Spider mites

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
you can easily fight back in flower, np

1st step of it was me, do you have a microscope or a usb scope that you xan confirm yourself or send to a bug company/Ipm wholesaler and get a confirm on what mite it is, my guess it’s a common one like two spot mites. what’s the point of fighting the bug or pest wrong and never defeat or effect em cause of such actions of not even m owing what species family it is. A mite isn’t a mite like all things on this plant.

great IPM/bug wholesaler I would suggest over all is most def evergreen, they have confirmed on email or phone by pictures many pest or issues np and they def know their stuff but also have verified products.

Like person said above , get some gloves on and a spray bottle with iso 70% , physically remove the webs from the buds as much as you can by “ grabbing the web” and treat every swipe of the webs with a iso spray onto your hands / any tools u use with it to guratee ur killing the mites and not spreading em . Put all infected webs in something u can ethier burn or carry the leaves and throw away from garden and say goodbye to the main population , but that won’t solve ur issues , just greatly kick their ass by population .Just makes a big stepping stone to eliminate a big population of eggs and mites before sprays .

After that step Apply a “knockout “ first and as a rotational after the bio controls so you can kill eggs and main population quickly.

As the knockout option , if being a cheap option vs more expensive per gallon . Do h202 @3%-5% ( I buy concentrated version and dilluate down to 3-5%) + wetting agents ( I would use yucca extract ) , if willing to pay a few more bucks buy some greencleaner or Loast coast plant therapy and that’s a good “knockout “. Since your only applying when seeing populati0n visually snd webs, you won’t need a big bottle of this Inless your planning on having it on hand for future and ipm.

Than 3 days later ( since common mites are typically hatching at 3-4 days ) switch to a biocontrol and apply venerate xc @full rate + wetting agent than observe under a scope or visual and see if those mites are dieing in numbers or at least slowing down in the next 2-3 days

3-7 days later again if your population isn’t increasing apply grandevo wdg at full rate

If mite population shows its cease or going down , just reapply the second bio controls, which would be Grandevo ( if not controls omly rotate venerate xc and grandevo ) every 3-7 days and elate with only those inless seeing those mites are coming back .

If You do see the mites are winning / coming back , in between biocontrol just apply the knockout ( products and method listed “knockout “ above for that and then go back to biocontrol after 3-7 days

You ask why not just use one product or “knockout only “ = pests no matter what can become resistant to on knockouts and even become bored and less attracted to your defense , thus making it less efficient . Bio controls are key so you don’t developed that issue and also bring the bug is attracted to their smell and then they die or don’t want to be there because of such vs oil’s you don’t want and can become resistant fast. This isn’t a new thing cause almost all these miticides and knockouts when over used in ag and cannabis, they are producing super bugs because of that IPM plan vs biocontrols and proper usage of knockouts .


Biocontrols suggestion , key is both products at rotate cycle ( when no bugs present just apply biocontrols vs applying knockout inbetween ) . Key with buying these two products, buy the Grandevo wdg and venerate xc instead of the cannabis grade (cg), it’s just labeling and same % of same ingredients ( fermented fungi). If it’s 25%+ for a label , I’ll take the veggie/tobacco and herb vs “cg”

Grandevo® | Insect Management | Marrone Bio Innovations

knockout if you aren’t using h202 @ 3-5%

 

Ramjet159

In Bloom
you can easily fight back in flower, np

1st step of it was me, do you have a microscope or a usb scope that you xan confirm yourself or send to a bug company/Ipm wholesaler and get a confirm on what mite it is, my guess it’s a common one like two spot mites. what’s the point of fighting the bug or pest wrong and never defeat or effect em cause of such actions of not even m owing what species family it is. A mite isn’t a mite like all things on this plant.

great IPM/bug wholesaler I would suggest over all is most def evergreen, they have confirmed on email or phone by pictures many pest or issues np and they def know their stuff but also have verified products.

Like person said above , get some gloves on and a spray bottle with iso 70% , physically remove the webs from the buds as much as you can by “ grabbing the web” and treat every swipe of the webs with a iso spray onto your hands / any tools u use with it to guratee ur killing the mites and not spreading em . Put all infected webs in something u can ethier burn or carry the leaves and throw away from garden and say goodbye to the main population , but that won’t solve ur issues , just greatly kick their ass by population .Just makes a big stepping stone to eliminate a big population of eggs and mites before sprays .

After that step Apply a “knockout “ first and as a rotational after the bio controls so you can kill eggs and main population quickly.

