Autoflower breeding seeds and techniques

BigPretzel

In Bloom
I’m really interested in the techniques part of this. I want to get into breeding with autos a little bit for my own personal fun.

The main questions I have are how do you select your breeding stock if it hasn’t flowered yet? I guess with photos you can Pheno hunt and save cuts so you know which are the keepers and who to get rid of and not even waste time on but With autos how do I know which are gonna be keepers or who I should pollinate? Or do you just pollinate them all and then once you harvest separate the seeds from each plant/Pheno then have to grow some of each out to see what you have? Is that why most shy from autos because of how much time goes into breeding them?

Do you find it easier to breed with autos that are already stabilized? Like I see Night owl and Binary selections have been putting out a bunch of F1 autos that have been vigorous frost monsters that flower pretty fast, but then I also hear ppl say you shouldn’t release an F1 auto, so how does this work, For example if I took an F4 from mephisto and crossed that to an f2 of a twenty20 auto strain would the auto traits already be locked in for that F1? Then I can keep going down the line to stabilize then PVI? Or would it be the same as breeding let’s say pure Michigan f2 photo to an f4 or f5 auto flower where barely any would auto and I’d have to keep selecting to make the auto trait dominant and then start selecting for PVI?
 
I’m really interested in the techniques part of this. I want to get into breeding with autos a little bit for my own personal fun.

The main questions I have are how do you select your breeding stock if it hasn’t flowered yet? I guess with photos you can Pheno hunt and save cuts so you know which are the keepers and who to get rid of and not even waste time on but With autos how do I know which are gonna be keepers or who I should pollinate? Or do you just pollinate them all and then once you harvest separate the seeds from each plant/Pheno then have to grow some of each out to see what you have? Is that why most shy from autos because of how much time goes into breeding them?

Do you find it easier to breed with autos that are already stabilized? Like I see Night owl and Binary selections have been putting out a bunch of F1 autos that have been vigorous frost monsters that flower pretty fast, but then I also hear ppl say you shouldn’t release an F1 auto, so how does this work, For example if I took an F4 from mephisto and crossed that to an f2 of a twenty20 auto strain would the auto traits already be locked in for that F1? Then I can keep going down the line to stabilize then PVI? Or would it be the same as breeding let’s say pure Michigan f2 photo to an f4 or f5 auto flower where barely any would auto and I’d have to keep selecting to make the auto trait dominant and then start selecting for PVI?
I don't want to hijack anyone's post, so im not sure if you're asking me or not. I'm more than happy to help, or tell you how I do my breeding. I just didn't start this thread ?
 

BigPretzel

In Bloom
@Photon Pharms , please share your breeding techniques. I'm still confused on how this all works with autos. I have lots of questions similar to @BigPretzel. Thank you?.
My first question is why do I see some seeds listed as F1,F2 etc, but yet they are fems, shouldn't they be S1's ?
Just because it’s a fem doesn’t mean it should be an S1… the S refers to self and a lot of times when making fems the breeder will reverse one of the breeding stock to pollinate the other, now because your using two separate cultivars it is a new strain thus becoming being an F1, then to get a fem f2 they will take two keepers or whatever desires of the F1s and reverse one of those two then pollinate this creating a feminized f2 and so on and so forth. The only time it is an s1 or s2 is if they take cuts of a plant and decide to reverse one of those cuts and pollinate another one of the same cuts. Then they can take the S1 progeny and clone that then reverse those clones creating an s2.

And with autos they normally do a run and note which Pheno are which, then when they run it again they pic their keepers or breeders they want to reverse/continue on with if they cross two separate cultivars they are Fs. Then a selfed auto is an auto they reverse only a few branches of and let it pollinate itself or it will be two of the same strain and filial and they will reverse one and let it polinate another thus “selfing” that cultivar. hope that wasn’t too scatter brained.
 
