Schwaggy P's Random Stuff

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In Bloom
Test run of (Appalachian Super Skunk x Schwaggy's Afghan Skunk), aka Sassy Ass (not final name, just mushing the abbreviations ASS x SAS). They have stretched more than I anticipated (Afghan Skunk tends to be on the shorter side). I got a couple shots while pulling them out for their post-stretch clean-up (pruning back lower/under growth).

@spyralout , did you find any phenos with a serious stretch? For reference, these are in 5" square pots.
The far right table in above pic is all Chocolate Mint OG (Emerald OG x GDP), my go-to nighttime smoke. She just eases aches/pains and gently brings you to sleep. Given the name and date of release, I believe she was an attempt to "recreate" a GSC type plant (OG x Purple), but outperforms her in just about every way (sorry, not sorry).

Is the Cmog from HSO if so they’re attempt at recreating turned in a nice special gem ran a 3 pk, gotta nother on chill mode ?
 

spyralout

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Test run of (Appalachian Super Skunk x Schwaggy's Afghan Skunk), aka Sassy Ass (not final name, just mushing the abbreviations ASS x SAS). They have stretched more than I anticipated (Afghan Skunk tends to be on the shorter side). I got a couple shots while pulling them out for their post-stretch clean-up (pruning back lower/under growth).

@spyralout , did you find any phenos with a serious stretch? For reference, these are in 5" square pots.
The far right table in above pic is all Chocolate Mint OG (Emerald OG x GDP), my go-to nighttime smoke. She just eases aches/pains and gently brings you to sleep. Given the name and date of release, I believe she was an attempt to "recreate" a GSC type plant (OG x Purple), but outperforms her in just about every way (sorry, not sorry).

Just one that towered above the rest by a foot. I had to pull them early so I don't have any good pics to represent. All of them were untopped, and main cola was girthy on all of them. Mostly stayed short. 1/2 gal pots, avg of 3 ft tall from base of trunk. Initial baby shit diaper upon pull, curing is becoming sweet skunk with a smidgen of diaper.
 

Schwaggy P

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Just one that towered above the rest by a foot. I had to pull them early so I don't have any good pics to represent. All of them were untopped, and main cola was girthy on all of them. Mostly stayed short. 1/2 gal pots, avg of 3 ft tall from base of trunk. Initial baby shit diaper upon pull, curing is becoming sweet skunk with a smidgen of diaper.
Thanks for the rundown. (y)

smidgen of diaper
New band name
 

Schwaggy P

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When you hear “structure”, usually it is a catchall term casually used to refer to a plant’s “look” or the integrity of branches. I like to think of structure as the amalgam of individual observable constituent components of the plant.

Structure usually refers to pre-flower characteristics, but structure is something to continue considering through the entire cycle: stretch, branch strength under pressure, specific bud characteristics (this write-up will focus on pre-flower structural considerations).

The amount of consideration given to plant structure is wholly dependent on the goals of the grower. If you are a grower looking for a potent plant that works well in your SCROG setup, you probably aren’t going to spend too much time noting the serration pattern of the leaves. If you are a breeder trying to benchmark the heritability of a set of traits and need to establish whether unrelated phenotypic expressions are linked as they pass along to subsequent generations, you’ll be taking note of the serrations along with vein striations, leaf texture, etc. If you have a cut/cross and want to verify it against parent plants, you’ll want as much observable info possible to make a match.

The most important and most difficult part of any hunt/assessment of plants is to know what you are looking for, or more specifically, what you want to find in any set of characteristics. Ask yourself,
  • What motivated me to grow these seeds?
  • What characteristic(s) was I envisioning when considering popping these seeds?
  • What set of traits would I consider keeper quality?
  • Am I trying to find which parent this leans to?
  • What type of plant would work best in my setup?
  • What traits do I want to see in the progeny of this plant?
If you can answer these questions and prioritize the individual traits, you have a better understanding for what you are looking. Whether you are just assessing new plants from seed, selecting breeding stock, or figuring which parent a cross leans to, having these answers can better guide the effort.

You could only really care about the final smoke effect, and in that case, structure is mostly irrelevant.

One grower’s cull is another grower’s keeper

Structural Components
INTERNODES

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Internodes are the space between the nodes (junctions of secondary terminal branching, leaf petioles, and main stem)(pic 1). If we assume the different phenos of the same strain will all finish with the same relative height, the plants with longer internodes will have less overall budsites when compared to shorter internoded plants (pic 2,3). Generally, longer internodes foreshadow a more pronounced stretch when flipped to flower (pic 4). The types of plants that express very short internodes tend to be of a sturdier stalk and can be more difficult to manipulate for training (pic 5).

