Cloning under a led light...

[horribleherk]

I have never cloned under anything but a t-5 or a CFL I recently got this led of unknown power or color spectrum but its attached to the lid of this tote & I'm gonna give it a try I'll be using a Costco rotisserie chicken container for a dome along with rockwool cubes & a heat mat & schultz cloning powder nothing hi-tech here

 

[Skunky Dunk Farms]

I have never cloned under anything but a t-5 or a CFL I recently got this led of unknown power or color spectrum but its attached to the lid of this tote & I'm gonna give it a try I'll be using a Costco rotisserie chicken container for a dome along with rockwool cubes & a heat mat & schultz cloning powder nothing hi-tech here View attachment 47894View attachment 47895View attachment 47896

That light will probably work excellent for clones.
I use a daylight and a cool white 18 watt under counter flouecsent for clones and this last round i added a cool white led version.
The low wattage kicks but for cloning, just enough to keep them happy but not enough for robust foilage growth. Sit back and watch the hormones grow roots.

 

[horribleherk]

That light will probably work excellent for clones.
I use a daylight and a cool white 18 watt under counter flouecsent for clones and this last round i added a cool white led version.
The low wattage kicks but for cloning, just enough to keep them happy but not enough for robust foilage growth. Sit back and watch the hormones grow roots.

I usually have 100% success rate & this time I'm shooting for that as well I need 4 babies for next round in my 4x4 so it's important they all take I have a regular dome & a single 24" t-5 just trying this this round everything but the light I've used in the past with no issues we will see how this works some strains clone more readily than others I'm gonna most these with water about every 3 days

 

[BH]

does the led have a dimmer ( if no and no topic to raise the light 2x-3x higher than suggestion and gradually lower, but i would only do that if no dimmer) ? i would run the led at lowest setting intill 5-14 days in and once its confirmed it has starting roots, raise the intensity of the light gradually. than main concern with success on starting stage plants (clippings and seeds/seedlings) is that i would also suggest 78-86f in room and if you can't have a seedling heater and have it on a timer and run it for 50/50 like every 15 mins it turns off and every 15 minutes on. test first day and feel the tray to see how wet it is. i also always suggest making sure on rock wool or any starting stage cause they are so fragile to root based disease and bad fungi is make sure to use r/o or super clean water and make sure ur rock wool is being dipped in 5.5-5.8 ph

even the foliar spray should be clean water and have proper ph of what medium you use since it will retain such. it makes all the difference of 5-7 days root to 14-21 or sick/infected and slow duds .

another tip is once you trays or use them, always sterile them every run or right before cause that can def show a major issue if bad pathogens are there. i suggest pyhsan 20 (1.5 tablespoon per gal, pre clean surfaces with water than spray and wait 15 mins to kill majority of families of virus, molds and bad stuff you don't want and then final thing just re-rinse it pure water, same thing i try to do with my rez's for prevention )

 

[horribleherk]

does the led have a dimmer ( if no and no topic to raise the light 2x-3x higher than suggestion and gradually lower, but i would only do that if no dimmer) ? i would run the led at lowest setting intill 5-14 days in and once its confirmed it has starting roots, raise the intensity of the light gradually. than main concern with success on starting stage plants (clippings and seeds/seedlings) is that i would also suggest 78-86f in room and if you can't have a seedling heater and have it on a timer and run it for 50/50 like every 15 mins it turns off and every 15 minutes on. test first day and feel the tray to see how wet it is. i also always suggest making sure on rock wool or any starting stage cause they are so fragile to root based disease and bad fungi is make sure to use r/o or super clean water and make sure ur rock wool is being dipped in 5.5-5.8 ph

even the foliar spray should be clean water and have proper ph of what medium you use since it will retain such. it makes all the difference of 5-7 days root to 14-21 or sick/infected and slow duds .

another tip is once you trays or use them, always sterile them every run or right before cause that can def show a major issue if bad pathogens are there. i suggest pyhsan 20 (1.5 tablespoon per gal, pre clean surfaces with water than spray and wait 15 mins to kill majority of families of virus, molds and bad stuff you don't want and then final thing just re-rinse it pure water, same thing i try to do with my rez's for prevention )

