Trichome check. Ready?

[DemonTrich]

Did you shade the overhead light and only use the scope light for identification?

How many clear are left? If no clear, then deffinately chop at will. If there's still 30-40% clear, gotta let her ride it out for a few more days and recheck.

For a visual reference, here's an auto I ran and chopped 4 days later from the pic being taken. It's hard to see what the trichomes look like.

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

Did you shade the overhead light and only use the scope light for identification?

How many clear are left? If no clear, then deffinately chop at will. If there's still 30-40% clear, gotta let her ride it out for a few more days and recheck.

For a visual reference, here's an auto I ran and chopped 4 days later from the pic being taken. It's hard to see what the trichomes look like.
View attachment 210024
View attachment 210025

I cranked the light down to minimum for the photos. And that reminds me, I neglected to turn it back up after the pics so I need to run and fix that. I'll look at the trichomes again when I go back upstairs.

 

[LG/]

Done is subjective.
A couple main schools of thought I use.

1- trichome development and hairs receeding/color. (Everyone has been clear with you on how to judge this)

2- plant has no nutrients left and is not going to do much more.

I think you might be close to the second standard. Abit early on the first. But there is a point IMHO where you take it down because it's not going to do much more. Signs of this include extreme fan leaf fade and drop, and sugar leaves turning yellow/purple/fading. Your out of nutes, plants processing is slowing and its as done as its gonna reasonable get.

Imho I think the first plant is close enough to standard 1 and probably meets standard two to the point of taking it down.
The second plant has a ways to go. 2 weeks I'm guessing until it's at the same point as plant one. ...

Some better photos would help. Most people post all sorts of different zoom/focus levels of the plant, just sending us macros is not ideal. Back out, send a pic of the branch, the whole plant, the whole plant in the tent... more is better. But from different zoom perspectives please.

And if you haven't already, post your medium, light, tent/grow area. We can get you setup for success, we just need all the info, and for you to be willing to learn. If you keep growing you'll look back in 5 years and realize everyone on here is telling you the truth.
Feel free to confirm elsewhere. But be aware of confirmation bias, you seem to be looking for information that backs up what you already think instead of just accepting how it is.

There it is. Something seems to be limiting your grow here, again imho. Let's troubleshoot that if your willing.

This is the most common newbie question and the answer is almost always they need more time. It wont magically change when you harvest, it should look like a dank frosty finished bud at harvest. Only thing that happens is it might shrink abit as it dries.

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

Done is subjective.
A couple main schools of thought I use.

1- trichome development and hairs receeding/color. (Everyone has been clear with you on how to judge this)

2- plant has no nutrients left and is not going to do much more.

I think you might be close to the second standard. Abit early on the first. But there is a point IMHO where you take it down because it's not going to do much more. Signs of this include extreme fan leaf fade and drop, and sugar leaves turning yellow/purple/fading. Your out of nutes, plants processing is slowing and its as done as its gonna reasonable get.

Imho I think the first plant is close enough to standard 1 and probably meets standard two to the point of taking it down.
The second plant has a ways to go. 2 weeks I'm guessing until it's at the same point as plant one. ...

Some better photos would help. Most people post all sorts of different zoom/focus levels of the plant, just sending us macros is not ideal. Back out, send a pic of the branch, the whole plant, the whole plant in the tent... more is better. But from different zoom perspectives please.

And if you haven't already, post your medium, light, tent/grow area. We can get you setup for success, we just need all the info, and for you to be willing to learn. If you keep growing you'll look back in 5 years and realize everyone on here is telling you the truth.
Feel free to confirm elsewhere. But be aware of confirmation bias, you seem to be looking for information that backs up what you already think instead of just accepting how it is.

There it is. Something seems to be limiting your grow here, again imho. Let's troubleshoot that if your willing.

This is the most common newbie question and the answer is almost always they need more time. It wont magically change when you harvest, it should look like a dank frosty finished bud at harvest. Only thing that happens is it might shrink abit as it dries.