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STEM STRENGTH

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The integrity of your plant framework is instrumental in the ability to support itself later in flower. Plants with thinner stems tend to need more support throughout maturity (pic 6), while thicker more robust stems can comfortably sustain massive bud growth independently (pic 7).

If you were looking for a plant to max out in a SCROG, you would skew toward the thinner, floppy stemmed plants to more easily weave through your screen. If you prefer to keep your plant support low maintenance, stronger stems will be more desirable.

BRANCHING

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Your plant’s tendency to push out secondary tops that adds to the footprint, yield, and need for support is the branching quality. Some plants will grow as one main stalk with little to no side branching (pic 8). This would be advantageous in a SOG setup as lateral growth is limited. Conversely, a plant more adept at spitting out side growth will respond well to topping techniques for medium sized bushes (pic 9).

In veg, how a plant responds to topping can tell you how reluctant it is to branching. Sometimes, you don’t get an appreciation for a pheno’s ability to branch until the stretch.

PETIOLES

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Petioles are the stems that connect the leaf to the node of the plant. These come in all sizes and can impact your plant footprint and light penetration. Shorter petioles give the plant a narrow silhouette, great for packing in plants to a space; but can reduce the amount of light that can penetrate the upper canopy (pic 10). Longer petioles demand more square footage but allow far more light into the interior of the plant (pic 11).

A goldilocks balance between the two extremes can offer you the best of both worlds while sidestepping the brunt of the downsides.

LEAF BLADES

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  • Width
    • Taking note of the leaf blade width can help give you an idea about the phenotype’s leanings to the parents and genetics more generally (pic 12,13).
  • Serration
    • Leaf serration can give you an idea about which parent is expressing in the leaves. Some plants develop a double serration and sporadic double serration (pic 14). Some leaves can have deep serrations that give a buzz saw look to the leaves, while others are shallow and less obvious.
  • Variegation
    • If your plant expresses variegation, you have a peculiar trait that can give insight about which parent expresses and can be used as a marker in breeding (pic 15).
  • Texture
    • The individual blades can have different surface character, being smooth or like gator-skin. Thicker leather-like leaves that have rougher surfaces can offer more surface area and a tougher protection against pests (pic 16).
  • Number
    • The number of blades per leaf can change as the plant develops. Some can start with 3-blades and develop 5-blade leaves (pic 17). Noting the number of blades can also help in plant ID comparison.
  • Size Distribution
    • The relative sizes of the leaf blades can also help ID plant leanings and establish trait heritability. Some blades have a more evenly distributed leaf blade surface area (pic 18), while others can take on a 1:3:1 arrangement (pic 19).

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There are some other traits that are flower specific and more in depth for geeking out/breeding (leaf veins, angles of blades, petiole tasting). This should be a decent intro to structure and help spot the differences in phenotypes.​
 

JL2G

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I would like to share my method of pollen collecting and targeted single branch pollination. If you decide to replicate this process for yourself, please be warned that having a male dropping pollen requires great care. I have organized this information into 3 sections: Flowering the Male, Collecting/Storing Pollen, and Pollinating a Single Branch.
I usually take clones of males to keep their size manageable. Once they are rooted, I plant them in a 3” square pot and put them in a clear storage tote (pic 1). You will want to keep the tote lid slightly ajar to allow for air exchange.

Where to keep him depends on whether you have a free tent, separate veg space, or just another room with sunlight. For times when all tents are taken, I keep the male in my veg area (pic 2). It is important to remember that he will be separated from the flowering females.

? In the corner of your veg room or peripheral splash over light is just fine to trigger the male. There’s no need to put him 3” beneath a 1000W DE, I’ve flowered males from the spillover light of a T5.

If you have a single tent with females flowering, the ambient light in another room is enough to accomplish our task.

The 12hr dark cycle is achieved by placing a box over the male’s clear tote (pic 3). This 12/12 box covering will trigger and maintain flowering through the entire process until you’ve collected enough pollen.

? Make sure the box is large enough to cover your storage tote before you begin.

If you are triggering a male for a one-time pollination without storing pollen, then timing will be important. Males will usually develop flowers pretty quickly relative to their female flower setting counterparts. Since we want our females to have a decent flowerset to accept pollen, we have to give her some time to develop them. With most strains, weeks 3-4 will give us the best window to have both nice flower setting and early enough to give the seeds time to mature.