The light has no dimmer & I cant read the wattage on the driver its attached to the lid of the tote everything is in so no adjustment the whole tote is in a spare room as its winter I'm running the heat mat

 

[horribleherk]

I've moved everything into a regular dome as I'm popping seeds as well but the 4 clones seem to be doing good but that being said if I have a problem its usually either the next day or in the second week

 

[BH]

What I would suggest is ethier figure out if there’s a optional dimmer for light you have , 2nd option is I would suggest is get a hlg 65 for “1st sage plants, meaning seedlings/cuttings” and if you get the 15 buck dimmer you can go from 10%-100% and start with like 10-15% at start and raise through the days or when your closing the cutting has rooted, than raise.

I run cmh for my 2nd stage light but since no dimmer and it gives me free heat for the led’s to work without having any issue . I run my seedlings/clippings under there and even first uppot from grodan cube to 1.5 inch pot for first 24hrs-week so there’s no stress , I e lost so ma y even when plant has good roots or healthy looking and the 2nd stage wipes em out the first day-2 because the plant isn’t ready for such. These preventive measure now saves my ass 100%

example of light I suggested ( I own 8 of em and love them 110%)

HLG 65 V2

HLG 65 V2 is ideal for a vegging or flowering in compact spaces. Equivalent to 120W T5 or 200W CFL output or 150W metal halide. Samsung LM301H LED

horticulturelightinggroup.com

dimmer for hlg 65, ultra easy to install and cheap
Amazon product ASIN B071NRKNJH

 

[horribleherk]

What I would suggest is ethier figure out if there’s a optional dimmer for light you have , 2nd option is I would suggest is get a hlg 65 for “1st sage plants, meaning seedlings/cuttings” and if you get the 15 buck dimmer you can go from 10%-100% and start with like 10-15% at start and raise through the days or when your closing the cutting has rooted, than raise.

I run cmh for my 2nd stage light but since no dimmer and it gives me free heat for the led’s to work without having any issue . I run my seedlings/clippings under there and even first uppot from grodan cube to 1.5 inch pot for first 24hrs-week so there’s no stress , I e lost so ma y even when plant has good roots or healthy looking and the 2nd stage wipes em out the first day-2 because the plant isn’t ready for such. These preventive measure now saves my ass 100%

example of light I suggested ( I own 8 of em and love them 110%)

HLG 65 V2

HLG 65 V2 is ideal for a vegging or flowering in compact spaces. Equivalent to 120W T5 or 200W CFL output or 150W metal halide. Samsung LM301H LED

horticulturelightinggroup.com

dimmer for hlg 65, ultra easy to install and cheap
Amazon product ASIN B071NRKNJH

I usually use my 4 bulb t-5 it's just I've got this tote setup for this 30in. led so everything stays compact I've got it in the house because my shop stays too cold

 

[horribleherk]

Day#9 two of the arcata clones have roots out the bottom of the cubes so I'm thinking this is gonna work I gave them a light feeding & cal mag this morning

 

[horribleherk]

All 4 have little root starts now I'm gonna get them into some pots next

 

[Lockedin]

Noob cloning question - why cut off the leaf tips?

 

[Frimpong]

Noob cloning question - why cut off the leaf tips?

I do it to save room and so I know what's new growth .

 

[Ramjet159]

Noob cloning question - why cut off the leaf tips?

It’s meant to then focus the plants growth to the roots and not foliage to speed up root development. It’s a theory like a lot of grow methods

 

[Frimpong]

I usually have 100% success rate & this time I'm shooting for that as well I need 4 babies for next round in my 4x4 so it's important they all take I have a regular dome & a single 24" t-5 just trying this this round everything but the light I've used in the past with no issues we will see how this works some strains clone more readily than others I'm gonna most these with water about every 3 days View attachment 47926View attachment 47927View attachment 47928View attachment 47929

I so the same thing w a tooth pick I just flip em upside down. ?

 

[horribleherk]

Noob cloning question - why cut off the leaf tips?

To save room & cut some weight off the main stalk I never used to do this but started doing it after seeing everyone else doing it & after trying it decided it worked out pretty good