Collective discussion on all things Hydroponic

NotAquaMan

In Bloom
Hoping to use this thread to get some discussion on DWC and RDWC.

Let's start off with my opinion on how to transplant into RDWC/DWC and hopefully get some discussion on it.

I like to start my clones and seeds (after germination) in jiffy pellets. Being paranoid of any soil and the potential for eggs or larva I microwave mine on high for 30-45 sec.

Once rooted i transplant to my net pot by adding 1-2" (you may need more but will talk about this in a bit) of rinsed hydroton to the bottom and then place the jiffy on top and fill the rest of the net pot to ensure there are no light leaks in through the slots of the net pots. This is where you may need an extra inch or so on the bottom to ensure you can fill the net pot enough to avoid light leaks depending on the height of the stem you have to work with.

I like water temps of about 72-73f (can discuss this later if anyone is interested) and fill my sites to about 1" below the net pot. This is to make sure my seedlings roots systems can adjust to pure hydro. Roots of hydro and soil plants are different so submerging them straight away is something I feel should be avoided (with the exception of those started in a hydro clone system). The placement of the airstones should be in the center and if you have matched your stones and air pump you will have a nice amount of tiny bubbles breakfast ng the surface and misting the bottom of the hydroton essentially wick feeding them until the roots hit the water. In lower humidity conditions (lower than 60% at this stage) it's a good idea to top feed a cup of nutrient solution every 24hs until the roots hit the water.

During this period you may be underwhelmed by growth rates but don't fret over it the plant is transitioning and making roots. Top growth will explode once the roots hit the water.

Nutrient solutions at this point should be 150-300ppm the reason for the difference is because of the environmental conditions that vary from grower to grower. I made a post on VPD here that I would suggest reading to get to understand how temps and humidity will greatly affect nutrient uptake. The more water it's taking in the lower the concentration of nutrients will need to be.

Light should be no more than 10k lux (if using full spectrum not blurple) for this first week as we don't want to over stress the plant and root system.

Air temps and humidity I shoot for 80-82f and about 65-70% humidity for this first week. This will change based on light source something like HPS that gives off good amounts of IR would do better at 75-77f imo. Again check out the VPD thread as leaf temperature is what really matters not air temp.

Will stop there and see where this goes... Let's hear what works for you.
 

spyralout

🌱🌿🌲🔥💨
Staff member
The method I've been using:

- No germination (I've never ran clones outside of coco/soil)
- Rapid rooter/root riot (currently root riot, the holes are smaller, so I just push a seed in there (volcano side down) and it "swallows" it up without needing to rip a piece of rooter to cover. Don't get me wrong, I like both rooter and riot).
- leave in rooter tray for about a week, roots should be showing, I've left up to 2 weeks due to time constraints. Once cotyledons are showing pretty healthy, put into RDWC, start count of veg time
- 6" Net Pots
- fill about 1/3 way with hydroton (I avoid other brands like Grow!t from Amazon, because they all float and look like they're just "expanded clay coated" irregular dog turds instead of round expanded clay pebbles)
- put net pot in system, fill up with water until the bubbles are just bubbling at the surface
- position rooter and set on hydroton (if the roots are really long, they lay down in a circle/spiral. I'm not sure if it makes any difference, but I'd like to be able to have the long tap root go straight down, most of mine end up out the sides).
- this is also where I'm not sure if the top of the rooter should be flush with the top of the pot, or recessed/deeper in the pot. @HydroRed and I have had this discussion as it relates to F&D, and it doesn't seem to matter either way.
- fill in with hydroton
- I start at zero PPM, then add cal mag, silica, nutes, pH adjust (all one at a time after mixing to avoid lock)
- top feed for about a week. lift up net pots to see root progress. If I want to train the roots more, I will lower the water, but yes, once the roots hit water, BOOM 💥
- 250 PPM, taper up to 400 PPM for the first 3 weeks of veg, then taper up to a max of 800 PPM (anything past this is risking lockout)
- nutes adjusted relative to PK booster being added at the end
- water temp 68, can get down to 64 (I've wondered if I can kick up the PPMs past 1000 if I get the water colder, but not sure if this would have any benefit)
- Res steers system, and is topped off with the same strength nutes as it relates to the growth stage (res isn't changed out)
- any signs of lock (such as increasing PPMs) I will flush, sometimes straight RO, but I've noticed that chelating products such as florakleen have helped the flushing process go quicker)
- up to 3 day flush with florakleen at the end of flower, typically a day takes care of it (although I've read some very recent reports that someone posted attempting to debunk flushing altogether)

I have not ventured into optimizing VPD due to limitations in my equipment and environment. I hope to improve on that this run, I have a laser temp gun to check leaf temps (and light temps). The LUX meter phone app just seemed to max out every time I used it before, but that was on HPS and blurples, I have yet to try it again with "real" LEDs.
 

NotAquaMan

In Bloom
I personally don't flush, it's my opinion while beneficial in soil to bring the ppm down below 600. In hydro I feel we only need to lower our ppm and achieve more than flushing usually is accomplished in soil. I shoot for 300ppm for the last week.

I stopped using PK boost as many recent studies show cannabis actually needs far less P than most base ferts provide. Also I have seen countless plants in flower with P toxicity and high P has been linked to that harsh burning and black ash everyone used to believe was high nitrogen.

