Trouble in flower
- Thread starter Ggrow
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LittleDabbie
Extract Artist (BHO)
Well shit mane good luck i wish i had better advice for ya.
Just having the thought and chiming in to help me, is invaluable to me brother!
Of the forums I'm in, I've always subconsciously felt that this is where all the Master growers are at!
Hope I at least learn from this. Worse thing than screwing up plants is not learning enough from it lol!
Skunky Dunk Farms
Cannabinoid Receptor
Just saw this post.
Bags can be a pain to keep watered lol.
I just emptied my 6ft bag and 3 days after harvest there was only about a 2 gal wet ball in each section.
They dry out and they dry completeley very easily amd quickly.
My best friend is coco wet, i add 1/4 tsp to every gallon i add.
I water till my drain pan is half full and then let it soak back up. No drain off.
You should never let ball dry, bag is constantly pulling oxygen in as it does it's transpiration. If soil is airy roots should thrive.
Only way to really overwater a bag is to let it sit in water.
Bags can be a pain to keep watered lol.
I just emptied my 6ft bag and 3 days after harvest there was only about a 2 gal wet ball in each section.
They dry out and they dry completeley very easily amd quickly.
My best friend is coco wet, i add 1/4 tsp to every gallon i add.
I water till my drain pan is half full and then let it soak back up. No drain off.
You should never let ball dry, bag is constantly pulling oxygen in as it does it's transpiration. If soil is airy roots should thrive.
Only way to really overwater a bag is to let it sit in water.
Wow…now I'm confused. Do I let them dry out and/or watch for lower fan leaves drooping or not? Most replies I got says to let dry. Even up to drooping before watering.
Do I water when pots are feather light, or keep them moist? I can't tell anymore
Frimpong
🔥Freak Genetics🔥
Always better off waiting. U can do harm w over . Not as much harm when under . I'm an odds guy ?Wow…now I'm confused. Do I let them dry out and/or watch for lower fan leaves drooping or not? Most replies I got says to let dry. Even up to drooping before watering.
Do I water when pots are feather light, or keep them moist? I can't tell anymore
Skunky Dunk Farms
Cannabinoid Receptor
I dont use coco.
I never let them dry out, only about inch or 2 dry and fluffy before water.
For approx. 98 gallons of soil i water about 12 gallons every other day during flower.
This is just what works for my garden.
To much hassle if too dry to recover the whole root ball.
I never let them dry out, only about inch or 2 dry and fluffy before water.
For approx. 98 gallons of soil i water about 12 gallons every other day during flower.
This is just what works for my garden.
To much hassle if too dry to recover the whole root ball.
My mix has a mix of Coco from recycled Soil and Peat. I'm mostly trying to mimic a coots or buildasoil mix. While not perfect, I've been able to grow some good meds. Just not consistent which is why I'm scrutinizing my watering practice.
I'm not afraid to be taught or even reprimanded when I mess up. Just really don't wanna make the same mistakes multiple times, without learning what went wrong?
Won't the bottom be constantly wet, causing issues? Thats actually how I used to water. Waiting for top inch or two to dry. My strategy before this was the same. I thought I had deprived roots of oxygen, resulting in my inconsistent results. Hope you can understand why I'm rather confused now? Can you help to set me straight? How do I really determine when to water and how much?
I guess my aeration part of the mix may not be as good as I thought? I used rice Hulls with Perlite from leftover soil. Also have burnt rice hulls and grounded rice Hulls in there. They do get hard and slightly compacted but not much issues getting them wet. Water passes through pretty well. When I mix the soil, I always make sure they pass the clump/ break easily test.
Thank you for taking the time brother!
Skunky Dunk Farms
Cannabinoid Receptor
I forgot to memtion my bag is not sitting flat on the tray, it is slightly elevated with a plastic tray.
But the bottom surface is still flat and touching on that tray tight? Should not be much difference then?
So you water when you see top inch or two being dry, which is what I have been doing.
@Frimpong Does your Peat based soil compact a lot when let dry? Peat does that though. Do you have problems rehydrating it? I find just watering slowly will do it. I may be wrong.
Frimpong
🔥Freak Genetics🔥
Oh ya I agree . Dude forget about that top two inch thing . It's asking for trouble. U just gotta get in there an lift it . It's unfortunately the only way I have proven effective. One overwatering can fuck ur whole shit up . I've done it
IMO this media that you are using could be part of the problem. Organic growing is awesome but the soil makeup can be very complicated. That is one of the things i like about growing in coco i can start with a blank canvas and add what i think is necessary. I think with the soil make up i think the lift test is the most accurate. Very hard to under water in soil and easy to over water. When i worked with soil a little i used 3 gallon fabric pots and at the stage your plants are in they would need watering every third day or so but that will change at different growth stages. I see you are using 10 gal pots so you should be able to go a fairly good stretch without water. One of the reasons for some confusion here is when growing in coco it is almost the opposite and very hard to over water. @Frimpong should he not be trying to amend this soil with a calcium additive of some sort?Wow…now I'm confused. Do I let them dry out and/or watch for lower fan leaves drooping or not? Most replies I got says to let dry. Even up to drooping before watering.
