Watts per Square Foot
- Thread starter spyralout
- Start date
Those look nice what are they?
I got a few sets of Kingbrite 600 w bars - Samsung LM301H w Cree Reds. Jag’s running one rn and he’s getting good results.I also have a set of 600 w G2V bars from Canada via Turpman and some Rapid Led supplemental strips.
No idea when they’ll arrive. Lotta port congestion rn and they just gave me tracking.
Evergreen
Showmethelowers
Cool man they are running the Samsung diodes aswell, supposedly a bunch of ir and Uv added in idk much about led and was asked to run it.
I’d have to find the little paper work that came with it for exact details but it’s company is G8 and model is c3
High kev
In Bloom
So many different factors. If I could 100% control every aspect perfectly in my room, I would put a hps in the middle and surround the outside weak spots with led to have a mixture of both. My experience, which I could be totally wrong about due to so many different factors and inconsistencies in my rooms, is that hps grew the plants bigger with bigger buds but the leds had more crystals and were more pretty finished sooner. But then again I spend most of my time looking at them under those different lights hahah to many factors. Love the discussion. I will never fully grasp it. I don’t have that much space in my brain left to store that amount of info. So I’m glad it’s being discussed here hahaha
DrTheenGrumb
In Bloom
I sourced my light from a website and run the newest or "newer" Samsung diodes. The entire light was all assembled in my house as I went the do it yourself route. One thing I did notice almost instantly is that with the older LED models, you can get them really close to the plants where the newer lights you 'have to' allow proper distance unless dialed down dramatically. Now when I was really researching this stuff, I have come to a conclusion that a 500w real draw light that produces the purple/pink color lighting will grow the same as a 500w real draw Samsung newest diode light. Yes one light is more efficient than the other, the light will still grow the same as long as the spectrum between the lights didn't change. In reality, there's no reason to buy the older model but unless spectrum and power are different, both lights regardless of said diodes will grow the same as long as the actual watt pull is identical. If I am wrong or looking at this incorrect, please correct me as I really want to understand this much better.
OldG
Elite Hobbyist
get a light meter...check out where your lights drop off. You need WAY more light than you think if you want to adequtely cover your space.
80% of HID is about right if you want to get there in LED if you want the buds to be the same...or close to it
I just measured.....12 inches boards drop off to where the 1000 HPS gets at 30 inches
I love LED but power is really so much cheaper than 10 dollars a gram...crank it up...
Power VS Weed i will take fat buds.... the power and water bill are a fraction of my weed costs before i grew.....and i grow almost more than i can smoke...its an Olympic lifetime achievement award !!
I won the HPS or i would never have tried it....this year on sale i got 2 new ushio bulbs so HPS for a long time...and the buds OMG dense for feet.
maybe i should just get 1 more 1000 HPS and
Fossils are enduring....Granite for Life !
For intensity of light penetration it goes like this .HPS-->CMH--COBS--STRIPS--BOARDS
40 watts a foot is about ideal for most situations if you can adquately cover the area...and that is key. 50 would be better if you can handle the heat.
80% of HID is about right if you want to get there in LED if you want the buds to be the same...or close to it
I just measured.....12 inches boards drop off to where the 1000 HPS gets at 30 inches
I love LED but power is really so much cheaper than 10 dollars a gram...crank it up...
Power VS Weed i will take fat buds.... the power and water bill are a fraction of my weed costs before i grew.....and i grow almost more than i can smoke...its an Olympic lifetime achievement award !!
I won the HPS or i would never have tried it....this year on sale i got 2 new ushio bulbs so HPS for a long time...and the buds OMG dense for feet.
maybe i should just get 1 more 1000 HPS and
Fossils are enduring....Granite for Life !
For intensity of light penetration it goes like this .HPS-->CMH--COBS--STRIPS--BOARDS
40 watts a foot is about ideal for most situations if you can adquately cover the area...and that is key. 50 would be better if you can handle the heat.
Badmofo529
In Bloom
Imo, growing style plays into power requirements as well. Big plants with a deep canopy are gonna need more light than a scrog with a 12" deep canopy for example.
GhestViewingLimit
In Bloom
I like the shorter plants under the boards and leggier ones under the cobs. Running 30-40w/sqft in all tents.
Have never personally used HPS but hope to next winter!
Have never personally used HPS but hope to next winter!
Gweedo's Growroom
Yoda Fired Up
You guys are all spot on, it really just comes down to the amount of photons the plant can use in a said time frame, as long as they are getting as much as they want your good regardless of the means, hps,led,mh,cmh will all just give you different phenotypical expressions of what you've got, and as long as the math in your light energy is right you should yield very close to the same in all the situations, you'll just have the different types of nuggets from each due to how the plants processed the spectrum they were receiving, only catch is we have to optimize the spaces for each setup since they all act different, and I think that is where the yield differences come into play just my opinion ✌✌??
OldG
Elite Hobbyist
well said !
thesunnyvalekid
Boutique Auto Service
My two cents on the topic. My indoor experience started with 1000 watt HID, did not care for the color of HPS on the plants, although yields were better with HPS, this was setup in a open bedroom hanging in the middle, we let the plants grow up to the light, heat was outrageous yields were great, the electric bill was also outrageous.
The last 7 years or so I have used QB boards from HLG and COBs from Optic, they are in the color spectrum close to HID (blue) 5000k I have used rspec and bspec in the HLG, but prefer bspec. The COBs are all 5000k. In my experience the sun is the ultimate light, I believe 5000k is closer to the sun than 3500k except in the fall. The pheno expression of the plants grown under 5000k I cannot duplicate under 3500k spectrum I have tried, yield is comparable, with the 3500k yield is a little better with heavy denser buds, but not enough to switch the whole grow to 3500k.
The only issue with QB boards is the leaf temperatures not being high enough to support fast metabolism (growth) COBs run a little hotter and I find leaf temps to be better with those lights. With HID/HPS I would worry about high heat and with LEDs worry not hot enough, I run my tents on the hot side up to 85 degrees with heavy air flow. 50 watts per square is on the high side of any light in a tent.
One thing I would stress that many new growers chase is yield. Great yields do not always mean better weed, I’m old now so more does not mean better, quality means better to me, plant expression means better to me, otherwise your not creating anything special or unique, your just a common man with weed that is as common as there are lights.
The last 7 years or so I have used QB boards from HLG and COBs from Optic, they are in the color spectrum close to HID (blue) 5000k I have used rspec and bspec in the HLG, but prefer bspec. The COBs are all 5000k. In my experience the sun is the ultimate light, I believe 5000k is closer to the sun than 3500k except in the fall. The pheno expression of the plants grown under 5000k I cannot duplicate under 3500k spectrum I have tried, yield is comparable, with the 3500k yield is a little better with heavy denser buds, but not enough to switch the whole grow to 3500k.
The only issue with QB boards is the leaf temperatures not being high enough to support fast metabolism (growth) COBs run a little hotter and I find leaf temps to be better with those lights. With HID/HPS I would worry about high heat and with LEDs worry not hot enough, I run my tents on the hot side up to 85 degrees with heavy air flow. 50 watts per square is on the high side of any light in a tent.
One thing I would stress that many new growers chase is yield. Great yields do not always mean better weed, I’m old now so more does not mean better, quality means better to me, plant expression means better to me, otherwise your not creating anything special or unique, your just a common man with weed that is as common as there are lights.
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