Two-Spot/General Mite aka Tetranychidae Info/IPM & Knockout

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BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
"Spider mites (Tetranychidae) are common pests of many outdoor crops including berries, ornamentals, vines, many fruit trees, hemp and cannabis. There are many subspecies of spider mites in the Tetranychus genus including the Pacific Spider Mite, Two-Spotted Spider Mite and Strawberry Spider Mite. Some species are more easily identified than others; however, it is generally unnecessary to do so as their biology, damage, and control measures are similar or the same.


Spider mite populations can grow rapidly under the right conditions (warm with little wind is their favorite) and can be identified by the telltale webbing they produce on plant leaves. Unfortunately, by the time you see webbing, it may be difficult to control the population. Spider mites undergo five life stages – egg, larva, two nymph stages and the adult stage.

  • Eggs – Overwinter under bark, in fallen leaf matter, and other areas that provide shelter. During the growing season they can be found on the undersides of leaves. They usually hatch within three days.
  • Larva – Begin hatching after the last frost has passed and have six legs. Little feeding is done by this stage.
  • Nymph – Looks similar to the adult, but slightly smaller and unable to reproduce. There are two nymph stages: proto-nymph and deuto-nymph.
  • Adult – About 0.4 mm long with eight legs, adult spider mites can be pale yellow to green or orange to brown. Females lay between 50-100 eggs throughout their lives with unfertilized eggs hatching as males and fertilized eggs hatching as females.
  • The duration of a spider mite's life cycle varies greatly depending on environmental conditions with temperature being the chief contributor to that variability. Due to that, they are most active outdoors during the summer months. A generation can be completed in under a week if conditions are favorable.


    Damage Symptoms: Spider mites damage foliage by sucking juices from the leaves. This shows up as stippling on the leaves and more severe damage can result in leaf bronzing that may lead to leaf drop. Leaf drop increases incidence of sun/light burn and negatively affects both vegetative and flowering stages. Additional signs of spider mites are curled and/or burned leaf edges as well as leaves that have taken on a leathery texture. Webbing will be produced when mite populations grow in size and can be found on foliage, twigs and fruit/buds.
"
ID pest/general:



amazing IPM info:


Grandevo aka biocontrol in action


What to look for
Signs of mites before heavy populations aka webbing
E9211778-D088-406A-A678-A7B9E30AD1E5.jpeg

Under leaf: Mite & EGGS
0F9919E3-2582-4432-B908-79C1FDDC50EB.jpeg
 
Last edited:

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
War/Knockout & IPM For Mite/Two spot:

like any pest that has a specific favor/attraction to a plant or pressure in a region for a farmer IPM is key and also knowing what to do and solve the issue before it over takes your garden. Mites are not will you get em, its when will you....
Since two spot is a 2-6 day hatch rate after mating , 3 days at average

if not infected I suggest spraying every 7 days-14 days , if outdoors adjust if it rains to spray after or 3-7 days before the rain if possible ( to keep pests away and or kill low population before its a issue), for any pest and exp spider mites i would suggest IPM scan every 3-7 days and see with a usb scope a few leafs and if u have a good hand scope look under misc leafs for obvious mites. look for damage on any top of leaf for any starting issues .


in IPM a good tip/tool for success if growing indoors make sure to wear clean clothes/take a "wash off" shower if possible and don't track into ur garden. Also make sure if in taking air try to make sure ur intake/room has a hepa filter (, if outdoors key is to know pest pressures and what pest reinfect every season and also if u have plants/weeds near that could make ur battle way worse cause they are heavily infected ( i have landscape fabric and try to eliminate any weeds in my outdoor square cause i figured out alot of weeds would have mites when drought time)

A huge key to keeping pest down and also if pest occurs is to get ur foliar's correctly sprayed but also full coverage ( stuff i recommend isnt systematic ). I highly recommend in-less big commercial to invest in a good wireless battery mister sprayer . not only will it pay for itself in not using as much for the coverage over a traditional hand pump but ur coverage is better than a fogger!


another mistake/ill effect is trying to apply when theres too much light ( i try to do 1-2 hrs before sunset or at least cloudy/end day, indoors I would turn off direct lights/ option 2 when lights are off indoors aka nighttime) . another factors is warm environment ( above 90f) and RH too strong ( above 90rh ) or after rain. doing such will ruin ur efforts but also could be more of a con/stress than the actions. also make sure to have ph of 5.5-7.5 and if u can use clean water like r/o ( going on ur plants exp in flower stage )

