can you help with yellow leaves during flower?

[phenophile]

i am growing feminized white widow (not sure of vendor), in soil, using plant magic old timers grow and bloom. this is my second grow with the same genetics under the same conditions and both times around week 4-5 of flower my leaves started to go yellow, starting at the tips, followed by spots and eventually the tips burn. it does not happen to lower leaves first, it seems to be mostly bigger, older leaves, but it does also show up on other leaves, somewhat randomly.
i am feeding at 100% according to the schedule. i am only using grow (5-3-3) and bloom (3-5-4), i am not using any other feed on the schedule. i think it might be a potassium or phosphorus deficiency because i am not using the pk 4-8, but it doesn't really seem to match up with pictures online. same for possible magnesium deficiency.
any ideas what this could be? i have attached a picture of one of the worst leaves at week 7 of flower, along with the feeding schedule i am following.
any help would be appreciated. thank you.

 

[webeblzr]

Hey Phenophile,
I found this on UK420, it's a post by OT1, way back 2004, but as I read it, I think your answer is in there.
I myself, wander between the the land of organics, and salt fertilizers, with the evangelical users on either side, barking at my and my bastard ways.
I use either regimen how I want to, I do not take sides.
My gut reaction was to say some of these words OT1 has posted up. But I'd not do it as awesome as he did, of course.
All the best to ya!!

*The BioBizz chart is for rooted cuttings not seedlings.
The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.
I don't know how many time I have to say this, if you do ph down not below 6! You will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin the compost..
In answer to your Q's Mr Dragon your programme vis 3 inch to 6 inch to 11 litre is fine. But for the 3 inch pots use half and half allmix and perlite.
As soon as the rootball is netted with fine roots move them to your 6 inch pots and neat allmix.
Same story for the move to the final pots. Once in the final pots let them root out the soil ball before flowering, as a general rule of thumb once all the plants are showing roots at the drainage holes. Go to 12/12.
You should not need any feed right through these stages. Once you are on 12/12 start feeding 1 ml of both grow and bloom to a litre of water.
At about week 2 of flowering change the mix to 1 ml grow and 2 ml bloom per litre.
At week 3 [21 days] a one off feed of a heaped table spoon of epsom salts per 10 litres add to that 1 ml of grow and 2 ml of bloom.
Round the 4 week mark, the mix is 1ml gr and 3 ml bl.
Once you start to see browning of pistils change to 2 ml gr and 1 ml bl keep with that till the end.
All you really need is grow and bloom + a little epsom salts.
Does this make sense?
An added point, if you see the tissue between the veins on the lower leaves turning a lighter green at any point its likly the first signs of Mg shortage starting an addition of a little epsom salts to the next feed should keep things right. Don’t over do this or else you can lock out other nutrients.
Being a puter man you will love this, I just spent an hr or more trying to find out why my new fire wire drive just would not mount on the desk top. I reinstalled all the extentions/drivers nadt. Then it occored to me it might work if I plugged the firewire cable in. Ot "good with plants shit with computers"*

 

[Jewels]

i have attached a picture of one of the worst leaves at week 7 of flower,

Or was it the best leaf ?




Bloom nutes dont focus on foliage care.

Yellow and crispy leaf is just fine by me after week 4

 

[Ed Rooney]

I tend to get the same with some genetics, you can do a side by side and some show deficiencies and others are fine.
I top dress a little gypsum for cal and sulphur at wk 4 now I'm running all organic.
Most cal/mag supplements have a little N too, so you could add that into your regime. They work great as a foliar early on before buddage.

 

[phenophile]

thank you all for the replies! i will work through them individually to keep tidy.

Hey Phenophile,
I found this on UK420, it's a post by OT1, way back 2004, but as I read it, I think your answer is in there.
I myself, wander between the the land of organics, and salt fertilizers, with the evangelical users on either side, barking at my and my bastard ways.
I use either regimen how I want to, I do not take sides.
My gut reaction was to say some of these words OT1 has posted up. But I'd not do it as awesome as he did, of course.
All the best to ya!!

