BH 2022 Outdoors!
- Thread starter BH
- Start date
pwnytailjoe
Come As You Are
Picture #5[GBxPIG#3] is fantastic! I have a question about your mediums. I see on the indoor it's a coco mix and the large outdoor is aged living soil, but what are you using in the smaller outdoor containers?
Frimpong
🔥Freak Genetics🔥
Absolutely gorgeous man ??Freak Genetics (@Frimpong )
Garlic Breath x PIG
pheno #3
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BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
^ Sorry if some of my wording or ur question is being over sent out. but that kind of question i don't think i could explain what i'm doing besides going extreme pro reinforcing Organics/Permiculutre growing + increasing fungi/bacteria and micro = reason = studies show for cannabis and similiar only "bloom boost" or terp enahncer to show real proof is getting more soluble micro's (exp Calcium ) and species of fungi/bacteria. people need to realize many species take time but also like worms need food and a environment or adding them is not worth it. so my point for coco vs soil is im doing both the same by making them alive organics medium but coco i adjust the NPK and add more silica ( talk more about that later)
Easy way to copy what I did or need a Guide = If interested in what I feed,enviroment changes i do in cycle, foliars I try to fully explain the rates and what i did/when/what happened and no what if's, I don't keep what im feeding/spraying/ipm and products i use a secret or mystery/half asses, if i am explaining so anyone could understand but also know correct dosages and make it so others get good results too if they are interested . I even explain on first page all my environments and misc info
Outdoors = the soil medium of all sizes including small is 1/4 real soil ( woods/swamp, black as night ), 1/4th xtra large perlite & 40% peatmoss +10% store bought worm castings add 1k-5k all age worms every season ontop every new season (worm farm ). Ive had this square for a lil over 10 years and I first was using a rez with pumps and doing organic liquid fertilizer but I never had this cemented success and also true nature Allie’s and true bacteria/fungi relationship that really shines if you get ur medium at that level ( its def worth it to get ur medium alive ) . Not only is so many species they protect , intaker and make things that are priceless. when u asked 25 gal different? only diff is they are only 5 years of adding ferts and big thing is they are not planted in the ground. having plants in the ground not only gives them a key to a huge ecosystem but also a protection from drought to frost more so than a potted plant. One big thing i changed this year was i added my leafs in veg to the tops of my medium along with alfalfa and straw , once mid flower ill only add straw and alfalfa ( worms/bacteria ate it). I did not add to coco the straw/leafs but you also need to remember i couldn't find anyone who is doing alive coco and just top dressing it. it works and than some and i was suprised as long as u make sure u have 5-10% worm poop and add weekly teas with every 2-4 week top dressing theres zero issues.
For indoors my beds/pots the Medium are coco+ perlite & rice hull & worm poop (+ adding start of season more alive worms, all ages from my vermicompost )
The key with my method is after 10 years OD doing organics I was using coco, I thought synthetic was only way and organics was a waste for the medium. i switched from coco synthetics with weekly tea's to 100% top dresssing and same formula as my soil but a few NPK adjustments ( even when i talked to the nute companies they couldnt tell me if that was smart ). Adjustments in organics from soil I increase my silica for coco, endless Calcium added and foliar . Another big difference is i avoid feeding to much K and try to have my mid flower boost way more sulphur and P vs PK if soil dominate. key when using organics is u need a big enough medium for the alive medium to function and also not get to dry or wet. So i highly suggest Min 5-10 gal for coco alive medium/organics. reason why i choose coco over soil/peatmoss for indoors is because the air exchange and having a way better chances of when applying layers of organics and worm poop for aerobic and misc issues. the other pro for coco indoors is i can grow a 5-10 gal same size plant with only max watering 1 time a day vs way more or bigger sized plants for same sqft. if you look at ether thread i explain every-time i feed
^
both gardens are treated the same on feed besides outdoors this year I decided to not do any tea’s and only top dress and foliar spray most often.
COCO beds i use, very durable and u can move em even fully watered with ur foot np.