---
IPM for two spot Mite

since two spot egg hatch/breeding is 3-7 days scan and look for damage whole cycle. Like any pest, key is to know ur pest and catch it early!

if no known infection Apply every 7-14 days and no knockouts pesticides , if seeing any go all out. key is rotate IPM and knowing what the mode of action of the control/pesticide your using. worse thing you can do is over apply/use super deadly pesticides at non suggestion rates , that result will make like anything that 1% ( killed 99%) you had survive into being able to survive tools that should work. using known non resistant IPM tools and also knowing ur modes will never allow them to evolve but also keep them easily controlled if they reenter into garden.
------

IPM Program example of not infected but possible mites can occur. if mites spotted switch to "knockout" IPM, wetting agent i would suggest is Yucca extract


1. IPM #1 Use Biocontrol Grandevo or Venerate @ low-mid level dosage + wetting agent



2. 7 days later ( scan for pest, if no pest shown) =
IPM #2 switch to opposite biocontrol you used + wetting agent

3. 7 days later, IPM scan and if no pest =
IPM #3 switch to #1+ wetting agent

Biocontrols:

the benefit of this biocontrol program is =
can be used as a whole cycle mode of IPM but also 2nd mode of defense ( which can be mixed in with so man y products np)no resistance issues will be a issue with these products, bee safe, human safe on cannabis till day of harvest . issue with many tradional and pesticides is so many cant be used in flower, these biocontrols you most defiantly can but also know without a doubt they are lab accepted and cannabis label approved. Cost factor compared to traditional is way cheaper. these bottled companies decieve people by thinking wow u get a whole bottle , key is looking at cost per gallon and so many products i see at hydro store are simple oils and are 5-10 bucks a gallon vs grandevo/venerate which is way under a dollar a gallon.
----
If pest Present =
example of knockout/ when pest are present: If pest occur and need of War/attack = wipe the population before its a real issue

veg stage - before 3/4th week flower ( two spot mite infection) IPM if pest present:


1. Knockout #1 = I suggest making a DIY greencleaner ( 1/3 ISO 70% + Sals Soap + Canola oil aka greencleaner concentrate ) apply at rate for water of diy greencleaner @ 1-2 oz .. fuck paying price for greencleaner
2. knockout #1 part 2 spray 24 hrs later same product if DIY GC or similar mode of action , key i suggest this is to kill the main population by 99%+
^ reason when u see i dont suggest using this anytime but these first two times is because i dont like the stress it produces on the plant and also theres many products that will do much better on mites after this action, i just see if u use this as a first time wipe out, def works great!

^ or 2nd alt to that and no stress would be use SuffOil-X ( cheap and super effective for traditional IPM) 1st time and go to step 3 after 2-3 days ( cant use suffoil-x beyond 7 days, therfore u need a 2nd option for every 3 days)


3.Knockout #2 3 days later spray Spinosad (conserve @5ml a gal) + Biocontrol (grandevo or venerate) + wetting agent


4. knockout #3 3 days later IPM Examine leafs , if pest pressure killed 99% =only apply biocontrol (grandevo or venerate) + wetting agent
if seeing higher than 10% still alive and pumping = Apply Knockout #3 ( Suff-Oil-X @2.5T) + biocontrol ( no wetting agent for suffoil-x)

5. 3 days later check for mite population pressure, if mites still ur enemy apply knockout #4 aka Evergreen 5.0 @1/5 oz per gal + biocontrol + wetting agent




6. 3 days check pest pressure, if pest still occurring switch knockout (spinosad or suffoilx) + biocontrol,
if no pest or less than 1% = biocontrols + wetting agent , key is IPM scan ur leafs and scout but also know how they can be attacking ya.

^Reason why u have use multiple knockouts/biocontrols to win on ipm is the pest can survive certain modes or it only kills entirely certain stages of the pest. the issue with non biocontrols and traditional pesticides is their limited times per cycle but also can stress the plant. many con's, always make sure to read ur manual and for example the spinosad (conserve sc) has a cycle limit , its only limited cause its well documented pest will evolve/adapt like many pesticides will become "immune" and evolve to be able to survive ( hints why if u have 1% and repeat same those 1% may breed and make super pest). the reason why you use two diff biocontrols is because with testing the companies know its not the resisatnace thats the issue for issues its that the pest to get poisoned is the action of the biocontrol is the terps of the fungus attract the pest to it and they eat that and it dysfunctions their mode of reproduction, making em slower and also death. if u only used one bio it has a case of anything like if u ate same meal everyday even if it was your favorite meal. if theres other options like for a pest the plant they start choosing that. this is why in testing they show multi biocontrol is key for ipm as well ( not just mode of attack/killing mode)



-----
After 3/4th week of flower IPM (even if pest present or not)=

1. spray biocontrol #1 + wetting agent @ high dosage

2. 3-14 days later foliar biocontrol #2 ( if no pest)

3. repeat , if i see no pest by 6-7th week i stop biocontrols (saves $), but if i had pest issues or see any even if small amount i keep ipm spraying till harvest.