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Frimpong

🔥Freak Genetics🔥
I was initially asking @Bobberr since they made the thread “auto breeding and techniques” but, tbh I’m open to anyone sharing some knowledge with me.
Wish I knew more about autos. I've made a few crosses and In my opinion you have to take them deep to get a consistent product both time wise and physically. F5 at least imo . Again This is just based off of my experience , which isnt a whole bunch . Especially making fems . I'm sure none of this helps lol , Hope you get the answer you're looking for brother. ?
 
Yeah, I'll be honest with you guys, as always, but it's a lot of work. Especially compared to photos. The inability to take "meaningful" clones is an obstacle that leads to some pretty creative shit. Hahaha. Now, by absolutely no means do I mean that photo breeding is inferior or easy, or even truly easier than auto breeding. We're all breeding cannabis. It is however different. You run, well, "I" run, a lot, a lot of plants. Like for instance, I know this was part of someone's question earlier, but if I have a cultivar, like my Juicy Fruit right now. I know at the filial I'm working with right, I am down to really, about three main phenos. But let's say I want to run the paint thinner pheno, like right now, against something. Well, I'd throw down probably 5-10 Juicy Fruit, (saying also that they are hard to identify pre flower, as that is obviously a way to pull specific phenos for breeding) but I'd reverse the ones out of those that I felt were "probably" it. Yeah, you, or I, burn through some sts. Adam loves me haha. I personally try to do a lot of work to any and all cultivars I want to work with to isolate them down to the best of my ability, pre crossing them with anything. It definitely has seemed to be beneficial for me. So like I love Queens Banner from night owl, that particular cultivar has a pretty solid 2-3 main phenos, not to hard to run one down and increase your odds tremendously. It again for me, has made things faster than running more and reversing. Plus you learn the line a lot better when you see a lot of these available autos, taken to F2 and beyond. Hope that helps. I'll check back in later and see if you have any other questions I can help with. Again, my apologies, I'm definitely not here to steal anyone's thunder or hijack a thread. The info from ? maybe it was(so sorry, I forget my own name half the time) but their info posted above is right on. With the filial gens, and selfing etc. Oh, and I should say, you do not need to reverse an entire plant, usually. Depending on cultivar, as some just don't like to produce pollen when reversed, but depending on your project, sometimes just one branch will be plenty. And yes, you can actually take a cutting and reverse that for ease of isolation. Timing plays a huge roll in how well that works out, with autos. Anyway, hope that gives you guys a little glimpse at what's going on upstairs. Haha. Much love and respect always my friends.
 

BigPretzel

In Bloom
Yeah, I'll be honest with you guys, as always, but it's a lot of work. Especially compared to photos. The inability to take "meaningful" clones is an obstacle that leads to some pretty creative shit. Hahaha. Now, by absolutely no means do I mean that photo breeding is inferior or easy, or even truly easier than auto breeding. We're all breeding cannabis. It is however different. You run, well, "I" run, a lot, a lot of plants. Like for instance, I know this was part of someone's question earlier, but if I have a cultivar, like my Juicy Fruit right now. I know at the filial I'm working with right, I am down to really, about three main phenos. But let's say I want to run the paint thinner pheno, like right now, against something. Well, I'd throw down probably 5-10 Juicy Fruit, (saying also that they are hard to identify pre flower, as that is obviously a way to pull specific phenos for breeding) but I'd reverse the ones out of those that I felt were "probably" it. Yeah, you, or I, burn through some sts. Adam loves me haha. I personally try to do a lot of work to any and all cultivars I want to work with to isolate them down to the best of my ability, pre crossing them with anything. It definitely has seemed to be beneficial for me. So like I love Queens Banner from night owl, that particular cultivar has a pretty solid 2-3 main phenos, not to hard to run one down and increase your odds tremendously. It again for me, has made things faster than running more and reversing. Plus you learn the line a lot better when you see a lot of these available autos, taken to F2 and beyond. Hope that helps. I'll check back in later and see if you have any other questions I can help with. Again, my apologies, I'm definitely not here to steal anyone's thunder or hijack a thread. The info from ? maybe it was(so sorry, I forget my own name half the time) but their info posted above is right on. With the filial gens, and selfing etc. Oh, and I should say, you do not need to reverse an entire plant, usually. Depending on cultivar, as some just don't like to produce pollen when reversed, but depending on your project, sometimes just one branch will be plenty. And yes, you can actually take a cutting and reverse that for ease of isolation. Timing plays a huge roll in how well that works out, with autos. Anyway, hope that gives you guys a little glimpse at what's going on upstairs. Haha. Much love and respect always my friends.
With your crosses, do they already have the autoflowering trait locked in? Like what I am wondering is If I take a Milk and Qookies f1 by night owl and i reverse a brsnch and use that pollen on an ogerberry f4 by twenty20 would the seeds be full autoflowers at an F1 at this point?
I have quite a few really interesting strains of autos and I’d like to do a couple projects I’ve had in the brainstorming phase for awhile now.
Because I am seeing alot of autos at an f1 being sold by night owl, Binary (ronin and Magic) have and I’m also seeing a lot of ppl on other platforms selling seeds that are f1 autos.
 
