Let’s talk IPM - from the lions den

greenmachine29

In Bloom
My current grow is in a barn, not just a pole barn but an ancient dairy/ livestock barn. Probably 100plus years old and surrounded by farm and forest on either sides.
I call it the lions den because the grow area is surrounded by BuGs. Every angle and crevice. Compared to basement growing this is the mt Everest of IPM.

so I’d love to start some dialogue on everyone’s best and worst pest/pathogen management practices.
So here’s what I’ve learned this far from the lions den.

Environment: this is key. Keep proper humidity/ temps and air flow/ co2 seems to be the first step to keeping pathogens at bay.


natural fungicide/ insecticide: canncontrol and pyganic sprays. At least a few applications in veg and maybe first week of flower. I’m looking into regalia, potentially to replace canna control.

sns209 systemic root drench.
this product rocks. 5 days in a row in veg , and 5 days in a row at flower stretch. Takes weeks in not longer to really start being effective.

Mosquito dunks in reservoir. Just for the gnats. Again slow working option here

my personal favorite practice. Not sure if anyone else does anything similar. But it’s really inspired from the “gnat mix” that used to be available.

Equal parts perlite to coco coir. then per gallon of this mix I add about 1 heaping handful of diatomaceous earth. Mix well and top containers about 1/2 inch. I’ve found the suspension of DE in coco/perlite keep the dust dry and effective against almost every soft body cthrough the mulch layer.

ok so it’s a lot I know. But it been fairly effective. Before implementing these practices thrips/ aphids / gnats were persistent. And battled PM and bud rot as well. Now we are pm / rot free. And only ever see a few thrips in veg and gnats have all but vanished.

we also do other wierd shit that probably helps. Not sure. Have grow rooms shoes ready to change into. Proper filters for air intake of course.
 

Gentlemancorpse

Cannabis Chaotician
Staff member
Moderator
I've had quite the pest invasion even in my basement this past season. Right now I'm using Plant Therapy as a foliar treatment, once a week or as needed through veg. Athena IPM root drench a couple times in veg. I'm also topping the pots with a mix of sand and mosquito bits. I was doing the DE but it's just too messy for my tiny basement. I like the sand because it's easier to manage. Soft bodies still can't crawl through it. And then there's the ubiquitous yellow sticky traps.
 

greenmachine29

In Bloom
I've had quite the pest invasion even in my basement this past season. Right now I'm using Plant Therapy as a foliar treatment, once a week or as needed through veg. Athena IPM root drench a couple times in veg. I'm also topping the pots with a mix of sand and mosquito bits. I was doing the DE but it's just too messy for my tiny basement. I like the sand because it's easier to manage. Soft bodies still can't crawl through it. And then there's the ubiquitous yellow sticky traps.
Nice. Thanks for the input. Plant therapy is essential oil based correct?
What were you mainly fighting?
 

JL2G

Jesse Loves 2 Grow
Staff member
Moderator
Q-36 Space Modulator
Keep at em. If aphids are around their life cycle is so slow it can take a month for larvae in the soil to become an adult. Think they are gone and those jerk show right back up.
Thoughts on lady bugs?
Friggin aphids were the bane to me last summer of 2020. Kept thinking I'd eradicated them and they'd show up again. Was the most serious pain to get them completely gone, drove me bonkers at the time. Had ladybugs en masse as well, was alot of fun watching them hunt and eat those aphids, but dang the aphids just kept coming back in force. Finally let it all shut down for 8 or 9 months except for some momma plants, and thats where I finally got them gone. Shut down was only partly due to the bug issue, was mostly other life events that put me sour on it for awhile. Back at it again now though, and loving growing again. Love seeing and reading up on everyone else's method's and gardens. Learn something new every day here.
 
