@NobigHurry
Uv?
you asked about my uv schedule. I keep them on same as other led light schedule when on. i turn them on once i see buds , around final days of stretch. inless im misreading what ur saying i think u got uvb not uva.
im using uva led ( 3 hlg, 2 rapid led ) , not uvb (thats whay ur using )Why? = theres many claims of better quality and more yields on uvb added but i also have seen more harm and need of monocropping the room to be successful to be honest. reason I’m saying this is like running ur lights and other stuff at highest rate some ( keyword some) can achieve and use without cons but also running add on’s or things that stimulate stress responses can be like I said pheno successful and many like higher ppfd/stress inducing will not be a pro in anyway. i also advice anyone who does these things the first trial to do it in lowest levels and time suggested and make sure their canopy/height suggestion is correct .
I didn’t even want to invest into uva till I put god knows how much into my enviroment, stability of medium and water/air quality guratees. plus it’s all about genetics and if it’s multiple or u don’t know them on their stability or how they respond. It’s all an extra guessing game of are u doing more harm than good. for me I even after 3rd week( just switched light controllers today actually ) from 12on/12off to 11on/13off and raised the leds dim from 75% to 90-100%, ive seen some of the best crops done this way with more ppfd and more time off vs same amount of ppfd and 12/12 from mid flower-end. plants know their cycle and many really I see after multi runs perfer this cycling. Same with after 5-7th week turning down ppfd of led, follow ppfd with co2 and temps by gradually lowering . once under 78f make co2 700ppm ( same level as od ) , than gradually lower more till last 2 weeks ur under 68f at least . Like fruit Industry and many ag I will even lower or even keep plants in dark cycle last 4 days and also last two week only give water and sugars with min npk or add on’s. Key is to let the plant tell yeah when it’s dieing also by you’ll see her dieing off by her drinking levels but also color. Shoot j could be over feeding and they still will fall out
back to topic, be careful and know ur stability of how you grow so when u add on new things. You’ll know what’s the differances but also can catch it if you see the modes of action are not positive . I was gonnea do uvb at once but more I saw experts disagreeing but also other growrs having to be selective it wasn’t for me. I run way too much and don’t need anymore things that could damage end result. Shoot I feel like I’m already taking em to limits without that.
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- Ultraviolet A (UVA) is from 320-400nm and comprises about 3% of the photons in natural sunlight that make it through Earth's atmosphere. UVA lights for plants do not damage DNA.
- Ultraviolet B (UVB) is from 290-320nm and makes up less than 0.15% -- less than 1/5th of 1% -- of total natural sunlight. UVB light is energetic enough to cause damage to DNA, including inducing cancer in animals. Luckily for us, the Earth's ozone layer blocks almost all of the sun's UVB light.
- Ultraviolet C (UVC) is from 100-290nm and is almost completely filtered out by Earth's atmosphere, so is not a component of natural sunlight. UVC light is energetic enough that it is used for sterilization purposes-- it kills living cells.”
UV light for plants are split into 3 categories based on wavelength: Ultraviolet A (UVA) is from 320-400nm and comprises about 3% of the photons in natural sunlight that make it through Earth's atmosphere. UVA lights for plants do not damage DNA. Ultraviolet B (UVB) is from 290-320nm and makes...
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