Russet/Broad Mites & Cyclamen Mites INFO & IPM

Status
Not open for further replies.

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
Broad Mites & Cyclamen Mites :
diagnosing hemp russet mite

"Broad and Cyclamen Mites are tiny arachnids (<0.2 mm in length) that are common pests of strawberries, African violet, ivy and more. Distributed worldwide, broad and cyclamen mites have become major pests to a range of commercial crops and have proven difficult to control. Much of the difficulty in controlling them stems from their minute size and how difficult they are to successfully identify. Use a minimum magnification of a 10x loupe or magnifying glass to get a better look!

Identification & Life Cycle:

  • Eggs – Elliptical in shape, transluscent and colorless and laid in clusters with white tufts covering the tops.
  • Larvae (1st Instar) – Generally slow moving with a whitish appearance, young cyclamen and broad mites have three pairs of legs and can be 0.1-0.2 mm long. This stage lasts one day.
  • Nymph (2nd & 3rd Instar) – Clear and pointed at both ends, nymphs are generally found in depressions on fruit and females can be carried by males. Usually lasts one day.
  • Adult – Males are oval shaped and short with long, thin legs. Females are also oval shaped, but more swollen than the adult males. Males live for 5-9 days while females live for 8-13 days. Females will lay approximately 5 eggs per day (30-75 eggs in a lifetime), which can be found on the undersides of leaves and on small fruit. Most dispersal occurs through males carrying female larvae to new leaves and plants, but there is evidence showing other insects like whiteflies carrying mites from plant to plant. In outdoor settings, adults will often be found on shaded areas of the plant making them harder to spot.
Damage Symptoms:

Broad and cyclamen mites have a wide host range and are most prevalent in tropical regions, but are found in greenhouses in more temperate regions. These mite species are widespread and a major pest of both commercial and ornamental crops. They prefer feeding on new growth causing it to twist and harden. Leaves will turn downward and discolor while blooms may abort in the presence of larger mite populations. Streaking on foliage may be evident with flowers becoming deformed and/or reduced in number. Developing fruit will discolor and premature fruit drop can also occur.

"

Russet Mite General info :
"
Russet Mites, along with Hemp Russet Mites, are some of the most damaging and difficult to control pests affecting growers today. Many species are host-specific and prefer monocultured growing areas (tomato growers in particular). Hard to spot and quick to reproduce, russet mites do not produce the noticeable webbing that identifies spider mites. Members of the Eriophyidae family of mites, they typically move in without being noticed and can build a large population before damage symptoms are evident. Their minute size allows them to hitch rides to new areas on clothing, in removed debris and even on other pest insects like whiteflies and aphids making sanitation imperative in infested areas. Warm, dry, windless conditions encourage mite populations to grow more rapidly, but they will target plant growth where conditions provide shelter and humidity.

Life Cycle & Appearance:

Russet mites lay clear, round eggs in the spring. Following the egg's hatching, russet mites go through two developmental nymph stages, which resemble adults. Developmental time varies from 8-15 days based on environmental conditions. Adults are tiny and wedge-shaped, appearing yellow when clustered. They differ from many other mite species in that they only have two pairs of legs. Females overwinter inside the stems of affected plants as well as at plant joints.

Damage:

Russet mite damage usually presents itself at the bottom of the plant and moves upwards as the mite population does. It begins with yellowing leaves (chlorosis) and leaf curl ("taco-ing"), which is often mistaken for a nutrient or water deficiency. Continued russet mite damage will reduce the plant's vigor, overall health, new growth and flowering making control all the more important. Once a population is established the mites will move onto all parts of the plant including flowers and blossoms. Over time, russet mite feeding has a severe impact on bud and flower production throughout a grow making preventative control and early treatment the most economically viable treatment methods."





great IPM for all:

 
Last edited:

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
General IPM Protocol (modified for Russet/broad) :

1. Pest family confirming aka ID confirm Pest under scope ( scopes for phone and computer 10-50 bucks) , if after picture/id taken but can't confirm what it is = Send a non blurry picture to a bug expert via email and they will have np giving you advice and also expert id confirmation for now and future ( guessing for all IPM is if not one of the biggest neglect )
example:
Amazon product

If need Pest Id confirm and IPM expert advice before steps when discovering a "pest"
I have a few times thought I had bad bugs and wehatcha know they were free predators and beneficial , I could see many companies lying and playing games to sell more bugs. They got me as a life long costumer and refer !
order@evergreengrowers.com

Best bug company/biocontrols ive dealt with for almost 10 years.