 
Last edited:

Frimpong

🔥Freak Genetics🔥
War/Knockout & IPM For Mite/Two spot:

like any pest that has a specific favor/attraction to a plant or pressure in a region for a farmer IPM is key and also knowing what to do and solve the issue before it over takes your garden. Mites are not will you get em, its when will you....
Since two spot is a 2-6 day hatch rate after mating , 3 days at average

if not infected I suggest spraying every 7 days-14 days , if outdoors adjust if it rains to spray after or 3-7 days before the rain if possible ( to keep pests away and or kill low population before its a issue), for any pest and exp spider mites i would suggest IPM scan every 3-7 days and see with a usb scope a few leafs and if u have a good hand scope look under misc leafs for obvious mites. look for damage on any top of leaf for any starting issues .


in IPM a good tip/tool for success if growing indoors make sure to wear clean clothes/take a "wash off" shower if possible and don't track into ur garden. Also make sure if in taking air try to make sure ur intake/room has a hepa filter (, if outdoors key is to know pest pressures and what pest reinfect every season and also if u have plants/weeds near that could make ur battle way worse cause they are heavily infected ( i have landscape fabric and try to eliminate any weeds in my outdoor square cause i figured out alot of weeds would have mites when drought time)

A huge key to keeping pest down and also if pest occurs is to get ur foliar's correctly sprayed but also full coverage ( stuff i recommend isnt systematic ). I highly recommend in-less big commercial to invest in a good wireless battery mister sprayer . not only will it pay for itself in not using as much for the coverage over a traditional hand pump but ur coverage is better than a fogger!


another mistake/ill effect is trying to apply when theres too much light ( i try to do 1-2 hrs before sunset or turn off lights/when lights are off indoors) . another factors is warm environment ( above 90f) and RH too strong ( above 90rh ) or after rain. doing such will ruin ur efforts but also could be more of a con/stress than the actions. also make sure to have ph of 5.5-7.5 and if u can use clean water like r/o ( going on ur plants exp in flower stage )

---
IPM for two spot Mite

since egg hatch/life span is 3-7 days scan and look for damage whole cycle.

if no known infection Apply every 7 days and no knockouts, if seeing any go all out. key is rotate IPM and knowing what the mode of action of the control/pesticide your using. worse thing you can do is over apply/use super deadly pesticides at non suggestion rates , that result will make like anything that 1% ( killed 99%) you had survive into being able to survive tools that should work. using known non resistant IPM tools and also knowing ur modes will never allow them to evolve but also keep them easily controlled if they reenter into garden.
------

IPM Program example of not infected but possible mites can occur. if mites spotted switch to "knockout" IPM, wetting agent i would suggest is Yucca extract


1. IPM #1 Use Biocontrol Grandevo or Venerate @ low-mid level dosage + wetting agent



2. 7 days later ( scan for pest, if no pest shown) =
IPM #2 switch to opposite biocontrol you used + wetting agent

3. 7 days later, IPM scan and if no pest =
IPM #3 switch to #1+ wetting agent

Biocontrols:

the benefit of this biocontrol program is =
can be used as a whole cycle mode of IPM but also 2nd mode of defense ( which can be mixed in with so man y products np)no resistance issues will be a issue with these products, bee safe, human safe on cannabis till day of harvest . issue with many tradional and pesticides is so many cant be used in flower, these biocontrols you most defiantly can but also know without a doubt they are lab accepted and cannabis label approved. Cost factor compared to traditional is way cheaper. these bottled companies decieve people by thinking wow u get a whole bottle , key is looking at cost per gallon and so many products i see at hydro store are simple oils and are 5-10 bucks a gallon vs grandevo/venerate which is way under a dollar a gallon.
----
If pest Present =
example of knockout/ when pest are present: If pest occur and need of War/attack = wipe the population before its a real issue

veg stage - before 3/4th week flower ( two spot mite infection) IPM if pest present:


1. Knockout #1 = I suggest making a DIY greencleaner ( 1/3 ISO 70% + Sals Soap + Canola oil) @ 1-2 oz .. fuck paying price for greencleaner
2. knockout #1 part 2 spray 24 hrs later same product if DIY GC or similar mode of action , key i suggest this is to kill the main population by 99%+
^ reason when u see i dont suggest using this anytime but these first two times is because i dont like the stress it produces on the plant and also theres many products that will do much better on mites after this action, i just see if u use this as a first time wipe out, def works great!

