Chief’s Den

jpcyan2 · Jul 23, 2020

Almost positive that is Botrytis (Bud Rot). Not much else moves so fast and engulfs buds almost overnight.

After losing a large part of several harvests, I found it was better to harvest a little early. Though it often shows up with a single yellow/ brown leaf sticking out of a bud (SSG's pic is a prime example), even the mature orange/brown pistils can be an invitation in a dense bud when the humidity is high.

I've also used products to combat soil borne bacteria. Many use a beneficial bacteria- Trichoderma Harzianum
"Serenade" is one of the products I've tried. https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/products/fungicides/serenade-opti

You definitely want to clean the area really well after harvest. As well as any tools used in harvesting. It can continue to grow even after harvest if your buds dont dry quickly.

a couple links with more info:
Methods to Stop Botrytis on Cannabis (Bud Rot, Gray Mold) | Mold Resistant Strains

What is Botrytis or Gray Mold?

What is botrytis or gray mold? Which are the symptoms and how to avoid this fungal attack? Are there any strains especially resistant to botrytis? In this post you'll find all the iformation on this fungus, a common pest in cannabis plants.

www.alchimiaweb.com

Trichoderma

biocontrol.entomology.cornell.edu

Trichoderma Biofungicides | Suppress Soil Pathogens

Trichoderma harzianum, strain T-22 is a hybrid strain developed at Cornell University to enhance certain characteristics of its parent strains. These enhancements in disease resistance, environmental tolerance and crop compatibility made T. harzianum one of the first biofungicides. Since its...

www.arbico-organics.com

GthaEnigma · Jul 24, 2020

On outdoor, you even have to watch the first calyxs that show, late in the season they sometimes die then get enveloped in the bud leaving a nice rot stronghold.

DopeDaniel · Jul 24, 2020

In my case the colas were weakend and limp. The spot with the leaf was infected but much of the plant that was tossed was identified by limpness. Bend the colas over and if they dont spring back they go, regardless if I see anything or not. I am not a fan of the wash for anything other than inert debris (like dust and pollen on od) and transient pest populations (not infestations). That said the info posted here is not bro science the risk benifit is a personal choice.

This sucks, no 2 ways about it. You did learn something, now try not be like me and repeat the same actions expecting a different outcome

.

macsnax · Jul 24, 2020

SSGrower said:
In my case the colas were weakend and limp. The spot with the leaf was infected but much of the plant that was tossed was identified by limpness. Bend the colas over and if they dont spring back they go, regardless if I see anything or not. I am not a fan of the wash for anything other than inert debris (like dust and pollen on od) and transient pest populations (not infestations). That said the info posted here is not bro science the risk benifit is a personal choice.

This sucks, no 2 ways about it. You did learn something, now try not be like me and repeat the same actions expecting a different outcome .

Isn't that the definition of insanity...... Lol

Capt. C · Jul 24, 2020

Dang @chiefer888 looks like like your original guess was spot on. I hate the thought of consuming anything that has mold on it or around it and i am the same way about bugs. With that being said i purchased Mexican brick weed for over 30 years and i am still here

. @SSGrower my new grow area is getting close to 50% humidity at lights out do you think that is low enough? I keep the fans running 24/7.

macsnax · Jul 24, 2020

Capt. C said:
Dang @chiefer888 looks like like your original guess was spot on. I hate the thought of consuming anything that has mold on it or around it and i am the same way about bugs. With that being said i purchased Mexican brick weed for over 30 years and i am still here . @SSGrower my new grow area is getting close to 50% humidity at lights out do you think that is low enough? I keep the fans running 24/7.

Ya idk about trying to wash something with bud rot. I'm fortunate to live in an arid climate and have never had to deal with rot, just pm.

Capt. C · Jul 24, 2020

macsnax said:
Ya idk about trying to wash something with bud rot. I'm fortunate to live in an arid climate and have never had to deal with rot, just pm.

I here ya. I would trash it all myself but i also know how some new growers are on there first crop. Lot of work to have to chuck everything when it's almost done

. I am not aware of anything you can do or use on the material that has mold on it safely.

DopeDaniel · Jul 24, 2020

Capt. C said:
Dang @chiefer888 looks like like your original guess was spot on. I hate the thought of consuming anything that has mold on it or around it and i am the same way about bugs. With that being said i purchased Mexican brick weed for over 30 years and i am still here . @SSGrower my new grow area is getting close to 50% humidity at lights out do you think that is low enough? I keep the fans running 24/7.

As @JL2G elluded to earlier temperature is a key factor, imo most importantly delta T. My inlet air is very dry, without doing lights at night I can't hit the high temps high higher humidity that result in the most effecient creation of bud material. The dehumidification at needs to begin before lights out and delt T should be less than 15F. To do this repeatibly and sustainably I need more control over the intake air (the insanity reffered to earlier I f'g knew it). Although I added MERV13 filters it was not enough. I have found for success I must compromise and target 40% day and night.

chiefer888 · Jul 24, 2020

I’m considering how to move forward here. Right now it’s lights out and my temt is 72.5 F and 57% rh. This is about as good as I’ve seen at lights out recently. I’m planning in taking what’s left of Endor Score and probably 1 or 2 of the honey sundae plants in the next couple of days. I’m hopeful to be able to let the Air Trigger and maybe best looking pheno of honey sundae go a bit longer, air trigger still been throwing some white pistils amd would ideally get two or three more weeks.

