Vacations

Gatorbackbob

In Bloom
I've been running smaller pots, like probably 2 gallon. I know that limits my plants, but my tent size is tiny enough, especially on the 2x2, that I haven't bothered going bigger so far. I like the wick idea. You think adding even more 2-liter jugs (or maybe 1 gallon jugs?) would give you more days?
Yes, just be sure it's 100% cotton and that your pots are nice and heavy watered
 

DemonTrich

In Bloom
I have the same clone king aero cloners. I opted for the 25 site, as it's less cramped for the cuttings vs the 30 site version. Tap, straight out the faucet for my aero cloner. The chlorine helps a bit for sanitizing purposes (same as adding pool shock, but tap is free, pool shock costs $$).

I use bubbled h2o for watering/feeding my plants. Bubbled water gets rid of the chlorine after 24hrs.

I don't need a RO filter for my water. My city water is pretty decent, and only 107ppm and 7.3ph. I don't even use ph meters any longer. I have lists of what each additive does to the ph, and I know how much ph down I need to get my water solution to my desired ph target.

Example
I already know my tap ph is 7.3. If I fill up a 2.5 gallon aero cloner (what the clone king aero cloners fill at), I need to add 3.5ml of ph down to get 6.0 ph cloner water.

If I add 1ml silica to my water for my plants, I need to add 1.5ml ph down per gallon of bubbled water to get 6.5ph.
 

Jewels

Tilts at Tables
do you use tap water
Your municipality can furnish you with a detailed water report.
PH will rise with GH and TDS.
200ppm would present challenges and anything above 300 PPM is almost unusable.
Over 8 Ph may present challenges.

-

Temperature and light intensity drive photosynthesis.

20240427_141021.jpg
I 'held' this male around 8-13C, 75% RH.
Tucked in the corner of the garage, with no artificial lighting. During the day there was enough light leaking into the room that I could see the plant, but not much more.
Didnt droop for three weeks.

That is not a practical or advisable in your specific situation; just an illustration.

Kind of like saying
" how long will it take a gas last ?"

Not long, if you have it matted going straight up hill.
Same car picking up the mail once a week? That gas could last for months.
 

UrbanHillbilly

In Bloom
Your municipality can furnish you with a detailed water report.
PH will rise with GH and TDS.
200ppm would present challenges and anything above 300 PPM is almost unusable.
Over 8 Ph may present challenges.

-

Temperature and light intensity drive photosynthesis.

View attachment 201763
I 'held' this male around 8-13C, 75% RH.
Tucked in the corner of the garage, with no artificial lighting. During the day there was enough light leaking into the room that I could see the plant, but not much more.
Didnt droop for three weeks.

That is not a practical or advisable in your specific situation; just an illustration.

Kind of like saying
" how long will it take a gas last ?"

Not long, if you have it matted going straight up hill.
Same car picking up the mail once a week? That gas could last for months.
Interesting stuff. I do have a cheap TDS meter, but I've usually focused on using it after adding nutes to the water. I tracked down the utility water report and it just labels it as "hardness," averaging about 150. I measured it tonight at about 120. Hmmm, perhaps I can get away with using it.

You say your garage averaged 75% humidity?!? Where in the world do you live?
 

Jewels

Tilts at Tables
and it just labels it as "hardness
Are there detailed parameters?
I measured it tonight at about 120. Hmmm, perhaps I can get away with using it.
Sounds good !
Most likely usable.

The details will tell you the nuts and bolts of what is in your water. What is making up that 'hardness'

A TDS meter is essentially adding up specific parameters and displaying them as a number.

The details you are most interested in are calcium, magnesium,, and surprises.

That 120 you are measuring may well be largely made up of calcium and magnesium

What is the measurement of the stuff that you are buying in bottles?

Surprises would be any constituent that is present in levels that are toxic to plants- be it Salt, or Mineral. You may find your water has an abundance of iron.
Stuff like that.
Honestly, you could probably learn to work with it. If your neighbors have vegetable gardens, how bad can it be ?

Worth investigating , I would say.
Your tap may have alot of what your plants need.
 

UrbanHillbilly

In Bloom
Are there detailed parameters?</quote>
It's probably easiest to just post the report here.

Sounds good !
Most likely usable.

The details will tell you the nuts and bolts of what is in your water. What is making up that 'hardness'

A TDS meter is essentially adding up specific parameters and displaying them as a number.

The details you are most interested in are calcium, magnesium,, and surprises.

That 120 you are measuring may well be largely made up of calcium and magnesium

What is the measurement of the stuff that you are buying in bottles?

Surprises would be any constituent that is present in levels that are toxic to plants- be it Salt, or Mineral. You may find your water has an abundance of iron.
Stuff like that.
Honestly, you could probably learn to work with it. If your neighbors have vegetable gardens, how bad can it be ?

Worth investigating , I would say.
Your tap may have alot of what your plants need.
I really should check into that better on the purchased water. Right now I can't even recall the name of the brand on the machines I use at the store. We have a few gardens in the backyard. Of course they get plenty of rain as well. Especially this weekend. :LOL:

It's worth noting that the report I linked above does state that calcium and magnesium are the main factors in the hardness. But it doesn't appear to get anymore specific than that.
 

webeblzr

In Bloom
I used a couple of float valves, and extra pump, and a surgically altered dedicated plastic trash can, that I set beside my sunken reservoir, when I was Krusty Freedom Bucket grower, back in 2003-4 time frame. We got to go away for 10 days, while the system kept flying along.
The more I think about it would over kill for your needs. I have a few pics, if you have any interest in seeing it.
That was a magical time, running that system, and plants were huge.
Passive resy3 and sunken resy.jpg
Float valves/pump in the can, and in the float valve sunken resy.
 

UrbanHillbilly

In Bloom
I used a couple of float valves, and extra pump, and a surgically altered dedicated plastic trash can, that I set beside my sunken reservoir, when I was Krusty Freedom Bucket grower, back in 2003-4 time frame. We got to go away for 10 days, while the system kept flying along.
The more I think about it would over kill for your needs. I have a few pics, if you have any interest in seeing it.
That was a magical time, running that system, and plants were huge.
View attachment 202015
Float valves/pump in the can, and in the float valve sunken resy.
Well for starters, my tents are on the second floor, not the basement, so no sump well. How necessary was that to the setup?

I just came from checking on the tents. I realized I had a brain fart on one thing. I brought some jugs of water upstairs and decided to put them in the tent to save on space, and also to keep the water at the same temp, which admittedly isn't a big difference. The problem is they've been in there several days and today I noticed they're turning green from growing algae (of course, doh!) due to the grow light. Is it still safe to use that water?
 
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