hurt cannabis yields by 30%-50%+ and also makes your next round just as bad and very good chance exp in a lot of regions like many pests. You prolly gonnea have it again and the key like many pest is to have a IPM viewpoint of these issues will be there and if you can have it controlled. Those products will save you that and than some. for me , IPM is something Im willing to invest vs some fancy bottled nutes exp for pest issues I know that can’t be avoided .
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basic Biocontrols info:

Grandevo :
Grandevo WDG contains several active compounds (heated fungus) that repel, stop feeding, reduce reproduction and induce mortality to prevent the development of damaging populations
+
Botanigard 22 wp: "spores infect directly through the outside of the insect’s cuticle (the skin)." for RA this product is a must!
+
PFR-97 = amazing biocontrol for so many pest but if you are cost limited or home grower, skip pfr-97 and buy rest and you should be able to defend and have a good crop. this is omly product also that has to be in the fridge for good shelf life. if this is commercial or a big part of ur life, def worth it and great IPm tool

another additional tool for ur biocontrols is MET52, IT JUST is out of stock ....
* MET 52 = costly but super effective and another Tool if RA present.

The key is 100% saturation and have this defense 100% in the medium for 3o minutes-1hr vs drenching only. to get 100% saturation I suggest this method vs dunking and holding the pot cause even if 1 pot I could see it not accomplishable. this method not only is easy to accomplish but def can make any medium based pest defeated if process done correctly and not too big of a infection to start against.

Step 1. have a plant pot tray under each pot

Step 2. pre water/feed ur pots till right before run off point . This saves you 75% of need for over use of your biocontrol, if you didnt do that previous step doing this daily ad a ipm and large scale would be very costly, best tip is very that and not having to hold a pot for 30minutes min in a bucket for that effect ( I’ve seen many as their instructions and that would suck even with 1 pot)

Step 3. than feed in the biocontrol (pfr-97 + grandevo + botaniguard 22 wp) till 5-10% run off, let this run off sit for at least 3o min-1hr ( this guratees full saturation ) In order to kill the colony = do this every 7 days and make sure it’s a fully saturated and 30 min-1hr soak. RA don’t fuck around

If pest shows any colony rotate with "knockout"+biocontrols combined ( same method aka 30 min-1hr fully saturated soak )

for a suggestion products of the "knockout" =
key is to have diversity and use only 1 knockout each drench with biocontrol in defense and biocontrols for the win vs single product defenses or using all knockout outs at once . all these listed as knockouts are good products but need multi to work on a bad infection.

* evergreen 5.0 = "Made from botanically-derived active ingredient Pyrethrin" = very safe but also effective on so many pest
EverGreen® Pyrethrum Concentrate For Organic Production | MGK® = 2x+ cheaper than same as company labeled bottle aka Pyganic 5.0

* Spinosad (conserve sc is brand I suggest and 2x cheaper than same company organic version aka entrust sc)

* Molt-X = "Molt-X is not neem oil and has not fungicidal effects. Molt-X has multiple modes of action as a feeding inhibitor, insect growth regulator (IGR) and pest repellent. This triple action"
great ISR and multi function , like PFR-97 ( if u have repeatiove issues and known pressures, 3rd option is key but if small infections . trial without would be my suggestion and see if u have a stable IPM and resistance defense.


^
if your pest colony goes away, only use biocontrols and even use just 1 of them to save cash if there's no evidence of pest for a good IPM for them. But if pest are still present keep all products going but also assume they are hiding too. RA are a bitch that way and def shouldn't be assumed u won.

"
The root aphid is asexual meaning they always reproduce female offspring. The aphid can produce up to 60 -100 nymphs in 20 to 30 days.

Or in anywhere from 7- 10 days"


* Another Aid/defense to stopping a population is using Nematodes, just apply 1-3 days after ur biocontrol drench/tea.
"interrupts root aphid reproductions cycles – slowing population growth and controlling them over time. Nematodes will also help spread B. bassiana spores in the soil after a BotaniGard treatment."


good general info:

Personally I have not knowingly had them I use botanigard and grandevo regularly tho.

Check the link, last I saw (about a year ago) met52 was unavailable.
 

VAHomegrown

In Bloom
@BH and @SSGrower are true experts on the subject and you won't find better advice anywhere.
- I was battling various bugs for quite sometime and still get hit somtimes, but the infestation is usually easily treated and short lived. I'm a small pot soil grower fwiw. I don't use any pesticide sprays, other than foliar ewc in veg.
•Adding Insect frass as a light top dressing, every 2 weeks. Bat guano also seems to work in the same manner. Bugs don't do well living or breeding in their own shit. Lots of EWC mixed in the top of the medium with a little peat or compost and covered with mulch, helps as well. - If I lift the mulch layer and can see some of the bits of EWC are looking moldy and breaking down, I typcially won't have any outbreaks.
•Strong fans blowing over the canopy and from below. Over lapping, moving fans make it hard for the bugs to cling to a surface for any length of time. If you get them used to a strong breeze in early veg, you can really push them in flower.
•UV-B tube- Possible bro science as far as bugs are concerned, but they move from the leaf surface once the light is triggered. I've read that it can scatters their brain at high intensity. If I do run into bug problems it's usually in my tent without the UV-B tubes.
•A 1" layer of perlite on the bottom of the pots helps with drainage, and seems to help cut down on root pests by allowing drainage and a proper, wet/dry cycle.
 
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BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
Always Pest id, if root aphids please follow my guide if u want to kill em. ive saved a few gardens from RA with this method. the key is the 30min-hr medium saturation . Read my guide and it will make sense!

 

Gentlemancorpse

Cannabis Chaotician
Staff member
Moderator
This is far from a solution but worked as a bit of a band aid for me. Cut up a potato and put it cut side down on the soil. The aphids will eat into the potato. Toss the potato and add a new one every couple days. You can see if theyre eating the potato or not. Helped me get the population down to where I could finish the plants. But then I just scrubbed everything and they never came back.

Ill tell you what didnt work too. Athena Root Drench. Made zero impact on then.
 

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
Thank you ALL for your quick response.Monday is the next time I’ll be able to get in there and give @BH method a shot I’ll report back asap I’ll drop some pictures of the RA and plants before and after this treatment.



Not arguing with you and hope for the best it’s just please don’t review based on quick death or thinking it will kill exp something like RA to be easy or one time application….you can’t expect like many pest if your in battle mode or medium-high populations to expect a quick death or win, it takes proper IPM and expecting u have to use ipm at least weekly even non high pest pressure to achieve such, expecting a instant fix if u have a steroids issue is never going to work and this is also why people think they don’t work A lot of the time. Shoot even a lot of the most deangerous miticides/pesticides def won’t kill the pest instantly, key is to know the mode of action , how it functions and limits per cycle.

article I made explains everything but also expect this RA to be there next round , using a proper ipm and treatment based on pest pressure is only way to win this and also will save you your crop and major headaches. like many pest RA def will and can inpact your crop yeilds and quality so killing as many even if u can’t eliminate all this cycle will def save a lot of your yields. I know a person I helped who they had a horrible infection mid flower and it def eliminated 90%+ and also saved his crop.
 
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webeblzr

In Bloom
They offer very good products. They have a lot of great information for those of us like to read.
Wish your garden all the best.
 

Luposolitario

In Bloom
and like a trench warfare, if you want to win immediately you risk destroying everything and losing, you have to make their life and reproduce difficult, however if they have returned there are not many arcane reasons. 1 the grow room was not clean / sterilized, do you have more grow rooms or some adult insect found a small place outside the tent and laid eggs that came out with the heat, 3 you used the same substrate and it contained eggs, I can tell you that since the last vase and half poisonous harvest, I have cleaned everything with both insecticide and industrial disinfectant, after twice this passage in and out of the surrounding areas I have only used sub controlled and occasionally used a plant strengthener / repellent to be sprayed periodically to prevent infestations, I have to say that maximum saw some miners but disappeared by themselves and some fruit flies but they die in a short time, it is obvious that if you have a plant full of devils the best option is an immersion in 3 times the volume of the pot, a few seconds , in a tpo solution for 30 liters of water 10 ml of nem oil, but we all know that these are feasible options with small plants and before 2 weeks ana di bloom, after that date you can limit the damages but you can't win anymore.
 
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