DopeDaniel · Jul 24, 2020

macsnax said:
Ya idk about trying to wash something with bud rot. I'm fortunate to live in an arid climate and have never had to deal with rot, just pm.

These f'rs both thrive on that delta t. Also pH shifting works on both green cure is a base.

chiefer888 · Jul 24, 2020

Also considering sifting the majority of it and making some coconut oil out of it.

DopeDaniel · Jul 24, 2020

chiefer888 said:
I’m considering how to move forward here. Right now it’s lights out and my temt is 72.5 F and 57% rh. This is about as good as I’ve seen at lights out recently. I’m planning in taking what’s left of Endor Score and probably 1 or 2 of the honey sundae plants in the next couple of days. I’m hopeful to be able to let the Air Trigger and maybe best looking pheno of honey sundae go a bit longer, air trigger still been throwing some white pistils amd would ideally get two or three more weeks.

AT is a 70+ day as you know. I should have chopped and removed the whole plant as soon as was suspicious of the circled area (maybe 2 days).
It will suck but chop it now.

DopeDaniel · Jul 24, 2020

chiefer888 said:
Also considering sifting the majority of it and making some coconut oil out of it.

Will not remove spores.

chiefer888 · Jul 24, 2020

SSGrower said:
Will not remove spores.

Yep, I understand that. My thinking is that I will closely scope any plant material that I intend to salvage to assess for any signs of fungal contamination, and only use material that has no signs of mold. As for making oil my rationale is that botrytis is not associated with any ill effects in humans when ingested, but is associated with a form of allergic pneumonitis if it gets into the lungs.

DopeDaniel · Jul 24, 2020

chiefer888 said:
Yep, I understand that. My thinking is that I will closely scope any plant material that I intend to salvage to assess for any signs of fungal contamination, and only use material that has no signs of mold. As for making oil my rationale is that botrytis is not associated with any ill effects in humans when ingested, but is associated with a form of allergic pneumonitis if it gets into the lungs.

I could not argue with that plan.

Edit- without being hippocratic

macsnax · Jul 24, 2020

chiefer888 said:
Yep, I understand that. My thinking is that I will closely scope any plant material that I intend to salvage to assess for any signs of fungal contamination, and only use material that has no signs of mold. As for making oil my rationale is that botrytis is not associated with any ill effects in humans when ingested, but is associated with a form of allergic pneumonitis if it gets into the lungs.

That's what I did when washing buds with pm. Get rid of anything visible and wash, but it's definitely a user beware scenario lol.

macsnax · Jul 24, 2020

SSGrower said:
These f'rs both thrive on that delta t. Also pH shifting works on both green cure is a base.

Almost pulled the trigger on a ionizer last year, you produce water at any pH. Supposed to be a good ipm

chiefer888 · Jul 24, 2020

Capt. C said:
Dang @chiefer888 looks like like your original guess was spot on. I hate the thought of consuming anything that has mold on it or around it and i am the same way about bugs. With that being said i purchased Mexican brick weed for over 30 years and i am still here . @SSGrower my new grow area is getting close to 50% humidity at lights out do you think that is low enough? I keep the fans running 24/7.

I assume that out east you have humid summers as well. Do you run a dehumidifier in your grow space, or in the area that feeds your air intake? I’ve got a small dehumidifier this spring that vents directly into the air intake of my tent as opposed to putting it directly onto my tent. This was primarily because my tent is small 20”x 36” so space is at a premium.

GthaEnigma · Jul 24, 2020

macsnax said:
Almost pulled the trigger on a ionizer last year, you produce water at any pH. Supposed to be a good ipm

I am using water from a kangen water ionizer right now.. it kicks the shit out of pm. It hasn't gotten a foothold after starting at the first sign early on. Knocked out the few aphids and mites i have seen too. Doesn't affect thrips, just tested that this week after a rogue swarm hit my girls. The plants seem to love it. Been alternating 2.5 and 11.0 at any sign of pm on a 3 day rotation.

Capt. C · Jul 24, 2020

chiefer888 said:
I assume that out east you have humid summers as well. Do you run a dehumidifier in your grow space, or in the area that feeds your air intake? I’ve got a small dehumidifier this spring that vents directly into the air intake of my tent as opposed to putting it directly onto my tent. This was primarily because my tent is small 20”x 36” so space is at a premium.

@chiefer888 i have everything in one bedroom or lung room. 2 flower rooms ( 1 closet and a 4x4 tent) 1 2x4 mom cabinet and a open nursery and veg area. I have a 9000btu mini-split HVAC heat and cool. A good dehumidifier and 2 humidifiers and i use them all at different times of the year. Somehow i make everything work although the new 4x4 is giving me a small fit getting things dialed in. I am now doing some additional tuning after seeing your problem. I think i am okay but i am on the edge. I know a lot of folks do put the dehumidifier right in the tent but damn those things through off a lot of heat. Not easy creating miraculous growth indoors like Mother Nature does outdoors

Chief’s Den

In Bloom

Canna-Arborist

Taste The Spectrum

Pollen Slinger

Saltwater Cowboy

Pollen Slinger

Saltwater Cowboy

Taste The Spectrum

In Bloom

Taste The Spectrum

In Bloom

Taste The Spectrum

Taste The Spectrum

In Bloom

Taste The Spectrum

Pollen Slinger

Pollen Slinger

In Bloom

Canna-Arborist

Saltwater Cowboy

Similar threads