I appreciate your words. I absolutely am working to learn more and yes, I have paid attention to what has been said about trichomes. That video someone shared earlier in the thread talked about using multiple visual cues to determine if a plant is ready, not just one, and that's where I am right now. I have also been noticing clues with the plants that they, as autos, are basically near the end of their lifecycle because of leaves lightening, etc.

The soil is some stuff we mixed up last year with Nectar for the Gods soil mixed with coco coir and a few other things my wife used to amend it. A modest portion of the soil was reused, mixing it with mostly unused stuff in the pot. This is the last time I'll use any of that soil, I picked up some fresh stuff last week for the next grow. For nutes I've been on the Botanicare train; PBP (separate versions for veg and flower), cal-mag, and hydroguard. The tent, as of today, is about 80-81 degrees and about 45% humidity. I am very limited in that room on electrical supply in both outlets and capacity on that circuit so I can't do too much with dehumidifiers/humidifiers, etc.

I use LED quantum light boards and use an app on my phone to measure the PPFD/brightness, aiming for roughly 1000 PPFD at the tops of the plant. I'm asking as often as I am, about a week since my last comment and photos, because I want to try to make sure I don't rush it. I started off saying that I was aiming for more CBN, but during the course of this thread I had my blood labs done and my oncologist noted my numbers are creeping up enough that he wants to move me into a different round of treatment. That changed my thought process from looking for more CBN to looking to optimize the THC for fighting cancer. CBN does help slow proliferation of cancer cells, but it's the THC that kills them.
I mentioned this before but these are short plants, that was intentional. I thought I might finish them in the 2x2x4 tent but when I cut what I had in the 3x3 tent a month ago I decided to move these over. I popped new beans earlier this week for the next round, I should have done that weeks ago.

Here are a couple pics of the full plants I just took.




On the second plant you can see where I had to tie up one of the branches a week ago because that branch was bending under the weight.

 

[LG/]

I appreciate your words. I absolutely am working to learn more and yes, I have paid attention to what has been said about trichomes. That video someone shared earlier in the thread talked about using multiple visual cues to determine if a plant is ready, not just one, and that's where I am right now. I have also been noticing clues with the plants that they, as autos, are basically near the end of their lifecycle because of leaves lightening, etc.

The soil is some stuff we mixed up last year with Nectar for the Gods soil mixed with coco coir and a few other things my wife used to amend it. A modest portion of the soil was reused, mixing it with mostly unused stuff in the pot. This is the last time I'll use any of that soil, I picked up some fresh stuff last week for the next grow. For nutes I've been on the Botanicare train; PBP (separate versions for veg and flower), cal-mag, and hydroguard. The tent, as of today, is about 80-81 degrees and about 45% humidity. I am very limited in that room on electrical supply in both outlets and capacity on that circuit so I can't do too much with dehumidifiers/humidifiers, etc.

I use LED quantum light boards and use an app on my phone to measure the PPFD/brightness, aiming for roughly 1000 PPFD at the tops of the plant. I'm asking as often as I am, about a week since my last comment and photos, because I want to try to make sure I don't rush it. I started off saying that I was aiming for more CBN, but during the course of this thread I had my blood labs done and my oncologist noted my numbers are creeping up enough that he wants to move me into a different round of treatment. That changed my thought process from looking for more CBN to looking to optimize the THC for fighting cancer. CBN does help slow proliferation of cancer cells, but it's the THC that kills them.
I mentioned this before but these are short plants, that was intentional. I thought I might finish them in the 2x2x4 tent but when I cut what I had in the 3x3 tent a month ago I decided to move these over. I popped new beans earlier this week for the next round, I should have done that weeks ago.

Here are a couple pics of the full plants I just took.

View attachment 210047
View attachment 210048

On the second plant you can see where I had to tie up one of the branches a week ago because that branch was bending under the weight.

Great, that helps. I hear you and that all makes sense to me.

I'd harvest in stages. The first plant I'd take down the colas now, the most yellow/faded top parts.

Think of it like a car running out of gas (car is the plant, nutrients are the gas). You can push the car and make it abit further, but it will be insignificant compared to the distance you'd go if it were running.

Just my opinion. Certainly interested to see what others say. Don't go just based on what I say.

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

Great, that helps. I hear you and that all makes sense to me.