CITY PICKERS 24.5 in. x 20.5 in. Patio Raised Garden Bed Grow Box Kit with Watering System and Casters in Terra Cotta 2340D - The Home Depot
Turn your patio into a personal garden with the CITY PICKERS 24-1/2 in. Patio Garden Kit. The self-contained watering system automatically waters your plants and has drainage holes to help prevent over
www.homedepot.com
i only top dressed 6 times whole cycle for outdoor and once I know the medium is alive form multi cycles of adding organic material and multi species I feed 30-50% what i originally did unless i see intake needs but also making sure the medium stays safe I’ve noticed over the years my intake of organics is on point but also allowing The predators and bacteria and worms to have a real home vs artificial medium/ag . I can see why I tried to play god and not follow what nature does to work without humans and I had issues vs following the course of how plants and the medium are Allie’s and they don’t need us when organic material and environment is fine.
the key with IPM to good growing results is knowing how the bugs,bacteria plants to medium works, what species of fungi and bacteria and predators are correct for ur environment but also ur desires. for example ive invested in alot of chitin based ferts along with chitin intaker bacteria species are worth doing and making it a cement system vs relying on products. along with other stuff i've noticed I have no FG ever in indoors or outdoor and before that i was spending crazy amount for BTI and misc for IPM. having a natrualy eco system is way to go! I also notice the movable beds i use compared to the potted plants they do way better. their medium if over weatered gives a 2.5 gal tank and will not let the medium drink it to over water and if u fill the tank it goes out a hole , cool thing is theres a pvc hole on side and u aerate the water but also under the medium .
When i compare my harvest shots and yields but also how the bud looked, theres no way i would for my scale skip out on hand watering in my beds and also having the medium alive with worms/predators /bacteria there (they re- aerate it and one of soils biggest allie ). another pro thing for ethier coco or soil alive /dry amending is if you noitce a pheno or strains needing more intake of anything. just sprinkle more or less on it. I picked my beds for indoors movable cause i know you can have perfect SOG but once finish of strech sometimes you def can fuck over shorter ones exp if trellised together. so i made my beds indiviual trellised and also another pro of that is i can move my plants in a 360 at anytime for hermie scanning, IPM scanning and also pictures can be easily done.
Indoors having my SOG only 8ft long i use a 4ft hand water wand + hose with a submerse and that makes it so i can reach any plant np and make sure every pheno can get what they need or less water. when i did automation i always had a few get fucked over and rebuying of all that stuff for what? to me watering is if not one of the easiest parts and i enjoy that.
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BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
Thanks everyone for the kind words, Growing keeps me out of trouble and i cant think of anyone who knows me wouldnt disagree. + Good vibes for everyone still doing their outdoors. its quite the adventure and hope everyone a good harvest!
pwnytailjoe
Come As You Are
^ Sorry if some of my wording or ur question is being over sent out. but that kind of question i don't think i could explain what i'm doing besides going extreme pro reinforcing Organics/Permiculutre growing + increasing fungi/bacteria and micro = reason = studies show for cannabis and similiar only "bloom boost" or terp enahncer to show real proof is getting more soluble micro's (exp Calcium ) and species of fungi/bacteria. people need to realize many species take time but also like worms need food and a environment or adding them is not worth it. so my point for coco vs soil is im doing both the same by making them alive organics medium but coco i adjust the NPK and add more silica ( talk more about that later)
Easy way to copy what I did or need a Guide = If interested in what I feed,enviroment changes i do in cycle, foliars I try to fully explain the rates and what i did/when/what happened and no what if's, I don't keep what im feeding/spraying/ipm and products i use a secret or mystery/half asses, if i am explaining so anyone could understand but also know correct dosages and make it so others get good results too if they are interested . I even explain on first page all my environments and misc info
Outdoors = the soil medium of all sizes including small is 1/4 real soil ( woods/swamp, black as night ), 1/4th xtra large perlite & 40% peatmoss +10% store bought worm castings add 1k-5k all age worms every season ontop every new season (worm farm ). Ive had this square for a lil over 10 years and I first was using a rez with pumps and doing organic liquid fertilizer but I never had this cemented success and also true nature Allie’s and true bacteria/fungi relationship that really shines if you get ur medium at that level ( its def worth it to get ur medium alive ) . Not only is so many species they protect , intaker and make things that are priceless. when u asked 25 gal different? only diff is they are only 5 years of adding ferts and big thing is they are not planted in the ground. having plants in the ground not only gives them a key to a huge ecosystem but also a protection from drought to frost more so than a potted plant. One big thing i changed this year was i added my leafs in veg to the tops of my medium along with alfalfa and straw , once mid flower ill only add straw and alfalfa ( worms/bacteria ate it). I did not add to coco the straw/leafs but you also need to remember i couldn't find anyone who is doing alive coco and just top dressing it. it works and than some and i was suprised as long as u make sure u have 5-10% worm poop and add weekly teas with every 2-4 week top dressing theres zero issues.