In a big spot like that I'd build or buy a sulfur burner to run onc in a while as well, it will fuck up, bugs,mold,mildew and whatever else is in there, I've run it all the way into week 6 while dealing with pm a while back, you mentioned air movement and exchange already, having lighting with a healthy amount of uv is another good way to deal with pm and mold as well, microbe lift in your watering schedule is a great way to help do in the gnats as well much more effective in liquid form vs the bits from my experience, silica in your watering is another thing I do to help up the plants natural ability to cope with pathogens,mold,mildew and pests as well, plus it helps with building a heartier structure in the ladies to help hold all that weight were gonna put on em
 

greenmachine29

In Bloom
In a big spot like that I'd build or buy a sulfur burner to run onc in a while as well, it will fuck up, bugs,mold,mildew and whatever else is in there, I've run it all the way into week 6 while dealing with pm a while back, you mentioned air movement and exchange already, having lighting with a healthy amount of uv is another good way to deal with pm and mold as well, microbe lift in your watering schedule is a great way to help do in the gnats as well much more effective in liquid form vs the bits from my experience, silica in your watering is another thing I do to help up the plants natural ability to cope with pathogens,mold,mildew and pests as well, plus it helps with building a heartier structure in the ladies to help hold all that weight were gonna put on em
Nice. I was looking at microbe lift. Might have to grab some instead of dunks.
 

greenmachine29

In Bloom
In a big spot like that I'd build or buy a sulfur burner to run onc in a while as well, it will fuck up, bugs,mold,mildew and whatever else is in there, I've run it all the way into week 6 while dealing with pm a while back, you mentioned air movement and exchange already, having lighting with a healthy amount of uv is another good way to deal with pm and mold as well, microbe lift in your watering schedule is a great way to help do in the gnats as well much more effective in liquid form vs the bits from my experience, silica in your watering is another thing I do to help up the plants natural ability to cope with pathogens,mold,mildew and pests as well, plus it helps with building a heartier structure in the ladies to help hold all that weight were gonna put on em
I had some agsil16 from buildasoil but the whole thing turned to a brick before I can even try it out. I think it’s potassium silica maybe don’t quote me. What silica are you useing?
 

Gentlemancorpse

Cannabis Chaotician
Staff member
Moderator
Keep at em. If aphids are around their life cycle is so slow it can take a month for larvae in the soil to become an adult. Think they are gone and those jerk show right back up.
Thoughts on lady bugs?
I think I got rid of the Aphids. I definitely considered lady bugs but in then I got fed up and just culled all the plants that were showing visible signs of them and quarantined any plants that had shared tent space with the affected girls. Hit the quarantined girls with the above mentioned IPM regime. Systematically just shut down any tent they had been in and left them vacant for two weeks. Haven't seen them in any of my new runs.

Still dealing with some thrips and gnats but they are greatly reduced. The sand seems to help a lot.
 

VAHomegrown

In Bloom
I once grew in an environment like yours and surprisingly didn't have bad pest issues because of all the predatory critters that could feed on the pests had free access to the plants! I think we screw ourselves out of a lot of natural pest control by running sterile grow rooms and constantly doing preventative IPM.
*Good quality fans (not the amazon $17 crap that won't blow a straw wrapper of a table top) blowing from below the canopy up and fans blowing across the top of the canopy seem to make it harder for pests to establish.
 

OldG

Elite Hobbyist
Foliar Fridays...
3 gallon pump sprayer 6 oz Jadam wetting agent, 5ml potassium silicate, 1/4 tsp aloe powder I spray that shit on EVERYTHING
I also add 0 0 17 kelp to the foliar for bloom...why not eh.

Take That Thrip Tuesdays
3 gallon pump sprayer with the above...or X12 (Like Tweetment).

I get cucumeris flies every 8 weeks in 6 to 8 week release packs (1.49 CDN a pack)

I use canna guard nemotodes now as well.

Canna Guard- Cannabis Nematode Blend​

These Nematodes are specifically designed to tackle soil pests found in cannabis – Fungus gnat, Thrip pupae, Root aphids, etc Made in Canada

2 applications of 10 m2 (100 ft2).

$32.99 Apply every 6 to 8 weeks. I use the same soil so after the next round i wont bother with it. I will stick to sprays, blue stickies and cucumeris. I love them they are lazy buggers after 3 days so time release traps really work well. They attack thrip larvae in the leaves.