I do however feel it's beneficial to use starting a week before flip until budset. So only about 3 weeks. There have been some growers I know that seem to confirm this and some reports that also support this but I think it all depends on the base nutrients you use to begin with.

On that note I like a ratio of around 2-1-3 or close to for the entire grow. And I believe that most bloom nutes usually do more harm than good reducing nitrogen far to much and increasing P and K far to much. I can't count how many people I have seen have issues after switching to bloom nutes.
 

HydroRed

3Thirteen Seeds
Staff member
I'll run p-k booster at weeks 4-7 on the average 8 wk strain then taper res down in ppm with fresh water top offs for the last week-10 days. Ive seen a lot of folks have N issues like @NotAquaMan mentions from switching to bloom nutes too soon. Those are usually the folks that flip their nutes when they flip their light schedule which is a big no-no. Gotta use the higher N like on veg feed up til week 3 of flip or until after stretch stops, then I usually get into p-k boosters (0-18-16) or (0-10-10).
 

Caddis

In Bloom
I personally don't flush, it's my opinion while beneficial in soil to bring the ppm down below 600. In hydro I feel we only need to lower our ppm and achieve more than flushing usually is accomplished in soil. I shoot for 300ppm for the last week.

I stopped using PK boost as many recent studies show cannabis actually needs far less P than most base ferts provide. Also I have seen countless plants in flower with P toxicity and high P has been linked to that harsh burning and black ash everyone used to believe was high nitrogen.

I do however feel it's beneficial to use starting a week before flip until budset. So only about 3 weeks. There have been some growers I know that seem to confirm this and some reports that also support this but I think it all depends on the base nutrients you use to begin with.

On that note I like a ratio of around 2-1-3 or close to for the entire grow. And I believe that most bloom nutes usually do more harm than good reducing nitrogen far to much and increasing P and K far to much. I can't count how many people I have seen have issues after switching to bloom nutes.
First, glad you guys got this going!

I start just topping of my rez with straight water, finished about .9 EC. this time.
Don’t want to dump my bennies and I need to go back and look at your post about not wiping the buckets out?

I had some final bloom crystals left over I tried, they got mad.
Right environment you may not need to supplement P K?

The plants do talk or maybe it’s I smoke weed all day by myself.
 

NotAquaMan

In Bloom
First, glad you guys got this going!

I start just topping of my rez with straight water, finished about .9 EC. this time.
Don’t want to dump my bennies and I need to go back and look at your post about not wiping the buckets out?

I had some final bloom crystals left over I tried, they got mad.
Right environment you may not need to supplement P K?

The plants do talk or maybe it’s I smoke weed all day by myself.
I wouldn't wiped my buckets during the grow. At the end of each I clean and sterilize them for the next grow. That thin clear film is actually beneficial bacteria.

Definitely PK supplement is going to differ from grow to grow. In large part based on base nutes. That's why I like a 2-1-3 ratio. Good start to finish imo brother
 

Caddis

In Bloom
I wouldn't wiped my buckets during the grow. At the end of each I clean and sterilize them for the next grow. That thin clear film is actually beneficial bacteria.

Definitely PK supplement is going to differ from grow to grow. In large part based on base nutes. That's why I like a 2-1-3 ratio. Good start to finish imo brother
Ya, I barely look in mine, lids have access panel, if I see roots and bubbles, I’m straight.
You can tell signs of trouble with smell, I check that regularly.
Is the 2-1-3 ratio a premix or special blend?
 

SSGrower

👨‍🔬
Hey SS running h2o2 with your sterile or just UV. Your one of the few I know doing so if it's on the actual system. Not just the supply right? I think thats a good option.

The UV will basically superactivate the h2o2. Burns it off fast but absolutely obliterates any living thing almost instantly
Peroxide didnt work for me, possibly because I put myself behind the 8 ball flooding too deep. I ust dropped the uv unit in the res. nasty and contaminated and all, took a few days to clear it up.
I am wondering if I am missing or not have enough o2 disolved. No airstone but water splashes when flooding. Plants definitely enjoy peroxide I am probably going to do maintenance dunks. I swear I read sonething about peroxide and P uptake but cant find it.
 

NotAquaMan

In Bloom
Peroxide didnt work for me, possibly because I put myself behind the 8 ball flooding too deep. I ust dropped the uv unit in the res. nasty and contaminated and all, took a few days to clear it up.
I am wondering if I am missing or not have enough o2 disolved. No airstone but water splashes when flooding. Plants definitely enjoy peroxide I am probably going to do maintenance dunks. I swear I read sonething about peroxide and P uptake but cant find it.
Surface agitation even a powerhead with Venturi should do the trick for ya if you want to. Avoid airstones. It's not actually the bubbles that oxygenate the water it's the surface movement
 

NotAquaMan

In Bloom
So you have a source for test kits? You mentioned free anomia test, not free free but free. Got a link to EI or what it srands for?
Cant go by EI fert values or ratios. But can absolutely apply the principles.

I have this one. You definitely don't need that. You can check with just a free ammonia test. But in all honesty if you dechlorinate (few ways to do thins depending on chlorine or chloramines in the water supply) then seed you will be good to go. I mean there is more to understanding about different types but yes you can use this to verify denitrifying bacteria based on a free ammonia test kit.

Also another option to add more diversity is enzymes but you can take it as far as you want. It's a cost vs gain thing and nothing is actually a must.
 

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