With your crosses, do they already have the autoflowering trait locked in? Like what I am wondering is If I take a Milk and Qookies f1 by night owl and i reverse a brsnch and use that pollen on an ogerberry f4 by twenty20 would the seeds be full autoflowers at an F1 at this point?
I have quite a few really interesting strains of autos and I’d like to do a couple projects I’ve had in the brainstorming phase for awhile now.
Because I am seeing alot of autos at an f1 being sold by night owl, Binary (ronin and Magic) have and I’m also seeing a lot of ppl on other platforms selling seeds that are f1 autos.
Go for it my friend. Have fun, that's the main thing. One thing I'd like to mention, I do make profit off my seed sales. In that, I personally have reached out to every breeder who's work I've used, prior to release, for their blessing, approval, hopefully a little knowledge if possible. I have had great success with that, most all have reached back out. Make a good try, not just one random email that may possibly get to them someday haha. But that's if you plan to to release for profit, and also just my personal opinion. I actually ended up making some decent friends that way, win win. But just have fun. Use your head, do some background research on why that specific cultivar you want to work with is what it is. What makes it that way, and, very very important, is the pheno you got before, desire, saw, whatever, is that even a common pheno. Is the line stable enough to even mess with out the gate. Questions like that will also help tremendously in saving time, money and effort. ?
 

UncleB

☀️🌵💨💨💨
Staff member
Moderator
Here's my autoflower conversion question:

I have an Anesia Auto Yuhbary (fem) pollinated by a Photoperiod Male Rainbow Wiggler. In trying to grow the progeny out into a consistent autoflowering variety, do I only select early/autoflowering descendants, or does the autoflowering genetics just take over with successive generations?
 
Here's my autoflower conversion question:

I have an Anesia Auto Yuhbary (fem) pollinated by a Photoperiod Male Rainbow Wiggler. In trying to grow the progeny out into a consistent autoflowering variety, do I only select early/autoflowering descendants, or does the autoflowering genetics just take over with successive generations?
OK, so here's where the fun begins. Make some room in your rooms haha. But seriously, you can't enough of those F1's. I, personally, would select in the F1 round, the pheno that best represents what you want as a final product. Not in the short day/long day classification as much as the actual plant and flower classification. You, most most likely, will not see an auto in F1's. Cross the male and female you like the best there, get to your F2s, and now start your search for auto flowering. There's some tricks of the trade to make very good use of space, time, and resources. We can get to that later, but from the F2 on you're looking for autos, that best represents your vision of the final product. You will, theoretically, be at full auto version at the F3, but I would highly recommend another Gen, to f4. I personally believe this is where some breeders drop the ball, and you see "MY AUTO DIDN'T AUTO" posts. Obviously, you can work the line beyond that point, with a solid backcross to help lock certain traits in, another filial Gen or two, isolating for what you want. Again, just have fun with it. Just remember, it takes a lot of space up. More than most are willing to sacrifice, understandably so as I believe cannabis breeders are pretty messed up, masochistic people hahaha. Joking, but it is a lot of work to get the good results, if your lucky. Haha. But I am here to help, to the best of my ability anyway. I still learn something new every day.
 