I'd harvest in stages. The first plant I'd take down the colas now, the most yellow/faded top parts.

Think of it like a car running out of gas (car is the plant, nutrients are the gas). You can push the car and make it abit further, but it will be insignificant compared to the distance you'd go if it were running.

Just my opinion. Certainly interested to see what others say. Don't go just based on what I say.

Today after I read your comment, and no one else was pitching in, I examined the plants again and decided to just cut those whole first plant. Most of it was close enough to the top buds, like I said, it's a small plant originally I intended to finish in a 4' high tent, so there really wasn't all that much variation. The second one gets a few more days, but it does seem to be getting there noticeably more each day at this point.

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

How different can two plants be? That's what I'm thinking right now. I planted two autos from the same strain (at least I still assume they are!) and they're about as different as day and night. Or am I just that much of a newb on phenotypes? The first plant I cut 9 days ago. The second plant is about 10" taller, the leaves are lighter, and at this point I'm still not seeing amber. That said, the leaves look like they're about done on this little girl. Thoughts?




I'm patient, but I am starting to wonder.

 

[Mr Jay]

the leaves look like they're about done on this little girl. Thoughts?

Towards the final weeks a plant can nearly stop drinking. With all the fan leaves off, I would have trouble reading the plant.
I rely on the lower fans to tell me that it is time to water.

If the plant gets a little bit dry the bottom leaves will fall off. If the plant gets really dry a yellow wave will shrivel its way up the plant.

Confusingly enough, chronic over water can look the same. Roots get the trench foot and leaves crust up.

Not just harp'n, I think it may relate to the topic at hand.
Either of these moisture events can cause Ph issues, lockouts, compromised roots,,, and sputter.
Like in the old days, with carburetors. The cold choke comes off too quick, I mash on the gas and for some reason that car seems momentarily dead - dead. Then suddenly, the beast roars back to life!
These trichome stocks start maturing as soon as they appear. If the conditions are right, it's going to grow a bunch more of them, and they will also need time to mature.
I have had plans gracefully heading towards the grave, when suddenly they pop a new fleshy white afro on top. It happens when I accidentally give juvenile food to geriatric plants.

They WANT to reproduce. That is why they are making flowers, and given the opportunity, they will.

I admit, I haven't been following closely enough.
This is just a snapshot.
It it possible there could be some start- stop- start going on ?
Giving you some mixed messages?

I would be really curious to see what that root ball looks like.

 

[LG/]

How different can two plants be? That's what I'm thinking right now. I planted two autos from the same strain (at least I still assume they are!) and they're about as different as day and night. Or am I just that much of a newb on phenotypes? The first plant I cut 9 days ago. The second plant is about 10" taller, the leaves are lighter, and at this point I'm still not seeing amber. That said, the leaves look like they're about done on this little girl. Thoughts?

View attachment 210722
View attachment 210723
View attachment 210724
I'm patient, but I am starting to wonder.

Hey buddy, I'd say go ahead anytime based on the same thing I said before. Once there are no leaves I feel the plant naturally slows to a halt as far as maturation goes. But I could be wrong. I really don't like the sugar leaves turning yellow, once that happens I chop. But that may just be my own thing. It generally shows the plant isn't as healthy as it should be late in its life cycle.

Yes phenotypic variation can vary greatly. In f1 genes or similar fem version it can open up the genetic lineage, random traits can come out mixed with anything else. In this case flowering time based on phenos.

I'd say the strain you grew does not breed true.
Something that breeds true will have uniform consistent phenotypes.

All just my opinion, I'm no expert but I think I know some things. Always open to being corrected tho.

If I were you I'd move towards an organic dry amendment based feeding program, find a simple two/three part to use (I like roots organic uprising grow and bloom, plus elemental), get a good microbe population in the soil and then fine tune how much to amend and top dressing.

Just my opinion. That's the simplest method I know that gives great results.

Also essential, source good genetics.
If you insist on autos, Photon Farms or Mephisto are the only breeders I know that almost everyone says good things about for autos. But id move towards non auto fem seeds, abit more leniency with feeding and getting them the size you want. As far as height restrictions, just topping should be plenty of training to keep most hybrids short.
If you have any question or want any help at all, just ask. People on here will step up and help, I guarantee that.

