Blue Star OG pheno hunt winner in a PPK system

greyfader

In Bloom
i recently conducted a pheno hunt of BlueStarSeedco's cross of Blue Star x Triangle Kush. This consisted of 50 seeds of which 48 popped within 2 days. 36 were selected and of these 12 were flowered.

they all had good potency but this one has great potency and the strongest flavor profile. citrus fuel up front with a floral perfume back.

they were transplanted from 2.5 quart passive wick-fed containers into an active powered ppk system yesterday morning.

i hope you enjoy the show!
 

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greyfader

In Bloom
today marks 2 weeks since the transplant so i thought i would show the progress.

both plants, then i have the reflectix covers off of the pots to check root growth.

then two of the sophisticated control module consisting of 2 of these.

Amazon product

these have repeat cycle capability and have been quite reliable. best of all, they are cheap.

one fires 2 eco 185 pumps connected to the 2 halos. they deliver 1/2 gal in 15 seconds every 2 hours. total run time 3 minutes per day.

the other fires 2 magdrive 700's one in each pool crossing over to the other pool. they exchange 1/2 the solution in each pool every 2 hours in one minute for a total run time of 12 minutes per day. the hoses are submerged at both ends maintaining a siphon that equalizes the solution level at 3". These are 5 ft kiddie pools from walmart.

the medium is #2 perlite and has been used several times. i float it in a pool to clean it and eliminate fines.

these are 7 gal feed tubs from tractor supply.

there is approximately 6 gals of perlite and 3 lbs of worm castings in each. there is also an 18 oz solo cup full of diatomaceous earth mixed into the medium. diatomaceous earth is amorphous silicon dioxide and is plant-available and taken up by the roots.

perlite alone has no cec but these two substances provide a substantial cec so the solution is well buffered.

the mix comes out to about 30% air-filled porosity and is free-flowing yet retains water well.

there is a float valve in each pool being fed by an elevated 30-gallon Rubbermaid brute trash can.

the first 12 days i used a 1.4 ec nutrient solution and about 700 umols of light then brought the ec up to 1.8 and the light to 1000 umols. i'm giving them 6 hours on and 6 hours off around the clock but alternating so only one is on at a time but the room is never dark.

the pots are 7 inches above the bottom of the pools and with a 3" solution level there is maintained a 4" air gap between the bottom of the pots and the solution. there is a 3" diameter tube extending from the pot into the solution below. this tube is also filled with perlite and draws solution upward between top watering events. the tube positively drains the perched water table immediately after each pulsed delivery of solution leaving no standing water in the pot.

the top of the medium is 13" above the floor.

the next 3 pics show how the pots are built.

i use Jack's 3-2-1 formula as a base with 1 ml gal of mr fulvic and a heaping tsp of kelp powder per each 30 gals. ph down is 85% phosphoric acid. ph and ec are extremely stable throughout the grow.

i do not dump any solution during a grow. it is all input only. a recirculating, closed, soilless system known as the PPK.

the lights are 1008 watts each made from household light bulbs with the diffusers cut off. in veg i run 5000k only through stretch up to the end of the third week of flower.

i then use all 2700k warm whites with incandescent bulbs to supply more dark red, far-red, and some infrared.

the last pic shows the approximate spectral distribution of the combined warm whites and the incandescents.

that's all folks!
 

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greyfader

In Bloom
Your system is totally impressive greyfader. It's like the Photo of the Month winner - I just look at it and think "Wow".
thank you so much for the kind words! The PPK system was invented by my alter ego, Delta9nxs. i had been growing for 13 years by 2009, all hydro. trying every type of system out there except for aeroponics. they all had flaws. the roots in the water types, like dwc, rdwc, undercurrent, bio-buckets, etc. could kill your crop rapidly in the case of power failures and were critically dependent on solution temperature control to maintain adequate o2 levels and aeration. EC and PH drifting all over the place needing constant correction. they all required heavy continuous movement of water with water or air pumps running all the time. NFT has serious problems with hydro slime and needs pumps running full time. flood and drain where the roots are out of the solution and temporarily submerged is the most reliable but has problems with flooding and draining through the same constricted plumbing. in this device, nothing happens when the power or pumps fail. the tube back feeds the plant via capillary rise. it just won't grow as fast as it does with the power on. you can still hand-water the plants from the reservoir for while to maintain circulation but don't have to.