For indoors my beds/pots the Medium are coco+ perlite & rice hull & worm poop (+ adding start of season more alive worms, all ages from my vermicompost )
The key with my method is after 10 years OD doing organics I was using coco, I thought synthetic was only way and organics was a waste for the medium. i switched from coco synthetics with weekly tea's to 100% top dresssing and same formula as my soil but a few NPK adjustments ( even when i talked to the nute companies they couldnt tell me if that was smart ). Adjustments in organics from soil I increase my silica for coco, endless Calcium added and foliar . Another big difference is i avoid feeding to much K and try to have my mid flower boost way more sulphur and P vs PK if soil dominate. key when using organics is u need a big enough medium for the alive medium to function and also not get to dry or wet. So i highly suggest Min 5-10 gal for coco alive medium/organics. reason why i choose coco over soil/peatmoss for indoors is because the air exchange and having a way better chances of when applying layers of organics and worm poop for aerobic and misc issues. the other pro for coco indoors is i can grow a 5-10 gal same size plant with only max watering 1 time a day vs way more or bigger sized plants for same sqft. if you look at ether thread i explain every-time i feed
^
both gardens are treated the same on feed besides outdoors this year I decided to not do any tea’s and only top dress and foliar spray most often.
COCO beds i use, very durable and u can move em even fully watered with ur foot np.
CITY PICKERS 24.5 in. x 20.5 in. Patio Raised Garden Bed Grow Box Kit with Watering System and Casters in Terra Cotta 2340D - The Home Depot
Turn your patio into a personal garden with the CITY PICKERS 24-1/2 in. Patio Garden Kit. The self-contained watering system automatically waters your plants and has drainage holes to help prevent overwww.homedepot.com
i only top dressed 6 times whole cycle for outdoor and once I know the medium is alive form multi cycles of adding organic material and multi species I feed 30-50% what i originally did unless i see intake needs but also making sure the medium stays safe I’ve noticed over the years my intake of organics is on point but also allowing The predators and bacteria and worms to have a real home vs artificial medium/ag . I can see why I tried to play god and not follow what nature does to work without humans and I had issues vs following the course of how plants and the medium are Allie’s and they don’t need us when organic material and environment is fine.
the key with IPM to good growing results is knowing how the bugs,bacteria plants to medium works, what species of fungi and bacteria and predators are correct for ur environment but also ur desires. for example ive invested in alot of chitin based ferts along with chitin intaker bacteria species are worth doing and making it a cement system vs relying on products. along with other stuff i've noticed I have no FG ever in indoors or outdoor and before that i was spending crazy amount for BTI and misc for IPM. having a natrualy eco system is way to go! I also notice the movable beds i use compared to the potted plants they do way better. their medium if over weatered gives a 2.5 gal tank and will not let the medium drink it to over water and if u fill the tank it goes out a hole , cool thing is theres a pvc hole on side and u aerate the water but also under the medium .
When i compare my harvest shots and yields but also how the bud looked, theres no way i would for my scale skip out on hand watering in my beds and also having the medium alive with worms/predators /bacteria there (they re- aerate it and one of soils biggest allie ). another pro thing for ethier coco or soil alive /dry amending is if you noitce a pheno or strains needing more intake of anything. just sprinkle more or less on it. I picked my beds for indoors movable cause i know you can have perfect SOG but once finish of strech sometimes you def can fuck over shorter ones exp if trellised together. so i made my beds indiviual trellised and also another pro of that is i can move my plants in a 360 at anytime for hermie scanning, IPM scanning and also pictures can be easily done.
Indoors having my SOG only 8ft long i use a 4ft hand water wand + hose with a submerse and that makes it so i can reach any plant np and make sure every pheno can get what they need or less water. when i did automation i always had a few get fucked over and rebuying of all that stuff for what? to me watering is if not one of the easiest parts and i enjoy that.
Thanks for the detailed write up. I'll very likely have a few questions pop up once I've had time to process it all.
No doubt I'll be instituting a few of your methods for soil health as I have a few large fabrics that I'm running into trouble with about 2/3 of the way through growing season [6- 60 gallon veggie containers, three seem to be on point but the other three, for some reason, peter out and the plants appear to not be getting the food they need even with amended ferts]. It's possible there are pH issues but everything does fine until that 2/3 mark. All containers are composed of the same medium and have received nearly identical inputs so I'm a bit stumped without a soil test[$150 locally, that I can't afford]
BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
Side note:
if u can, get ur plants access to communicate and also have the benefits of being in ground, what I did was get a 120 gal cow eat/water rez and I dug the holes out and than planted my 100 gal pots in there, tip on my mistake was not making sure my pot in ground wasn’t perfectly balanced, you don’t want to water ur pot and it goes all to one side! The benefits of that is ur roots will go into that true soil but also any bacteria/fungi and worm can be part of it. Also against freezes and drought your way better off! i tried 4 first time as a sample/test vs the rest. After that year I made all but the once’s too close to a shaded fence all in ground that are the large pots. having them if not 2ft closer to ground but also all the pro’s made me willing to wheel Burrell it out to the field , work but worth it!