^ or 2nd alt to that and no stress would be use SuffOil-X ( cheap and super effective for traditional IPM) 1st time and go to step 3 after 2-3 days ( cant use suffoil-x beyond 7 days, therfore u need a 2nd option for every 3 days)


3.Knockout #2 3 days later spray Spinosad (conserve @5ml a gal) + Biocontrol (grandevo or venerate) + wetting agent


4. knockout #3 3 days later IPM Examine leafs , if pest pressure killed 99% =only apply biocontrol (grandevo or venerate) + wetting agent
if seeing higher than 10% still alive and pumping = Apply Knockout #3 ( Suff-Oil-X @2.5T) + biocontrol ( no wetting agent for suffoil-x)

5. 3 days later check for mite population pressure, if mites still ur enemy apply knockout #4 aka Evergreen 5.0 @1/5 oz per gal + biocontrol + wetting agent

6. 3 days check pest pressure, if pest still occurring switch knockout (spinosad or suffoilx) + biocontrol,

if no pest or less than 1% = biocontrols + wetting agent , key is IPM scan ur leafs and scout but also know how they can be attacking ya.

^Reason why u have to multiple knockouts to win on ipm is the pest can survive certain modes or it only kills entirely certain stages of the pest. the issue with non biocontrols and traditional pesticides is their limited times per cycle but also can stress the plant. many con's, always make sure to read ur manual and for example the spinosad (conserve sc) has a cycle limit , its only limited cause its well documented pest will evolve/adapt like many pesticides will become "immune" and evolve to be able to survive ( hints why if u have 1% and repeat same those 1% may breed and make super pest). the reason why you use two diff biocontrols is because with testing the companies know its not the resisatnace thats the issue for issues its that the pest to get poisoned is the action of the biocontrol is the terps of the fungus attract the pest to it and they eat that and it dysfunctions their mode of reproduction, making em slower and also death. if u only used one bio it has a case of anything like if u ate same meal everyday even if it was your favorite meal. if theres other options like for a pest the plant they start choosing that. this is why in testing they show multi biocontrol is key for ipm as well ( not just mode of attack/killing mode)



-----
After 3/4th week of flower IPM (even if pest present or not)=

1. spray biocontrol #1 + wetting agent @ high dosage

2. 3 days later foliar biocontrol #2

3. repeat , if i see no pest by 6-7th week i stop biocontrols (saves $), but if i had pest issues or see any even if small amount i keep ipm spraying till harvest.

Killer info man , much appreciated.
 

HBZ

❄️🔥💎 FORAGER of FIRE 💎🔥❄️
@BH this is what I needed. Getting all this ordered today..I'm not even about to deal with these mites..I really had to search to even find the mite in the pic but I did find them...Ill follow this word for word.... appreciate ya?
 

Frosty78

Habitabat autem somnium
Would lost coast plant therapy be part of the routine aswell? I'm familiar with electromiser (electrostatic) technology from ag background. In Australia silvan pumps and sprayers pioneered that technology here. I see its made its way into spray packs and hand held sprayers. What a godsend. I intend to utilise that in ipm here. The positive charge particles attach and envelop the entire leaf and plant and stick. Do you use this type of tech over there bh? Great write up
 
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BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
IPM Forum Moderator
Would lost coast plant therapy be part of the routine aswell? I'm familiar with electromiser (electrostatic) technology from ag background. In Australia silvan pumps and sprayers pioneered that technology here. I see its made its way into spray packs and hand held sprayers. What a godsend. I intend to utilise that in ipm here. The positive charge particles attach and envelop the entire leaf and plant and stick. Do you use this type of tech over there bh? Great write up
Yes , it would be same level as greencleaner/dr zyme /nuke em.it dries the bug out . The con is it def stresses the plant out exp when applying the dosage u need if u need to knockout. another issue I see with plant therapy is it’s cost per gallon ( like other listed example brands) and it’s effective % ive personally seen and seen others use it as their tool singular and rotated and really it’s nothing special , so my suggestion is if u like that tool , why pay for a fancy bottle when the mixture for this mode of attack is easily created . I suggest to make a concentrated green clean is simply 1/3 each sals soap, canola oil ( many oils will work) & 70% iso . Than once made into concentrate always shake before applying to water and stir heavily in at dosage of 1/2 oz (preventive dosage) - 1oz normal knockout , 1-2oz per gallon of diy GC to water for high pressure knockout ( kills even russets-broad mites). To add another mode add 5-10 drops (.25-1/2 ml per gallon of foliar spray ) each of rosemary , spearmint or peppermint , ceder & cinnamon oil . This will give the formula a deter but also works wonders on pests ( basically GC with sns 217). Key with these products like many is full coverage and when pest pressure to adjust ur spray dates/timing.

