Anybody with experience mixing their own nutrients?


With my current nutrient stash getting low I want to try something new, I grow mostly with coco but I plan on utilizing an ebb and flow or DTW setup soon.

I want to get into mixing my own nutrients using a calculator or simply attempting to copy tried and true N-P-K values from nutrient companies.

I believe I will be able to save money in the long run and would like to ask if anybody here as any insight they could provide or maybe point me in the right direction.

I found a chart online that I used to take my ingredients from.

This was posted almost a decade ago but I doubt much has changed.

One thing I noticed is that there is now an abundance of chelated versions of these nutrients, most of which I hope to use.

Here's what I have so far.


and the micros:

Following the chart I plan on purchasing the following.

Calcium Nitrate (Nitrogen)(Calcium)
Monopotassium Phosphate (Phosphorus)(Potassium)
Magnesium Sulfate (Magnesium)(Sulfur)

Boric acid (Boron)
Iron chelate (Iron)
Manganese chelate (Manganese)
Copper chelate (Copper)
Zinc chelate (Zinc)
Sodium molybdate (Molybdenum)

I'll add more onto this as I go along.


In Bloom
While I can't add anything to this, before my hiatus I was heavily looking into this. There's an old thread on the farm that discusses using salts to save on cost and actually grow healthier plants because of the ability to customize every single macro/micro throughout the entire life cycle.

Tagging along to see what you come up with. The math is pretty easy once you wrap your head around it, and what antagonizes what or locks out what, etc. Pretty interesting subject for sure.


Tilts at Tables
Stump Remover, Triple phosphate, Muriate (Yes, I am antiquated) of Potash.
Ran a planted aquarium on that for years.

Spot feeding is tough. Many of my solutions were soil building exercises. CEC and chelation is tricky business.
Some of these processes take time. A 'responsible' label for Humic supplements will explicitly state the product lacks sufficient dwell time to be effective in hydroponic systems.
I can add a paper clip or two, to my soil- eventually the plants will eat it. However Iron has a more than a few states, and not all are uptake'able for plants.

Don't be tempted to reinvent the wheel.
,,.and dont let me dissuade you. I discovered the magic of ammonical nitrogen, travelling this path.
Im with jewels on this one, the cost of dry salts pre mixed like jacks for instance are ready to rock and roll for cents per gallon, that level of micro mixing by plant stage may be overkill, the plant will eat what its lacking if said nutrient is available, so a complete mix used properly should fulfill the plants needs throughout its life, it will leave what it doesnt want and take what it does basically. Totally my opinion this is all subjective, if you have the means to try it out and it interests you have at it sir ???


Tilts at Tables
2 : 1.5 : 3

I approximated this recipe in an aquarium. An ammonical constituent will help to address hard water. Use cation there, if using RO.

It grew plants faster than weed.
That is a garbage bag full.
I have never sold my own dope.
Made some good coins off of "Rotala Indica"
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