Thrips are pricky. Soil treatments will not work alone because they eat and hatch out of the leaves of the plant...and the stalks. Spray them base of stalk right to the top..every leaf til its SOAKED...then top down to bottom.. Then i clean my floors because they are all nice and soapy.

Jadam melts soft bodied insects at 1 to 2 oz per galllon...you can use it up to 4 oz per gallon. I will make another batch in a month or so (2 X 3 1/2 gallons of Jadam cost about 30 bucks CDN for all inputs, canola oil and potassium hydroxcate (caustic potash, or lye are the other names).

And the buggers like to keep coming back so IPM FOREVER....I am never EVER being lazy about that shit again.

I love the smell of Jadam in the morning...It smells like VICTORY..... SUCK IT THRIPS.

Jadam can be modified with regular stuff to be almost any spray you buy...green cure etc. I will try and find the recipes and post them...i have it in a tab someplace.

Good thing thrips are bigger than a 220 bag :D
 

greenmachine29

In Bloom
Foliar Fridays...
3 gallon pump sprayer 6 oz Jadam wetting agent, 5ml potassium silicate, 1/4 tsp aloe powder I spray that shit on EVERYTHING
I also add 0 0 17 kelp to the foliar for bloom...why not eh.

Take That Thrip Tuesdays
3 gallon pump sprayer with the above...or X12 (Like Tweetment).

I get cucumeris flies every 8 weeks in 6 to 8 week release packs (1.49 CDN a pack)

I use canna guard nemotodes now as well.

Canna Guard- Cannabis Nematode Blend​

These Nematodes are specifically designed to tackle soil pests found in cannabis – Fungus gnat, Thrip pupae, Root aphids, etc Made in Canada

2 applications of 10 m2 (100 ft2).

$32.99 Apply every 6 to 8 weeks. I use the same soil so after the next round i wont bother with it. I will stick to sprays, blue stickies and cucumeris. I love them they are lazy buggers after 3 days so time release traps really work well. They attack thrip larvae in the leaves.

Thrips are pricky. Soil treatments will not work alone because they eat and hatch out of the leaves of the plant...and the stalks. Spray them base of stalk right to the top..every leaf til its SOAKED...then top down to bottom.. Then i clean my floors because they are all nice and soapy.

Jadam melts soft bodied insects at 1 to 2 oz per galllon...you can use it up to 4 oz per gallon. I will make another batch in a month or so (2 X 3 1/2 gallons of Jadam cost about 30 bucks CDN for all inputs, canola oil and potassium hydroxcate (caustic potash, or lye are the other names).

And the buggers like to keep coming back so IPM FOREVER....I am never EVER being lazy about that shit again.

I love the smell of Jadam in the morning...It smells like VICTORY..... SUCK IT THRIPS.

Jadam can be modified with regular stuff to be almost any spray you buy...green cure etc. I will try and find the recipes and post them...i have it in a tab someplace.

Good thing thrips are bigger than a 220 bag :D
When you say Jadam is that a homemade product or purchased? I want to get more into some KNF, but have been scared due to time mismanagement snd my kombucha experience ended in explosion.

good stuff thanks!
 

OldG

Elite Hobbyist

This is from the buildasoil page but the recipie is free from the dude that made the Jadam principles of farming books.

Wetting Agent is a natural surfactant and emulsifier that can be added to your weekly IPM or foliar fertilizer program. It will aid in overall penetration, coverage, and effectiveness of the substances used in your IPM or fertilizer program.
Application Rate: Dilute 1 to 4 ounces per gallon of water. Mix well. Foliar spray on plants or add to your foliar fertilizer program. *Must be foliar sprayed
Ingredients: Filtered water, canola oil, potassium hydroxide
All credit for this recipe goes to JADAM. If it was not for them, these ultra-low-cost farming practices would not be available and so widespread.