2. Know these pest pressures and the mode of action , meaning if you can caught/kill the pest before major issues, a true ipm vs fighting a pest when discovered can be winnable but also have way less impact on your wallet and yields, I would def suggest if you can make a budget for your known pest and assume every season if these issues do happen exp if the area u live has these pest everywhere.

3. Have a defense for all Known pest for ur plants ( many for IPM Use similar products ) from day 1-last weeks of flower & always make sure you have a "knockout" than a biological/past flower acceptable product if you can. so you are multi defensed but also multi mode attack on many actions of how insect work ( example how fast reproduce, movement , muscle control)

4. a huge goal in success on a pest defense/IPM and control if non systemic based which majority aren't and you should not use for cannabis is proper defenses but also never allowing the pest to become resistant at any time, you will need to have a foliar schedule but also know the limits and how the pesticides work for a species of pest ( biocontrols are a huge gain in IPM since they can be used in flower and mixed with knockout to become a double action defense ). for example many growers of all level do not do pest management or scanning till a obvious issue, so many pest if seen at that level or adults, you are in a whole new level of defenses vs expecting and preventing pests.

5. The next neglected IPM is proper tool of the trade for Foliar Sprays, I would always support investing in a wireless/battery operated paint sprayer or chemical sprayer instead of hand pumped sprayer. the key is full coverage and when ur Foliar Sprays to have a full mist on all parts vs droplets ( that makes spaces where no mist is there and run off). Another tup to piss off mites is also use as cold water as you can get, I would suggest getting cold water and 10% of the water mass have ice cubes. When I did compares of warmer water vs super cold, def showed mites hate it like people suggested!
---
6. IPM Foliar protocol ( any order , key is knowing what product can be used in flower and be mixed together and never depending on one sprays/function!) key with all these products is using cold water on mites and clean water for best mixture/results, all mite families really hate it + pests and there's people who just used cold water and iso to fuck em up

a big blind IPM is people not reading the manual and not realizing the limits of products and the functions, if it has no wetting agent , ph requirements and guidelines that make it unusable or very costly. for wetting agent I suggest getting yucca extract ( all but DIY Greencleaner will need that).

These rates + also broad spectrum defense works and also has a great multi season ipm for Majority of pest and harder to manage pest if that's the case.

1st spray = Venerate XC @5T + Conserve SC @6ml per gallon = highest dosage for all if infection, if ipm and pest population is dropping I go lowest and daily examine for pest population

2-3 days later

2nd spray = Grandevo @3T + PFR-97 ( costly and needs to be fridge but if commercial or bad russets well worth it) +Evergreen 5.0 @3ml per gallon = highest dosage for all if infection, if ipm and pest population is dropping I go lowest and daily examine for pest population

2-3 days later

3rd Foliar: DIY Green Cleaner (DIY recipe 1/3 70% ISO, 1/3 Brons sals soap & 1/3 Conala Oil or veg. shake well at apply at 1-2oz's per gal)
why buy 300 bucks a gallon when this is exact function recipe and same shit besides green coloring they add ? this product shouldn't be used behind 3-5th week flower as well. Don't ever rely on traditional products to win and keep Pest controllable forever, key is switching actions and controls.

2-3 days later

4th Foliar: Sulphur @ 3T per gallon ( can't be used with neem oil and room above 85f + not be used after 3/4th week of bloom)

then go back to "1st foliar" and go on same steps till flower stage 3/4th week and use that.
---
Foliar IPM: After 3/4th week of bloom- if no pest present , than apply smallest dosage and keep IPM going till last weeks of harvest.if some are there as sign of pressure of pest apply at max of biocontrols till last week/end of harvest . key is pest pressure scanning for all pest to know the general amounts.
( use higher dosages if pest present )

1st foliar = Venerate @2-5T + wetting agent
2-3 days rotate with
2nd foliar = Grandevo @ 1-3 T + PFR-97 ( if you don't , that's ur choice ) + wetting agent

Biocontrol products I suggested for Foliar mixes , the function and how these BC work (heat killed fungus) is the TERPS aka smell attract the pest and they eat it, than it kills them but also makes multi function of making them a zombie and misc things pest hate . key is using multi like I showed cause just like you, get bored of the "food" and than they start eating other stuff, aka ur plants .



