Just waking up atm, not even sure what I'm doing yet. Mmmmm coffee.......
Valley View 2023
- Thread starter DopeDaniel
- Start date
His drool is worse than his bite, pretty sure that's what happened to the one bud on the sour bubble.
Psychobilly
🧀Muenster
You know I bet it's surprising, that I haven't ever killed a Cheese plant doing that.
One bean from the BlueRipper (molecular sieve) pollinated branch. Pollen wasn't protected from light. The volunteer green pollen got packed in vials with silica then heat sealed in mylar. Sticking with room temp storage and I'll give it a shot next summer probably. Got about 25 beans off the (gw x cnc) x ppp pollination and 2 vials Twinklehawk x GV.
If you want any hmu.
If you want any hmu.
Did I mention I was nervous?
Dim + = black and yellow
Dim - = red and green
Works.
Dim + = black and yellow
Dim - = red and green
Works.
Unfortunately don't think I'll be able to do what I want with it which is dim lights if temp goes too high. I can shut them off and there some more advanced programming (buffer zones) I need to look into. Could maybe replace the outlet controllers for on off, allowing control of more things.
Jewels
Tilts at Tables
If the dimming proves unobtainable; as compromise,,,
Without a firm grasp on the entire big picture, I will just make some stuff up.
Is this a situation where you have multiple Banks of light, that can be shut on and off?
For example, if there was four light panels, that could be shut on and off individually.
Let's say that all four panels, running at 25% dimmed, would provide an ample temperature.
Would the same temperature be achievable with two panels running 100% of the time, and the other two panels switching on and off , as the heat controller dictates?
Like I said, it is a compromise. Whilst the arrangement would address target temperatures, it would naturally cause DLI inconsistencies within specific areas of the canopy, as some plants would be lit full time, whereas others would be basking under an intermittent light.
Not certain if I have presented that coherently enough to communicate my idea. It was on my mind, as I was considering a similar solution for my garden.
I was thinking about going with multiple, smaller hid sources.
Any given day this winter it will be range from -35 up to 60 Fahrenheit
When it is stinking cold I need 1800 watts ( 350W x 5'ish fixtures)
On a warm day, I might only need three fixtures.
Not sure how many zones you can muster, but the answer may be hiding there.
Placement and creative wiring can achieve some cool stuff.
4 drivers, only 2 can be dimmed remotely with this device if the appropriate drivers are purchased there could be a bank of them.
This level of control is achieved by the outlet switches, or by using individual "Type B" adapters (with appropriate driver). In addition to dimming the type b adapter can also dim to 0% or off, I need to check the driver specs cause I didn't think that was possible with this model driver.
Bring it wiith the thermodynamics questions. Each component (driver, cob, board...) has an efficiency curve, hit the sweet spot of each for the least heat.
8 - 4 on either the ac infinty controler 69pro or 67 (the head units) but I only have 4 drivers that most likely will require co2 if I run them at max, just north of 2000W and 4000 ppf•d at 3ft distance from canopy. Keep in mind the other things that are controlled with them are the swamp cooler, dehumidifier and intake air.
The number of options is confounding, I've been scheming all day on what the plan should be.
Pretty sure I didn't directly address it anyway.
As you have said a btu is a btu, one neat thing about led is untying light and heat. What I mean is I can add light without adding excessive heat, if I need heat I want to use a heater (preferably radiant) as it is the device designed for the task.
View attachment 20231101_134035.mp4
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IPM summary - DE/cinnamon/mustard seed meal topdressed, foliar - Sulfur (wetable spray) followed by Pyganic (I tend not to use brand names unless I think it is relevant), followed by spino and Vinerate (soil drench too) today. Foliar sprays were 36-72 hrs apart, Grandevo will be next then bauvaria bassiana (I'll likely switch back to botanigard when I finish this bag of biocerese) w/vinerate and grandevo on rotation will resume for basic ipm on 7-10 day interval.
This approach puts the sulfur application and bb application about 2 weeks apart, imo more than enough time for them not to conflict with each other, given the number of other foliar applications.
I'd prefer to burn sulfur (but its not safe in this scenario) and keep the whole round of knockouts shorter (i.e. stay closer to the lower side of the 36 -72 hr inval).
Topdressed Dr. Earth 4-4-4 and vermicompost today too between soil treatments, followed by fresh coat of de/cinnamon/mustard seed.
This approach puts the sulfur application and bb application about 2 weeks apart, imo more than enough time for them not to conflict with each other, given the number of other foliar applications.
I'd prefer to burn sulfur (but its not safe in this scenario) and keep the whole round of knockouts shorter (i.e. stay closer to the lower side of the 36 -72 hr inval).
Topdressed Dr. Earth 4-4-4 and vermicompost today too between soil treatments, followed by fresh coat of de/cinnamon/mustard seed.
Forgot about Dr. Bronner's, did that before the sulfur. Once I run out I'll try to remember Sal suds as a possible alternate.
The shed beds got too dry over the dormancy period the last 6 months. I've got some good vermicompost with lots of live worms that will go down as soon as the beds get to a good saturation.
I'm reammending based on my interpretation of sample results collected at the end of my last run and will resample next spring when I shut it back down. Lately I've been going basically water only, minimal (1 or 2) topdressings with a 4-4-4 or bloom some tm-7 and a few foliars of cal carb and epsom.
To this point the 3x3 has gotten 1/2 lb (1/2 C) langbenite, 2 gallons of pumice and is being watered with a rotation of BAS big 6, rootwise microbe complete, bio phos, enzyme, or photosynthesis plus. Each watering is being pH'd below 4 with concentrated sulfuric.
The 2x4 has gotten the same plus 3/4C Rock Phosphate and 1/2C blood meal.
I'm reammending based on my interpretation of sample results collected at the end of my last run and will resample next spring when I shut it back down. Lately I've been going basically water only, minimal (1 or 2) topdressings with a 4-4-4 or bloom some tm-7 and a few foliars of cal carb and epsom.
To this point the 3x3 has gotten 1/2 lb (1/2 C) langbenite, 2 gallons of pumice and is being watered with a rotation of BAS big 6, rootwise microbe complete, bio phos, enzyme, or photosynthesis plus. Each watering is being pH'd below 4 with concentrated sulfuric.
The 2x4 has gotten the same plus 3/4C Rock Phosphate and 1/2C blood meal.