*The BioBizz chart is for rooted cuttings not seedlings.
The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.
I don't know how many time I have to say this, if you do ph down not below 6! You will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin the compost..
In answer to your Q's Mr Dragon your programme vis 3 inch to 6 inch to 11 litre is fine. But for the 3 inch pots use half and half allmix and perlite.
As soon as the rootball is netted with fine roots move them to your 6 inch pots and neat allmix.
Same story for the move to the final pots. Once in the final pots let them root out the soil ball before flowering, as a general rule of thumb once all the plants are showing roots at the drainage holes. Go to 12/12.
You should not need any feed right through these stages. Once you are on 12/12 start feeding 1 ml of both grow and bloom to a litre of water.
At about week 2 of flowering change the mix to 1 ml grow and 2 ml bloom per litre.
At week 3 [21 days] a one off feed of a heaped table spoon of epsom salts per 10 litres add to that 1 ml of grow and 2 ml of bloom.
Round the 4 week mark, the mix is 1ml gr and 3 ml bl.
Once you start to see browning of pistils change to 2 ml gr and 1 ml bl keep with that till the end.
All you really need is grow and bloom + a little epsom salts.
Does this make sense?
An added point, if you see the tissue between the veins on the lower leaves turning a lighter green at any point its likly the first signs of Mg shortage starting an addition of a little epsom salts to the next feed should keep things right. Don’t over do this or else you can lock out other nutrients.
Being a puter man you will love this, I just spent an hr or more trying to find out why my new fire wire drive just would not mount on the desk top. I reinstalled all the extentions/drivers nadt. Then it occored to me it might work if I plugged the firewire cable in. Ot "good with plants shit with computers"*

maybe some epsom salts might do the trick then. i am not using biobizz but i guess it must be basically the same thing. pH is in range so it looks like that might be the missing link.
thank you for your help ?

 

[phenophile]

Or was it the best leaf ?

View attachment 167042


Bloom nutes dont focus on foliage care.

Yellow and crispy leaf is just fine by me after week 4

i have read conflicting information about yellow leaves being normal during flower. most say it is okay but some say it is not and i have seen lots of pictures of plants with healthy looking leaves right through to harvest. i always assumed that was later than week 4 though. maybe i am worried over nothing.
could this affect yields? my yields are low but my plants are never 100% healthy, i am still trying to get my footing, years into this hobby
thank you for the help ?

 

[phenophile]

I tend to get the same with some genetics, you can do a side by side and some show deficiencies and others are fine.
I top dress a little gypsum for cal and sulphur at wk 4 now I'm running all organic.
Most cal/mag supplements have a little N too, so you could add that into your regime. They work great as a foliar early on before buddage.

in a way, this response is a mix of the other two responses
maybe i am a little too worried, but also wouldn't hurt to add a little something around week 4. i think i will try some cal mag on the next run just to keep it simple for now. on this grow i will try some epsom salts because i already have some.
i aim to be fully organic one day, but just trying to figure everything out for now. once i am comfortable i will start switching things around. would be nice to get one grow under my belt that i am 100% happy with
thank you for the help ?

 

[phenophile]

i was just looking over these responses and i noticed the hearts in my posts are appearing as question marks. not really sure how that happened but please know i was not being rude to those i was thanking for help
thank you < 3

 

[Hitch]

i was just looking over these responses and i noticed the hearts in my posts are appearing as question marks. not really sure how that happened but please know i was not being rude to those i was thanking for help
thank you < 3

No worries, it happened during the server migration:

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[webeblzr]

I also think some strains of cannabis scavenge more goodies, from their food source, if that makes any sense.
This pic is of 2 different strains, both from IEBS, Dog Patch on the left, Tropicanna Cookies x heri x crywstbc what I call #3, and is a clone. I'm smoking the donator plant as I can not keep mom plants. That interferes with my strain whore addiction.
Both plants into the same medium, fed, watered, give tea's, and top dressing all at the same time.
Same flower area, same schedule.
Two very distinctly different outcomes to them. One is melting leaf off of it, the other still fairly green.....I do not understand, if a magnesium deficiency for the yellowing, why such different outcomes? Maybe my bastardizing of growth styles, salts and organics?
like others, I really do not care if yellowing happens close to the cull. In veg mode, that would bother me.

The yellow did NOT hurt the scents, they will almost gag me, as I scope them.
IDK.

 

[Hokusai]

I also think some strains of cannabis scavenge more goodies, from their food source, if that makes any sense.
This pic is of 2 different strains, both from IEBS, Dog Patch on the left, Tropicanna Cookies x heri x crywstbc what I call #3, and is a clone. I'm smoking the donator plant as I can not keep mom plants. That interferes with my strain whore addiction.
Both plants into the same medium, fed, watered, give tea's, and top dressing all at the same time.
Same flower area, same schedule.
Two very distinctly different outcomes to them. One is melting leaf off of it, the other still fairly green.....I do not understand, if a magnesium deficiency for the yellowing, why such different outcomes? Maybe my bastardizing of growth styles, salts and organics?
like others, I really do not care if yellowing happens close to the cull. In veg mode, that would bother me.
View attachment 173055
The yellow did NOT hurt the scents, they will almost gag me, as I scope them.
IDK.

you are absolutely correct in that different varieties will all have different fades, some turning purple and related colors depending. the ecsd i just finished was yellow and ugly as hell when i cut her down. but in comparison, my hells og x purple punch is violet red to almost blue at cut, with the same basic feeding regimen. don't sweat it, yellow late in flower means you won't be smoking nitrates later