Peace

 

[LG/]

$90 shipped, these 4 would cover everything the plant needs imho.
On a budget, skip elemental and potentially skip foundation too.
You can get by with just grow and bloom. Just those two shipped were around $42

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

Towards the final weeks a plant can nearly stop drinking. With all the fan leaves off, I would have trouble reading the plant.
I rely on the lower fans to tell me that it is time to water.

If the plant gets a little bit dry the bottom leaves will fall off. If the plant gets really dry a yellow wave will shrivel its way up the plant.

Confusingly enough, chronic over water can look the same. Roots get the trench foot and leaves crust up.

Not just harp'n, I think it may relate to the topic at hand.
Either of these moisture events can cause Ph issues, lockouts, compromised roots,,, and sputter.
Like in the old days, with carburetors. The cold choke comes off too quick, I mash on the gas and for some reason that car seems momentarily dead - dead. Then suddenly, the beast roars back to life!
These trichome stocks start maturing as soon as they appear. If the conditions are right, it's going to grow a bunch more of them, and they will also need time to mature.
I have had plans gracefully heading towards the grave, when suddenly they pop a new fleshy white afro on top. It happens when I accidentally give juvenile food to geriatric plants.

They WANT to reproduce. That is why they are making flowers, and given the opportunity, they will.

I admit, I haven't been following closely enough.
This is just a snapshot.
It it possible there could be some start- stop- start going on ?
Giving you some mixed messages?

I would be really curious to see what that root ball looks like.

You could easily be correct, and I plead guilty to being so focused day-by-day on watching for the time to chop that I sorta pushed those issues to the back of my mind. Either way, I'm thinking this girl has given it all she's got and it's time to hang her to dry.

 

[BH]

$90 shipped, these 4 would cover everything the plant needs imho.
On a budget, skip elemental and potentially skip foundation too.
You can get by with just grow and bloom. Just those two shipped were around $42
View attachment 210730

100% agreed !

been a costumer using uprising and terp tea for many years both veggies and cannabis . I agree to avoid foundation and elemental for cost reasons. I suggest to use an alt to elemental that’s way cheaper and same thing but no fish protein . It’s super close to same % in calc/mag

what I call “diy elemental “ it’s powder like elemental and same ratio, I apply at same np

Amazon.com

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

$90 shipped, these 4 would cover everything the plant needs imho.
On a budget, skip elemental and potentially skip foundation too.
You can get by with just grow and bloom. Just those two shipped were around $42
View attachment 210730

I've been using the stuff from Botanicare and still have quite a bit left. Do you think this is that much better?

 

[LG/]

I've been using the stuff from Botanicare and still have quite a bit left. Do you think this is that much better?

The granular stuff from Botanicare?
Never used it but I bet their similar enough.

But if it's liquid nutes.
Liquid organic nutes never worked well for me. I assume ph problems are to blame. Or just not a well established microbe population. But I wouldn't use em again. Just my opinion.

Just the grow and bloom from ro uprising line is like $43 shipped. Doesn't get much cheaper than that, and they are good enough to use just those.

You can keep using the botanicare stuff you have, but the plants ran out of nutrients (fuel) before fully finishing (crossing the finish line). Keep that in mind for your next grow. They might take longer than you think and need more nutrients.

The key to organics with dry amendments- a good healthy soil microbe population, and planning ahead for what the plant needs in each stage of life.

Try to improve with each grow and you'll be a pro in short order.

 

[UrbanHillbilly]

No, I'm not asking for a trichome check on this one. Awhile back I popped 5 Blue Jello seeds and wouldn't you know, 4 of them were males. So I took a few clones of this one girl which are coming along nicely in my veg tent and this lonely girl is finishing out. Last Wednesday the 15th was week 10, but I'd say she has a couple weeks left to go. It's always fun to watch the frost forming on these beauties.

 

[Mr Jay]

clones ,,,, are coming along nicely

That is awesome.

a couple weeks left to go

Good show, man.
That looks great.