I had a liver transplant in 2009, and while recovering in the hospital I had one of those epiphanic moments. I realized that some of the roots could be continuously submerged and won't drown if most of the roots were not in the solution. you could have a 24/7 hydraulic connection to the reservoir full of water and nutrients, and by keeping most of the roots in the medium out of the solution, massive amounts of o2 as well.

I did the math one time and if you take two identical containers, one full of water and one full of ambient air, at sea level and 68F, the one full of air will have 23,300 times more free o2 molecules than the water-filled container.

another aspect of this is that to get enough free O2 molecules in the water container you must run it at cool temperatures like 68F or get root rot because the solution will become anaerobic if you don't. temperature is the second most powerful regulator of plant growth after light. in this device, temperature doesn't matter because you are deriving O2 from ambient air, not water. the solution could be totally anaerobic and the plant will grow just fine. so warm water temperatures are desirable. my reservoirs in this grow run around 78-82F and are not aerated. no airstones, no continuously running pumps. because of the indifference to temperature, it is the only recirculating closed circuit system that will work just fine outdoors in 100F heat. if you are not putting a bio-demand on the solution for O2 it will naturally stay aerobic because of atmospheric partial pressures.

airstones can wreak havoc with PH especially if you are running co2 because they inject co2 into the solution where it becomes carbonic acid and radically drops PH. it's okay if you factor it in while adjusting PH to the desired level but as soon as the power goes off it reverses and PH shoots upward.

i started out with passive wick fed via a tube like you see here and it worked fine and grew beautiful but small plants. but when I started top watering by hand regularly in addition to sub-irrigating via the wick the plants got significantly larger faster.

so then I went to timed, pulsed, top watering by pumps in addition to the sub-irrigation and things blew up. by pulsed I mean not a steady drip but putting a slug of solution out in a short time frame then stopping until the next event. in this grow I get 1/2 gal in 15 seconds every two hours. pumps on 3 minutes per day. gravity propels the slug of water through the root zone like a piston in an engine.

i realized a steady drip creates a splash zone on the surface but then tends to reform into a column sub-surface propelled by gravity and can channel through the medium instead of spreading creating wet and dry zones.

microscopically, water resists going into dry and jumps to wet. By keeping the medium in a nearly perfect balance of wet and air-filled porosity you can create an almost perfect interface of water, nutrients, air, and roots.

you never let the medium dry down. the tube positively drains the perched water table that occurs in conventional pots immediately after watering. in the conventional pot, you must wait for the medium to dry down before watering again or you will drown the plant. because we can eliminate the perched water table there are no restrictions on watering if you use a porous medium.

the frequent watering corrects root zone EC and PH on every pass, it also introduces fresh O2 and expells old gases. it disrupts the naturally forming water retention curve that forms after watering a plant once the medium drains to the point where gravity stops and the perched water table forms, the retention curve is drier at the top and wetter at the bottom. by disrupting it frequently you are keeping a better moisture profile and roots grow equally throughout the medium, taking more advantage of pot space. in a purely top-watered container nutrient salts accumulate in the bottom of the container. in a purely bottom-watered container, the salts accumulate in the top of the container. salt accumulation causes pH drift and nutrient imbalance within the container. in this device, there is no accumulation and the salts stay in solution.

i have been using this system for 14 years and have been refining it and simplifying it. It virtually operates itself. all I do is check to make sure the feed tank doesn't run dry although you can let it do so for a while if you want to. you can use the elevated mixing tank to steer the solution and control both the PH and EC in the recirculating part of the system.

you will harvest every plant you put in it if you don't get bugs.

I began growing because I was sick and could not get high-quality medicine unless I produced it myself. I could have patented the idea and sold it to some big corporation but I decided to give it away so that folks could easily and reliably grow their own medicine. It is not a specific build but rather a flow pattern that can be built in any size. I have a friend who grows in a little armoire using the idea and I have plumbed out 10k sq ft warehouses with it. i had a 3500 sq ft facility in Oregon for 5 years producing 2.5 to 3.5 lb plants. I just turned 73 yesterday and no longer grow commercially personally but function as a consultant. i have helped set up giant greenhouses and open-field operations using the flow pattern. one time we used a big concrete pad where a building had burned down. no dirt to use. it works in desert conditions where the soil is too alkaline and there is not much water.

well, enough for now! i don't mind answering questions and enjoy helping people grow. later
 

doober

In Bloom
I had a liver transplant in 2009, and while recovering in the hospital I had one of those epiphanic moments. I realized that some of the roots could be continuously submerged and won't drown if most of the roots were not in the solution. you could have a 24/7 hydraulic connection to the reservoir full of water and nutrients, and by keeping most of the roots in the medium out of the solution, massive amounts of o2 as well.