How to Make JWA At Home:​

Items Needed:
  • Heat-Resistant Container with Air-Tight Lid
  • Kitchen Scale
  • Immersion Blender or Drill With Mixing Attachment
  • Bowls for Weighing Out Inputs
  • Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
  • Canola Oil
  • Filtered Water
I used a 5 ballon black bucket with a paint mixer attachment on a drill....an immersion blender would be better ! Wear gloves that caustic lye is HOT. 1 of them crystals gets just past the glove you will know it !
Instructions:
This recipe will make approximately 3.5 gallons of JADAM Wetting Agent.
  1. Measure out 400 grams of potassium hydroxide in a bowl and measure out 312.5 grams of filtered water.
  2. Place the water in the heat-resistant-container. Then, pour the potassium hydroxide in and immediately cover with a lid, as this is a caustic chemical reaction taking place that can be dangerous and will produce temps up to 220 degrees. Swirl the container around to fully dissolve the potassium hydroxide.
  3. Measure out 76 fl. oz. of canola oil in a bowl. Pour the canola oil into the heat-resistant container with the potassium hydroxide solution.
  4. Using the blending tool, mix the solution until a thin mayonnaise consistency is formed.
  5. Place the lid on the container and allow it to sit for 3 days or until it becomes hard like butter. If it does not harden up, re-mix the solution with the blending tool.
  6. Add 84.5 fl. oz. of filtered water to the container and mix gently with the blending tool. Make sure all clumps are off the bottom and side of the container.
  7. Add an additional 253.6 fl. oz. of filtered water to the container. Stir manually.
  8. Place lid on the container and allow it to melt slowly for 24 hours and it will be complete. Store in a tightly sealed container. It has no expiration date
 

Skunky Dunk Farms

Cannabinoid Receptor

This is from the buildasoil page but the recipie is free from the dude that made the Jadam principles of farming books.

Wetting Agent is a natural surfactant and emulsifier that can be added to your weekly IPM or foliar fertilizer program. It will aid in overall penetration, coverage, and effectiveness of the substances used in your IPM or fertilizer program.
Application Rate: Dilute 1 to 4 ounces per gallon of water. Mix well. Foliar spray on plants or add to your foliar fertilizer program. *Must be foliar sprayed
Ingredients: Filtered water, canola oil, potassium hydroxide
All credit for this recipe goes to JADAM. If it was not for them, these ultra-low-cost farming practices would not be available and so widespread.

How to Make JWA At Home:​

Items Needed:
  • Heat-Resistant Container with Air-Tight Lid
  • Kitchen Scale
  • Immersion Blender or Drill With Mixing Attachment
  • Bowls for Weighing Out Inputs
  • Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
  • Canola Oil
  • Filtered Water
I used a 5 ballon black bucket with a paint mixer attachment on a drill....an immersion blender would be better ! Wear gloves that caustic lye is HOT. 1 of them crystals gets just past the glove you will know it !
Instructions:
This recipe will make approximately 3.5 gallons of JADAM Wetting Agent.
  1. Measure out 400 grams of potassium hydroxide in a bowl and measure out 312.5 grams of filtered water.
  2. Place the water in the heat-resistant-container. Then, pour the potassium hydroxide in and immediately cover with a lid, as this is a caustic chemical reaction taking place that can be dangerous and will produce temps up to 220 degrees. Swirl the container around to fully dissolve the potassium hydroxide.
  3. Measure out 76 fl. oz. of canola oil in a bowl. Pour the canola oil into the heat-resistant container with the potassium hydroxide solution.
  4. Using the blending tool, mix the solution until a thin mayonnaise consistency is formed.
  5. Place the lid on the container and allow it to sit for 3 days or until it becomes hard like butter. If it does not harden up, re-mix the solution with the blending tool.
  6. Add 84.5 fl. oz. of filtered water to the container and mix gently with the blending tool. Make sure all clumps are off the bottom and side of the container.
  7. Add an additional 253.6 fl. oz. of filtered water to the container. Stir manually.
  8. Place lid on the container and allow it to melt slowly for 24 hours and it will be complete. Store in a tightly sealed container. It has no expiration date
I love chemistry!
 
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