Do I water when pots are feather light, or keep them moist? I can't tell anymore
If anything, it feels more like a lockout than a deficiency. I top dressed about 2 weeks ago and the mix has gypsum in it that was cooked for 2 months easily. They also received AACT right before flip.
My original plan was to alternate top dressing and AACT every two weeks. The time for AACT is almost here.
Again, not sure if I should be doing the tea or not?
Frimpong
🔥Freak Genetics🔥
Stuff I use has everything but u can always ammend or even mix up a batch of calmag
Buck5050
Underground Chucker
I just want to chime in on the original posted problem. A couple things collided I believe.
When the plant was being consistently watered the salts(nutrients) in your fertilizers stayed suspended in the water and the plant utilized them when needed. Once your dry out the water evaporates and the unused salts are left behind creating build up / lock out conditions. Usually you can move those out by "flushing" with plain water. Dry Back and dry out are separate things. Soil is an buffer for many things including moisture levels, but it also can hold on to moisture for quite awhile and actually drown the plant by not allowing oxygen at the roots. This is why "dry back" is important for soil growers. It's best to think humidity of the roots zone then how saturated it is.
The second thing I suspect was timing. 3-4 weeks into flower the girls are going through dramatic shift in the life cycle of the plant. The flowering hormones are pushing forward and Bud set is on. This is where most nutrient programs are cutting back on the N and pushing more PKs to create budding. I can see how a lock out would trip up the plant at that particular stage.
If WC is a sensitive plant in general that would make it harder and your plants don't look to far gone to put out something good in the end.
When the plant was being consistently watered the salts(nutrients) in your fertilizers stayed suspended in the water and the plant utilized them when needed. Once your dry out the water evaporates and the unused salts are left behind creating build up / lock out conditions. Usually you can move those out by "flushing" with plain water. Dry Back and dry out are separate things. Soil is an buffer for many things including moisture levels, but it also can hold on to moisture for quite awhile and actually drown the plant by not allowing oxygen at the roots. This is why "dry back" is important for soil growers. It's best to think humidity of the roots zone then how saturated it is.
The second thing I suspect was timing. 3-4 weeks into flower the girls are going through dramatic shift in the life cycle of the plant. The flowering hormones are pushing forward and Bud set is on. This is where most nutrient programs are cutting back on the N and pushing more PKs to create budding. I can see how a lock out would trip up the plant at that particular stage.
If WC is a sensitive plant in general that would make it harder and your plants don't look to far gone to put out something good in the end.
Frimpong
🔥Freak Genetics🔥
It's just tough when you're not there. There are so many goddamn things I can go wrong and you have to use your experience and judgment. This is true what buck is saying. Hope it helpsI just want to chime in on the original posted problem. A couple things collided I believe.
When the plant was being consistently watered the salts(nutrients) in your fertilizers stayed suspended in the water and the plant utilized them when needed. Once your dry out the water evaporates and the unused salts are left behind creating build up / lock out conditions. Usually you can move those out by "flushing" with plain water. Dry Back and dry out are separate things. Soil is an buffer for many things including moisture levels, but it also can hold on to moisture for quite awhile and actually drown the plant by not allowing oxygen at the roots. This is why "dry back" is important for soil growers. It's best to think humidity of the roots zone then how saturated it is.
The second thing I suspect was timing. 3-4 weeks into flower the girls are going through dramatic shift in the life cycle of the plant. The flowering hormones are pushing forward and Bud set is on. This is where most nutrient programs are cutting back on the N and pushing more PKs to create budding. I can see how a lock out would trip up the plant at that particular stage.
If WC is a sensitive plant in general that would make it harder and your plants don't look to far gone to put out something good in the end.
Excellent explanation! My biggest takeaway is to consider humidity of root zone instead of saturation. Basically this means they can get dryer than I thought.I just want to chime in on the original posted problem. A couple things collided I believe.
When the plant was being consistently watered the salts(nutrients) in your fertilizers stayed suspended in the water and the plant utilized them when needed. Once your dry out the water evaporates and the unused salts are left behind creating build up / lock out conditions. Usually you can move those out by "flushing" with plain water. Dry Back and dry out are separate things. Soil is an buffer for many things including moisture levels, but it also can hold on to moisture for quite awhile and actually drown the plant by not allowing oxygen at the roots. This is why "dry back" is important for soil growers. It's best to think humidity of the roots zone then how saturated it is.
The second thing I suspect was timing. 3-4 weeks into flower the girls are going through dramatic shift in the life cycle of the plant. The flowering hormones are pushing forward and Bud set is on. This is where most nutrient programs are cutting back on the N and pushing more PKs to create budding. I can see how a lock out would trip up the plant at that particular stage.
If WC is a sensitive plant in general that would make it harder and your plants don't look to far gone to put out something good in the end.
Your analysis of this is very thorough. I do think it makes a lot of sense. Dry back and dry out. Which is why I've been advised to wait for a light pot cos even when very light, root ball should still be humid. Most roots should've gotten a hit of oxygen already.
With some practice, I should be able to get the hang of it. I hope!