As the knockout option , if being a cheap option vs more expensive per gallon . Do h202 @3%-5% ( I buy concentrated version and dilluate down to 3-5%) + wetting agents ( I would use yucca extract ) , if willing to pay a few more bucks buy some greencleaner or Loast coast plant therapy and that’s a good “knockout “. Since your only applying when seeing populati0n visually snd webs, you won’t need a big bottle of this Inless your planning on having it on hand for future and ipm.

Than 3 days later ( since common mites are typically hatching at 3-4 days ) switch to a biocontrol and apply venerate xc @full rate + wetting agent than observe under a scope or visual and see if those mites are dieing in numbers or at least slowing down in the next 2-3 days

3-7 days later again if your population isn’t increasing apply grandevo wdg at full rate

If mite population shows its cease or going down , just reapply the second bio controls, which would be Grandevo ( if not controls omly rotate venerate xc and grandevo ) every 3-7 days and elate with only those inless seeing those mites are coming back .

If You do see the mites are winning / coming back , in between biocontrol just apply the knockout ( products and method listed “knockout “ above for that and then go back to biocontrol after 3-7 days

You ask why not just use one product or “knockout only “ = pests no matter what can become resistant to on knockouts and even become bored and less attracted to your defense , thus making it less efficient . Bio controls are key so you don’t developed that issue and also bring the bug is attracted to their smell and then they die or don’t want to be there because of such vs oil’s you don’t want and can become resistant fast. This isn’t a new thing cause almost all these miticides and knockouts when over used in ag and cannabis, they are producing super bugs because of that IPM plan vs biocontrols and proper usage of knockouts .


Biocontrols suggestion , key is both products at rotate cycle ( when no bugs present just apply biocontrols vs applying knockout inbetween ) . Key with buying these two products, buy the Grandevo wdg and venerate xc instead of the cannabis grade (cg), it’s just labeling and same % of same ingredients ( fermented fungi). If it’s 25%+ for a label , I’ll take the veggie/tobacco and herb vs “cg”

Grandevo® | Insect Management | Marrone Bio Innovations

knockout if you aren’t using h202 @ 3-5%

Thanks very much for taking the time to add a pretty extensive option to mite control . The plants are growing in an enclosed outdoor area under a Perspex roof with a dirt base which is as far as I can tell the perfect environment for these fuckers to thrive . If future he’s going to have to be right on top of this or it’ll happen more often than not .
 

BH

Tha Dank Hoarder
Thanks very much for taking the time to add a pretty extensive option to mite control . The plants are growing in an enclosed outdoor area under a Perspex roof with a dirt base which is as far as I can tell the perfect environment for these fuckers to thrive . If future he’s going to have to be right on top of this or it’ll happen more often than not .
even if you don’t wipe em all out during this round at least you can kick their ass instead of letting that population of pest make ur plants nothing but that and then smoking alot is kinda gross .I would rather be able to harvest with a little mites than crazy populations ..


all the stuff listed above by the price it’s what the big ag use if they aren’t going the poisonous or oil based route.IPM and biocontrols and rotational IPM solves the insect issues for the most part. Once you see or have a beyond low population rate. You won’t be able to solve most of the time without destructive or non winning methods. Better safe and prevention route in small scale and speciality crops I if it was my choice )

plus when you do the math of a lot of the safe fast killers at a hydro store, a lot can’t be used in flower. They cost way to much per gallon and also don’t kill eggs . a lot of companies wanna trick ya with big ol bottles and price but the rate per gallon and how truly efficient the product is shows what I’m looking for in a pest/mold management/defense


once I became ocd about IPM and prevention. solved all my issues related and also shows you can’t fight or wait for the issues to occur. Worth all my prevention 10x the cost
 
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Ramjet159

In Bloom
A little Rock salt in the old shotgun will learn them, lol.
Got a mate who’s a farmer . He offered me a couple electric fence units and wire to run . I was thinking how funny that would be lying in bed at night and hearing these losers crashing back over the fence while shitting their pants . That’s the stuff of viral YouTube epics . I have cameras around the yard to capture it .
 

Frosty78

In Bloom
I’m grateful I’ve had an event free year besides a few punks jumping my fence and wasting their time . I so wanna cause them pain for my amusement but thankfully my better judgment holds sway .
Mine have made it through it seems. The melb metro plants are getting pulled this week too. Rot down there just starting to show after that rain and high humidity
 

Ramjet159

In Bloom
Mine have made it through it seems. The melb metro plants are getting pulled this week too. Rot down there just starting to show after that rain and high humidity
That’s great your going to be successful mate . It’s really been a perfect Summer in SA for outdoors in that we had no destructive heatwaves that blitz the foliage . Last year during those days I set up shade cloth canopy’s to counter it . I got a few small clones I chopped from the lowers on my indoors I threw outside that are about 10 days away. Should get maybe 4-5 Ozs
 
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