UncleB

☀️🌵💨💨💨
Staff member
Moderator
OK, so here's where the fun begins. Make some room in your rooms haha. But seriously, you can't enough of those F1's. I, personally, would select in the F1 round, the pheno that best represents what you want as a final product. Not in the short day/long day classification as much as the actual plant and flower classification. You, most most likely, will not see an auto in F1's. Cross the male and female you like the best there, get to your F2s, and now start your search for auto flowering. There's some tricks of the trade to make very good use of space, time, and resources. We can get to that later, but from the F2 on you're looking for autos, that best represents your vision of the final product. You will, theoretically, be at full auto version at the F3, but I would highly recommend another Gen, to f4. I personally believe this is where some breeders drop the ball, and you see "MY AUTO DIDN'T AUTO" posts. Obviously, you can work the line beyond that point, with a solid backcross to help lock certain traits in, another filial Gen or two, isolating for what you want. Again, just have fun with it. Just remember, it takes a lot of space up. More than most are willing to sacrifice, understandably so as I believe cannabis breeders are pretty messed up, masochistic people hahaha. Joking, but it is a lot of work to get the good results, if your lucky. Haha. But I am here to help, to the best of my ability anyway. I still learn something new every day.

Good info. Thank you.
Will be watching for the "tricks of the trade" post....?
 
Good info. Thank you.
Will be watching for the "tricks of the trade" post....?
Me too hahaha. I may have a few tricks, but they'd be for specific situations or whatever, rather than able to list them out. At least for me I mean. There are ways to "speed" certain situations up a bit and things like that. Legging your plants out a bit always seems to help(larger nodal spacing = easier to work in) keep me/us posted on your journey, and definitely, if you ever have a question or advice or whatever, give me a shout. I'll try my best to help you find the answer. Best of luck to you my friend, can't wait to see what you come up with!!!! ❤️??
 

thesunnyvalekid

Boutique Auto Service
Yeah, I'll be honest with you guys, as always, but it's a lot of work. Especially compared to photos. The inability to take "meaningful" clones is an obstacle that leads to some pretty creative shit. Hahaha. Now, by absolutely no means do I mean that photo breeding is inferior or easy, or even truly easier than auto breeding. We're all breeding cannabis. It is however different. You run, well, "I" run, a lot, a lot of plants. Like for instance, I know this was part of someone's question earlier, but if I have a cultivar, like my Juicy Fruit right now. I know at the filial I'm working with right, I am down to really, about three main phenos. But let's say I want to run the paint thinner pheno, like right now, against something. Well, I'd throw down probably 5-10 Juicy Fruit, (saying also that they are hard to identify pre flower, as that is obviously a way to pull specific phenos for breeding) but I'd reverse the ones out of those that I felt were "probably" it. Yeah, you, or I, burn through some sts. Adam loves me haha. I personally try to do a lot of work to any and all cultivars I want to work with to isolate them down to the best of my ability, pre crossing them with anything. It definitely has seemed to be beneficial for me. So like I love Queens Banner from night owl, that particular cultivar has a pretty solid 2-3 main phenos, not to hard to run one down and increase your odds tremendously. It again for me, has made things faster than running more and reversing. Plus you learn the line a lot better when you see a lot of these available autos, taken to F2 and beyond. Hope that helps. I'll check back in later and see if you have any other questions I can help with. Again, my apologies, I'm definitely not here to steal anyone's thunder or hijack a thread. The info from ? maybe it was(so sorry, I forget my own name half the time) but their info posted above is right on. With the filial gens, and selfing etc. Oh, and I should say, you do not need to reverse an entire plant, usually. Depending on cultivar, as some just don't like to produce pollen when reversed, but depending on your project, sometimes just one branch will be plenty. And yes, you can actually take a cutting and reverse that for ease of isolation. Timing plays a huge roll in how well that works out, with autos. Anyway, hope that gives you guys a little glimpse at what's going on upstairs. Haha. Much love and respect always my friends.
Love your insight my friend, very good info, thanks for the contribution.
 
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