Even outdoors and when I switched to organic top dressing even I still was getting some flaws/issues in pheno’s and they def didn’t look as healthy ( my flaw than was I didn’t have my medium alive to eat it and nute Wasn’t there, so at first feed more) , resistant or willing to fight stress like any strain I run now. people need to look at cannabis if they want quality like they do with many fruit or veggies . To stress a grape by droughts and many things introduces more hearty plants and more fruit. in cannabis to have cold stress daily with high rh is a amazing thing for terp preservation and those stresses at end like even the lower ppfd of fall makes plant know it’s fall/end her up , I know this cause if in high rh and cold indoors the terps in the room are way lower and that lower smell is because ur terps are not be burned off. key like drying and process if u can do high rh/ low temps and also low ppm npk with high micro nutes and high Bennie/fungi . Your set with stability of not relying on high inputs that can lockout ur plants medium and also per say poison her exp of non organics, exp when I have tested many times reducing ppm and ppfd at end of cycle makes a huge diff on quality and more terps. Plants know it! . even for my coco I never throw away the medium and if I’m transplanting into these mediums , adding lesfs/straw and organics weekly, how does these pots hot hill up but also become too much? The medium and things inside it are chowing it down, plain and simple. people need to realize the feeding of ur medium and knowing it takes time to have a true multi specied but also have it balanced enough you can practically not add anything once u have it done if u wanted for cycles, but why do I still? Cause I’m not feeding the plant I’m feeding my medium and the bennies/worms and misc chow it down and than the next process is its soluable nute than the biggest key vs synethitcs and pro is organics once’s broken down the plant will communicate when she wants it vs non organics no choice Inless locked out and that’s where being a scientist and also why it fails so easily exp if not monocropped.
the regular gardener needs to put this into account, do you want to “flush” , do you want to rebuy medium every time? Do you want to realize that almost all plants will and want diff feed counts and also water intakes and alsowitjout that barrier of Allie’s of bennies and predators your plant like a human without its Allie’s your the most vulnerable. giving the plant its aids and also 100% availability to intake at any time but also not have to do run off ( run off is bad in organics even for coco) is amazing. Tbh even if I was a acres or huge 1k+ rooms of lights. I would hire a crew to IPM/issue and water scan while they did it vs automation. Reason ? = the cons of such but also asking for issues within that of not looking at ur plants for many reasons ( pest/plant issues/hermies/sick) you wouldn’t even notice if not going into room or scanning…
For years i would use my shaded 1k water rez to ph adjust it ( my well water is ph 8.3) , make it room temp /warm (well water cold) and add fert if needed. Now I don’t do any of those cause I noitce with a stable medium and bennies to help the stress and intake And stability is done by bennies vs playing god
key was knowing how these bacteria function and one good example ( many do this or or similiar ) is the worm poop , its bennies are ph stable at 6.5! This is why once I figured this out I don’t even ph adjust my water for my outdoors and whatcha know no issues I even noticed when I started being more pro of adding worm poop as top dress and tea I noitced my plants def started being more stable cause my rooms being multi pheno having everything happy is def a sign to me this metjod def works but also carefree, more you use it better and less chances of fucking up cause brand new mediums def can have that issue but also no buffer.
for many bennies like worm poop, if you don’t keep ur medium semi moist the bennies die off, so that’s another key why I apply straw/leafs and try to make it not every over dry it cause you will kill a huge amount and make the compost/medium way less alive.
just like the bacteria/fungi, i would rebuy them per season and same with predators like h miles or rove beetles. Thing is now once I started making sure medium isn’t over wet or dry . Whatcha know my good Bugs don’t ever leave even when not growing, same with worms. love alive mediums cause the Actions of end result and what energy is done after going this route is 100% worth it. Anyone wanting to know more , give a reply or shout. Love talking about living soil/medium and there’s more than a book I could say for why I am pro alive medium vs synethetics for me as a gardener .
multi bacteria/fungi, foliars and health of the soil for the win! I thought for longest time it was outdoors that made terps stronger cause of the sun but that was just part of it. The bacterias and organic side def like the veggies compared to commericallly grown display on end product. Way more dank!
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