These are "advertised" values. They need to be actual watts from the wall. Many of the pre-built "blurples" will claim these ridiculous ratings. In general, LED will be less watts. I refer to QB/Strip/COB as "real" LED vs. blurples. I believe @JL2G (our resident LED expert) mentioned that the equivalent from HID to "real" LED is around 60%, so for a 1000w HID, 600w of "real" LED would be equivalent.
Not claiming to be any expert mang, more of a professional hobbyist imho.
I dubbed you that, you are most humble and modest. You have a great understanding of not just LED but everything build related. You never steer anyone wrong with solid advice you can take to the bank.Not claiming to be any expert mang, more of a professional hobbyist imho.
But yes, I'd say I know a few things. lol.
(1 or 2 tops
Don't ask me to figure things now though, I'm a few sheets to the wind atm. lol.
I was thinking of a sog set up I have a cabinet in room I can veg in and flower in room. But then need another room off for a mother. These are all bag seeds
Not claiming to be any expert mang, more of a professional hobbyist imho.
But yes, I'd say I know a few things. lol.
(1 or 2 tops
That real comparison number, LED to HID is subjective to what led you're comparing it to.
Especially with the advances that have come in the LED world in the last couple of years. Not only in their cost, but in what they're capable of.
The cobs in the light I built awhile back get like 130 some lumens per watt, and the newer tech led boards in another of my lights are more in the 180 lumen per watt rating. So its kind of a generalized comparison saying 60%. lol.
Some of the newest led tech is up in the 200+ range.
And yes I know plants don't care about the lumens necessarily, more about spectrum that makes up those amount of lumens, but lumen's are like the horsepower of the light for comparison sake.
What were we talking about again?
Oh yeah, it's Friday, weeds dank, and beers are in the fridge, help yourself.
Im running a couple different LED setups... shoot me a pm anytime I can link you a few things.
I have been meaning to ask this a while back. Should I be running veg+bloom all the time? Only have it on veg. Also yes I will be giving you a msg. Bout to go build a rack to get ac up as high as I can. Then was thinking run a tube out of water collection tank and run into humidifier lol.
In my opinion, it depends on what you are running and when. I am actually not running veg/ bloom type nutrient at the moment. What are you running? Sorry if I missed it.
Schultz 20 20 20 ? seems very aggressive, saying feed all plants the same but see diffrent problems between plants. Feeding low around 300ppm. I'll show pics there a little more noticeable today. Middle plant looks deficient af, while back left plant and front right look n toxic. All mild atm, maybe not the deficiency is more severe. Did a soil test last night on 2 diffrent containers. Seems ph might be low. By color it was 6 and it was very close to that color. Should I raise this with ph up in water or use a fine powder lime? Middle plant seems sulfur deficent in the progression stage. With most older leafs looking in early stage and newer looking in progression stage. Pictures in 10.
Take a look here:
phenohunter.org
Many people check the runoff after watering, but if you're already having over watering issues, you can take the dirt, put it in distilled water, stir it up, let it sit for 30 min or so, pour it through a coffee filter to another glass, then test it.
Yep. Slurry test the soil with distilled water like spy said.Take a look here:
There are a few charts that show suggested optimal pH ranges with the amount of availability for each nutrient as it relates to the pH value. They are different by a few decimal points, but I believe it's all somewhat relative, just like how even different models of the same brands of pH meters using the same model of probe can have differences. I have a Bluelab Guardian and a Bluelab Combo Meter. They're typically different by 1 decimal point, with the Combo Meter reading higher of the two most of the time. So as long as you're within that general range, then "feel" your way into what the sweet spot is for the plant. The meters are just a guide. Your eyes, hands, nose (sometimes even ears) are your best guides. Many folks run without checking pH. I've done it, in hydro too, but I've always had better plants if I kept up on it. When you look at the charts, notice that the availability of each nutrient is different at different pH values. I am a believer in allowing pH to swing, typically low to high, then knocking it back down again, rinse, repeat - to allow for the uptake of those nutrients at the different availability rates. The direction that your PPM and pH values go is very telling and can help up your game big time in dialing in your grow. There's a chart there in that link as well, my favorite. Most of the time, your nutes have buffers to help bring it to within that range. Check your base water first, so you can get the feel of how much pH down/pH up you need to use if you go that route. Should only be a tiny bit at a time, a little goes a LONG way. Typically if things are going right, you should rarely need to go pH up, it should naturally go up on its own, even if steadily. There are also less "chemical" ways like vinegar and baking soda.Helpful Charts
I'm pretty sure many of us have read, referenced, or posted charts in our grow space at some point. I wanted to create this thread where we can find them all in one place.
Many people check the runoff after watering, but if you're already having over watering issues, you can take the dirt, put it in distilled water, stir it up, let it sit for 30 min or so, pour it through a coffee filter to another glass, then test it.
An inexpensive French press works awesome as well if you do soil tests often.