? Don’t trigger your male until about day 10 of flower for your females. This gives females the head start to ensure there will be nice sized buds to give you seeds, as well as not have to deal with and worry about a male dumping tons of pollen too early.

This 12/12 box cycle will continue for the duration of pollen collection.

? You want to approach most things in this process slowly and carefully. There is no extra credit for speed. Being gentle and deliberate with him will ensure any pollen stays within the tote. Pretend you’re doing tai chi at the senior center when you interact with him.

As you gain confidence and success with this process, you can flower multiple males simultaneously (pic 4).

Keep in mind, the goal here is to be aware of his maturity in order to collect pollen long before he creates dust storms. At first, his flowers will be small balls (pic 5) that are not much of a threat to your females at this point. As they begin to develop, you will notice that they cluster and start to hang (pic 6). Usually this timeline window can be from 10-20 days. As the male flowers begin to individualize from the clusters you are now on pollen watch.

? This is the point at which you will need to be very careful about moving him around and watering him.

Once you begin to see the male flowers open, the yellowish anthers will be visible (pic 7) but not drop pollen just yet. The pollen is only hours away at this point, so remain vigilant. If you try to collect pollen as soon as the male flower opens, you’ll find no pollen freely drops, so wait until you see the anthers go from a tight smooth sheen, to bloated matte yellow (pic 8 ).

If you find that you are having issue timing the pollen drop, you can wait until one of the flowers releases pollen onto a leaf below (pic 9).

The male flowers will reach maturity at different rates, which we can use to our advantage. The older male flowers will be first to drop and keep in mind we are only needing a few flowers worth of pollen in order to pollinate multiple single branches. By collecting the first few pollen drops, we are containing the threat of stray pollen.
Yay!!! School is back in session!!!
Love me some learnin' stuff. Lol.
 

DopeDaniel

Taste The Spectrum
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Just a note on growing the male. I thought about using a tote but as you noted, the lack of air exchange is why I did something different.
I set up a small enclosure using photography fabric and pvc pipe. I used 1 F-stop fabric, this reduces the light by 50%, i didnt go with something that let more light in because I was concerend the weave would not be tight enough to contain the pollen. I wont say containment was 100% but definitely better than letting it flop around in the breeze.
 

Schwaggy P

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Smell: hashy, spicy, earthy, melon
Taste: hashy, spicy, earthy, melon, kush, caramel, ginger, potato skins
Effect: varying degrees of relaxed to couchlock ~1.5-2hrs, a couple 60/40 indicas with headiness ~2hrs
Growing: Stats averaged from 8 phenos out of one pack
Stretch: roughly double to triple initial flowering height
Flowering Time: 60-75 days
Nutes: moderate feeder, some phenos more prone to nitrogen overload

TASTE
Most phenos expressed a hashy, spicy, earthy quality in the taste. This has been an observed consistency with many Bubba Kush hybrids in other experiences. On average, the aroma of the buds faithfully translated in the taste both in exhale and lingering quality after a toke.

An earthy, root quality was seen in a couple phenos expressing as potato skins, ginger, and decaying roots.

The few phenos with a melon note were most closely like a honeydew melon or cantaloupe in profile. One pheno in particular had a burned caramel exhale accompanying the melon note that made for a great flavor.

EFFECT
Most phenos were solidly indica in effect. Some were just a sweeping full body relaxation that allowed for functionality, debilitating couchlock with no hope of accomplishing much more than keeping a seat warm, and a couple with a heady quality that could be daytime options.

I found the few with this heady nuance to be a more developing type of effect, in the sense that the quality of the buzz would change over time. It may begin as a mind storm with some buzzing in the extremities and settle into a more gentle elevated mood after 30 minutes.

Most phenos would be great choices for people seeking muscle relaxation, anti-inflammatory properties, and mood enhancement.

OVERALL
I think the true accomplishment of this cross was the generally consistent range of smoker experience across very different plant morphologies. By this I mean that the smells/tastes/effects/ were pretty consistently expressed in plants of varying stature, flowering time, and growth patterns.

Some phenos would be perfect for SOG method; growing as one main stalk without needing much pruning and staying compact throughout the moderate stretch. One pheno in particular (#10) had one of the most amazing natural structures of a plant I’ve seen expressed without grower training. She had multiple tops that were evenly distributed, narrow leaves to allow light penetration, and great intermodal spacing to allow bud development without the yield suffering. I could see her performing quite well in a SCROG setup.

Jabba’s Stash offers a solid indica smoke giving growers plenty of choice in a plant that can best suit their growing style.
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