7. if not the biggest blind on winning almost all pest is being clean, removing old leafs and also having a IPM/grow room protocol where u must for example

1. take a shower before grow room entry/work.
2. "grow room clothes" , meaning if u use em for that unless washed need to be kept in a bag or used only once. I also suggest for how dirty it can be but also cross contaminate and stains, invest in cover alls!
3. if going out for the day, when getting home take a shower and bag those clothes. you'd be surprised what u bring home and what can fuck ya over since many if not all pest winterize and crew tough hints why we can't kill em off.
4. have grow room shoes.
5. weekly clean grow room walk ways and never allow anyone but the grower and limit everything u can in there cause even pets can spread ur stuff.
6. know ur air intakes of ur room/any non sealed parts of rooms, if greenhouse or even a lot of zones. know the pest issue and know ur Gonnea have that battle

---


now talking to evergreen on phone for IPM for hrm/broad they strongly suggested using suffoilx @2.5T (make sure ph above 7) per gallon and since it doesn’t have resistance issues and can kill multi stage of broad/hrm np they suggested it as their #1 tool in rotation but as a main tool. It’s cost effective , can be used in flower and works great. I just make sure it has 7-15 day distance between sprays since it does stress plant a lil if used before that, this is why I will go inbetween those times since the hatching times and reapply a non stress bio-control ( listed above )


 
Last edited:

DopeDaniel

Taste The Spectrum
IPM Forum Moderator
6. IPM Foliar protocol ( any order , key is knowing what product can be used in flower and be mixed together
A specific example of this plays out in your scenario

"Compatibility: PFR-97™ can be used in conjunction with most other pesticides and is compatible with beneficial arthropods. It can be mixed with copper-based fungicides without impacting performance. However, do not mix with other fungicides, or apply within 5 days of fungicide applications other than copper. PFR-97™ can be mixed with most insecticides for which such mixing is permitted by the label, in accordance with the most restrictive label limitations and precautions of all products used in the mixture. Do not exceed any label dosage rates. However, physical compatibility should be checked by mixing small quantities of each tank mix partner in correct proportions (“jar test”) prior to the first time such a mixture is attempted"

Notice where the application of sulfur falls with respect to PFR97, Botanigard has a similar limitation. Improper application would not only be expensive but counter productive.
 

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
A specific example of this plays out in your scenario

"Compatibility: PFR-97™ can be used in conjunction with most other pesticides and is compatible with beneficial arthropods. It can be mixed with copper-based fungicides without impacting performance. However, do not mix with other fungicides, or apply within 5 days of fungicide applications other than copper. PFR-97™ can be mixed with most insecticides for which such mixing is permitted by the label, in accordance with the most restrictive label limitations and precautions of all products used in the mixture. Do not exceed any label dosage rates. However, physical compatibility should be checked by mixing small quantities of each tank mix partner in correct proportions (“jar test”) prior to the first time such a mixture is attempted"

Notice where the application of sulfur falls with respect to PFR97, Botanigard has a similar limitation. Improper application would not only be expensive but counter productive.

another "respect the instructions" example I would suggest is conserve sc ( wonderful tool, but needs to be respected).... spinosad like many pesticides has a short shelf life when mixed and also light degrades it quickly, also the water quality is a key . spinosad like many has a stated ph need and unlike many it wants to be set at 5.5-5.8 ph. another thing is not knowing ur products season limits. switching productings not only keeps pest way more controllable but you can use less harmful stuff all the time.

like majority of products = shake bottle well if liquid , clean water! make sure all products are mixed well before going to next one if using more than one. make sure manual says there isn't a mixing requirement like some need to be mixed in first ( everything im listing isn't this bad ).




if used correctly ( that's easy), Conserve sc rocks on russets and a lot of bugs. like everything you can't skip corners and expect it to still work assuredly.
 
Last edited:

DopeDaniel

Taste The Spectrum
IPM Forum Moderator
spinosad like many has a stated ph need and unlike many it wants to be set at 5.5-5.8 ph.

I can't find info supporting a tank pH of less than 6 can you provide link to resource?

I don't disagree with anything @BH has said but all of his strategies may not be practical for everyone. Point is to have consistency in how you operate. If its not practical for you to take a shower every time you enter your grow, start with washing your hands.

I will be doing a sulfur burn in a few days. This is also not practical for everyone, particularly those whose grow area is shared with their living space. This is something that is not reactive but preventative so pest ID is kinda a mute point.

If you don't have a way to automate the burn and venting, this process is not for you.

If you don't have minimal proper ppe (full face respirator with appropriate cartridges) this process is not for you.

There are many other aspects to this but I will leave it to you to do your own due diligence here.

You are creating a micronized vapor that permeates all areas, cracks and crevices.

4hrs max length of burn, I trend towards 1.5 hrs for my 96 sq. ft. area.