point is yes that product works but it can def be created and also used for Pennie’s per dollar and also created super easy and fast.

you asked what sprayer do I? I have for outdoors a wand + 50ft corded paint sprAyer with suggested sprayer tip by green Clesner and marrone . for indoors I use a hand held sprayer and always my mixes are stirred for 5-15 minutes before use and also used with r/o water and ph corrected if product states such.

ive tried many brands of sprayers and more i talk/listen with Ipm advisors or bug Ipm wholesalers they suggest to not use foggers but finer the most better and wetting agents is a big part of sucess as well, like many of my products besides the greencleaner need a wetting agent mixed in.

both my my Home Depot battery operated sprayers failed, granted u gotta realize I’m using my sprayer every 3-7 days and more than most hobbyist use it (od/veggie garden/indoors) so it’s a good test if they survive. So far I did a whole outdoor and in 2/3 way indoors and this sprayer not only never clogs but man it produces some amazing mist and uses usb charging ( like every 5-10 gal I recharge )

for price wow, I’m def impressed

Amazon product
 

Frosty78

Habitabat autem somnium
Yes , it would be same level as greencleaner/dr zyme /nuke em.it dries the bug out . The con is it def stresses the plant out exp when applying the dosage u need if u need to knockout. another issue I see with plant therapy is it’s cost per gallon ( like other listed example brands) and it’s effective % ive personally seen and seen others use it as their tool singular and rotated and really it’s nothing special , so my suggestion is if u like that tool , why pay for a fancy bottle when the mixture for this mode of attack is easily created . I suggest to make a concentrated green clean is simply 1/3 each sals soap, canola oil ( many oils will work) & 70% iso . Than once made into concentrate always shake before applying to water and stir heavily in at dosage of 1/2 oz (preventive dosage) - 1oz normal knockout , 1-2oz per gallon of diy GC to water for high pressure knockout ( kills even russets-broad mites). To add another mode add 5-10 drops (.25-1/2 ml per gallon of foliar spray ) each of rosemary , spearmint or peppermint , ceder & cinnamon oil . This will give the formula a deter but also works wonders on pests ( basically GC with sns 217). Key with these products like many is full coverage and when pest pressure to adjust ur spray dates/timing.

point is yes that product works but it can def be created and also used for Pennie’s per dollar and also created super easy and fast.

you asked what sprayer do I? I have for outdoors a wand + 50ft corded paint sprAyer with suggested sprayer tip by green Clesner and marrone . for indoors I use a hand held sprayer and always my mixes are stirred for 5-15 minutes before use and also used with r/o water and ph corrected if product states such.

ive tried many brands of sprayers and more i talk/listen with Ipm advisors or bug Ipm wholesalers they suggest to not use foggers but finer the most better and wetting agents is a big part of sucess as well, like many of my products besides the greencleaner need a wetting agent mixed in.

both my my Home Depot battery operated sprayers failed, granted u gotta realize I’m using my sprayer every 3-7 days and more than most hobbyist use it (od/veggie garden/indoors) so it’s a good test if they survive. So far I did a whole outdoor and in 2/3 way indoors and this sprayer not only never clogs but man it produces some amazing mist and uses usb charging ( like every 5-10 gal I recharge )

for price wow, I’m def impressed

Amazon product

G'day bh, great prompt response. I agree with lost coast quite expensive. I make a similar version which like you stated costs bugger all.

Sprayer wise, foggers are different to electromiser/electrostatic sprayers. I could be wrong but a fogger sprays a very small particle whereas an electrostatic sprayer can spray a variety of mists at a greater rate. The difference is the positive charge which sticks to all of the plant.

Outdoors I don't think I will go back to normal sprayers after reconnecting with electrostatic.
Great write up on the ipm for mites mate
 
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