Thanks for that detailed explanation greyfader. Amazing work.

You know you're a grower when you're in the hospital recovering from a liver transplant and you have an epiphany about a better way for you to grow :)
 

greyfader

In Bloom
today is 3 weeks since the transplant from the 2.5-quart containers to these 7-gal ones.

i'm going to flower them now. i was going to wait another week but i will be moving out of this house by the !st of december so i need them done by then.

i've decided to use the 12/12 schedule this time instead of the 8/16 that i used in the pheno hunt.

just a few pics to show the progress. they are visually perfect. no spots or yellowing or signs of any nutrient disorders.

i've taken 12 clones, 6 from each plant, from the bottom branches. they have been fed 1000 ppm or ec2 and given 1000 umols of light for the last 9 days.

they are strong, vigorous plants.
 

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greyfader

In Bloom
well, it's time for the weekend update. my, how time flies!

this is 4 weeks from the transplant from 2.5 quart to 7 gal containers. in flower one week.

the conditions are;

light 1450-1500 umols for 12 hours = 62+ moles, no co2. all 5000k

950 ppm or ec1.9 in the reservoirs

ph 6.2

air temperature 82-84f lights on 75F lights off. RH 60-70%.

if you look closely you can see some slight leaf variegation. Josh from BlueStarSeedCo says the original blueberry displayed this.

this was the only plant to display variegation out of the 12 i flowered in the pheno hunt.
 

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greyfader

In Bloom
another week has gone by. we are at the end of week 2 of flower. i've just finished a training session and they haven't turned toward the light yet.

this is a 9-10 week strain so about 1.5 weeks to go for stretch.
 

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greyfader

In Bloom
today is the end of week 3 of flower and 6 weeks from the transplant into the system.

reservoir condidtions are 1000ppm or ec2 and ph is 6.2. water temp is 73f.

i've done most of the training and thinning. tomorrow i'll change the bulbs from 5000k to 2700k and add 6 25 watt incandescents.
 

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doober

In Bloom
i just changed out the 5000k for the 2700k+incandescent on one of the fixtures and thought some of you might like to see the difference in color temp.

today is the end of week 3 of flower and 6 weeks from the transplant into the system.

reservoir condidtions are 1000ppm or ec2 and ph is 6.2. water temp is 73f.

i've done most of the training and thinning. tomorrow i'll change the bulbs from 5000k to 2700k and add 6 25 watt incandescents.
Greyfader - Do you generally switch from 5000 to 2700 at the end of week 3 of flower, or is your timing of the switch more strain dependent due to stretch time of the strain ?
 

greyfader

In Bloom
Greyfader - Do you generally switch from 5000 to 2700 at the end of week 3 of flower, or is your timing of the switch more strain dependent due to stretch time of the strain ?
actually, this is only the second time i've done a complete changeout. i picked the end of week 3 because it is near the end of the stretch.

i consider the stretch phase to be an extension of veg and i believe keeping the 5000k light on them while training and thinning helps keep the nodes nice and tight. i did this complete changeout in the pheno hunt for the first time. previously i used 1/3 5000k and 2/3 2700k without incandescents at the switch to flower before the stretch phase.

over the last few years, i have used these two color temps in about every % ratio you can think of.

i just took a couple of pics real fast to show how tight the nodes are. i find that a slow, continuous picking or defoliating of the largest, fully expanded fan leaves also increases the ramification and shortens internodal distances.
 

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greyfader

In Bloom
update time again! end of week 4 of flower. just a few pics to show progress.

light at 1200 umols for 12 hours. approx 50-52 mols per period. lights on room temp 82f at 55% rh

reservoir 1050 ppm at ph 6.0 temp 78f.
 

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