Use a burner designed to maintain the appropriate temperature.

Use enough sulfur so it doesn't run out during the burn.

Perform during dark cycle several hours before lights on so you can let tratment sit for a few hours before venting. For my system it takes over an hour to ventilate.

This set of instructions is certainly incomplete and only a portion of the SOP.
 

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
I can't find info supporting a tank pH of less than 6 can you provide link to resource?

I don't disagree with anything @BH has said but all of his strategies may not be practical for everyone. Point is to have consistency in how you operate. If its not practical for you to take a shower every time you enter your grow, start with washing your hands.

I will be doing a sulfur burn in a few days. This is also not practical for everyone, particularly those whose grow area is shared with their living space. This is something that is not reactive but preventative so pest ID is kinda a mute point.

If you don't have a way to automate the burn and venting, this process is not for you.

If you don't have minimal proper ppe (full face respirator with appropriate cartridges) this process is not for you.

There are many other aspects to this but I will leave it to you to do your own due diligence here.

You are creating a micronized vapor that permeates all areas, cracks and crevices.

4hrs max length of burn, I trend towards 1.5 hrs for my 96 sq. ft. area.

Use a burner designed to maintain the appropriate temperature.

Use enough sulfur so it doesn't run out during the burn.

Perform during dark cycle several hours before lights on so you can let tratment sit for a few hours before venting. For my system it takes over an hour to ventilate.

This set of instructions is certainly incomplete and only a portion of the SOP.
I looked all over the label and cant find that, it says 6-9 ph

Not sure where i got that info and thab wrote it on the bottle.



Will edit thread in future . Sorry
 
Last edited:

DopeDaniel

Taste The Spectrum
IPM Forum Moderator
The amount of critical shit @BH covered in the span of just a couple hours last night cannot possibly be captured by one go through.

I my effort to comply the stated useage amounts for spinosad I make every effort to do no more than 2 foliar applications and one soil application per month. There are times I can avoid the foliar but skipping the soil application has proven detrimental.
 

jaguarlax

Tactical Gardener
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
The amount of critical shit @BH covered in the span of just a couple hours last night cannot possibly be captured by one go through.

I my effort to comply the stated useage amounts for spinosad I make every effort to do no more than 2 foliar applications and one soil application per month. There are times I can avoid the foliar but skipping the soil application has proven detrimental.
Yea shoutout to @BH for hopping on the new IPM section. Appreciate you mayneeee
 

DopeDaniel

Taste The Spectrum
IPM Forum Moderator
I can't find info supporting a tank pH of less than 6 can you provide link to resource?

I don't disagree with anything @BH has said but all of his strategies may not be practical for everyone. Point is to have consistency in how you operate. If its not practical for you to take a shower every time you enter your grow, start with washing your hands.

I will be doing a sulfur burn in a few days. This is also not practical for everyone, particularly those whose grow area is shared with their living space. This is something that is not reactive but preventative so pest ID is kinda a mute point.

If you don't have a way to automate the burn and venting, this process is not for you.

If you don't have minimal proper ppe (full face respirator with appropriate cartridges) this process is not for you.

There are many other aspects to this but I will leave it to you to do your own due diligence here.

You are creating a micronized vapor that permeates all areas, cracks and crevices.

4hrs max length of burn, I trend towards 1.5 hrs for my 96 sq. ft. area.

Use a burner designed to maintain the appropriate temperature.

Use enough sulfur so it doesn't run out during the burn.

Perform during dark cycle several hours before lights on so you can let tratment sit for a few hours before venting. For my system it takes over an hour to ventilate.

This set of instructions is certainly incomplete and only a portion of the SOP.
If you are a beardo (facial hair) and don't understand the risk of not geeting a good seal with your respirator this procedure is not for you.

You risk serious physical harm if you do not respect these properties of sulfur.

This is what incorrect use does do cannabis.

20200803_085019.jpg

Even if I would have applied at a non damaging rate, the timing was too late and sulfur can adversely impact flavor and product quality.

This morning's application went off without a hitch.
20220130_200058.jpg
20220131_080331.jpg

If anyone has any comments / experiences it would be benificial and appreciated if you share.
 

Drynobbob

In Bloom
I haven’t had any outbreaks, but I been impressed with this product. Organishield. Since I been using it on both indoor and few outdoor last couple of years. Got rid of any spider mite or any bug residue under the scope for me. I got a full bottle of spinosad and pyrethrum and trifecta crop control all unopened. Think I read that bee keepers use it for mites on bees.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom