Nothing Fancy

[Caddis]

Well your using jacks so I would be interested... Not a lot of mega crop left and since I have version 1 and many including yourself didn't like the latest 2 versions. I'm kinda leaning that way after. I don't do F&D but the same principles apply in terms of nutes. Fill a bro in on it ?

Not sure what version, been a couple of years.
I’m not pimping stuff, but with my water, running Jack’s 3.6 2.4 1.2 ratio, it’s really easy. My PH runs 5.8-6.3, but it’s pretty stable.
I read you don’t chill, mine set at 21C, Guardian reads 22-23C, I’m circulating w/ Danner 950 so would probably cool better slower?
I didn’t do F&D either, until I ran across a dude from MI.

 

[Caddis]

All this in a hello how do you do thread? This feels like journal @spyralout ?? Only id @Caddis wants to though.

?
Well, I didn’t want pay rent on two spots, but I think NHM will post the good stuff in his Hydro thread.
Move it is fine?

 

[NotAquaMan]

All this in a hello how do you do thread? This feels like journal @spyralout ?? Only id @Caddis wants to though.

@NotAquaMan would it not be best to start with a balanced solution in the first place? I am a hydro newb so to speak its been 20 years. I am not opposed to going a full run without changing the res, I am at day 25 now went 28 not having the tray full, ended up with one flowering plant and moved more after that first res change.
View attachment 8773
I am using uv.

When I did soil it was my belief that adding microbes to good organic compost was not benificial. I dont belive most organic mj growers use good organic compost therefore the benifits they see are the result of patching a broken micro biome. It is very difficult to obtain a healty micro biome this is complicated imo when growing in containers.

I agree a good balanced nutrient is a must... But what is the ideal ratio of that? I don't think we have an answer and it's pretty forgiving I will agree.

I also agree all you need to do is inoculate any media and the microbiology should balance itself if food source is available and colony sizes will be determined by that. Adding extra bacteria does not mean you get extra benefit. Infact the population spike and death can have an impact on ph of soil or media.

Also there is not really a need to inoculate organic outdoor this happens naturally. But indoor hydro it takes 5-6 weeks or so for denitrifying bacteria to occur naturally if you keep conditions right.

Much like compost or cooking soil you have bacteria that break it down. In fact in such high numbers its causes heat. Then as it's broken down the population dies off and adjust to the food source and will remain in the soil. If more compost is added the soil is already inoculated and the population will grow.

It's all the same principles.

So we start with a balances solution. It doesn't mean it stays in balance... Now like I said it's absolutely possible to do an entire grow without doing a water change. I would be foolish to say otherwise. What I am saying is doing 50% water changes will greatly lower the risk of nutrient imbalances in the grow usually later in flower in particularly.

There is simply no one or best way. But there are best practices which will lower risks is all I'm saying here. Why wait to react to an issue when you can solve it before it happens

 

[NotAquaMan]

All this in a hello how do you do thread? This feels like journal @spyralout ?? Only id @Caddis wants to though.

@NotAquaMan would it not be best to start with a balanced solution in the first place? I am a hydro newb so to speak its been 20 years. I am not opposed to going a full run without changing the res, I am at day 25 now went 28 not having the tray full, ended up with one flowering plant and moved more after that first res change.
View attachment 8773
I am using uv.

When I did soil it was my belief that adding microbes to good organic compost was not benificial. I dont belive most organic mj growers use good organic compost therefore the benifits they see are the result of patching a broken micro biome. It is very difficult to obtain a healty micro biome this is complicated imo when growing in containers.

Also if your using UV (sterile) there is no point adding bacteria microbes or any of that. It will kill anything living.

 

[NotAquaMan]

There is a hydro thread started so like was pointed out I should head over there for any more discussion.

 

[Caddis]

There is a hydro thread started so like was pointed out I should head over there for any more discussion.

Cool in here, but more accessible in the designated thread. ?

 

[DopeDaniel]

Also if your using UV (sterile) there is no point adding bacteria microbes or any of that. It will kill anything living.

Yup, yup. No bennies here.

 

[spyralout]

I hear ya both on the mega crop. Many people don't like it. I haven't had an issue with it but the version I have is version 1 not sure if that has anything to do with it.


No by topping up you are not replenishing nutrient ratios. Let's say you fill res add nutes and you have 100%N 100%P 100%K of what ferts you are using now the plant takes up 20%N 4%P and 10%K. I'm going to avoid all the math here. But you top with 100% of each again. It won't bring you back to the same ratio of nutrients you started with. You will have high P to N and K to N ratios. Now the longer this goes on the more the balance of those ratios gets out of whack. So topping up only will compound over time and cause a nutrient imbalance.

Now if we change 50% a week not too up. Then we can reduce this shift in ratios greatly. If we do 100% a week we can eliminate it almost all together. What I'm saying is with 50% changes we can reduce it to the point we won't see issues indefinitely and 100% change is not needed. This also goes a long way to reduce stress on the bacteria and plants as they don't have as drastic changes but rather more subtle. Now that nota not say it absolutely needs to be every week or has to be 50% change. I dont usually do my first change until the beginning of week 3 and that only 25%. This is because there has not been a lot of uptake in comparison to the size of my system. As the plants get bigger and drink more I increase the volume of changes because that imbalance can become more pronounced.

OK that first explanation makes sense, it think I understand now. It's not linear when you top up with the same strength because of the stage the plants are in and the different nutes they uptake. So the water that's remaining doesn't have the same ratios of nutes as when it was fresh. But wouldn't this just be in the system and not the res? I'm having trouble understanding how the ratios would change in there.

So when you say change 50%, does that mean when the res is at 50% water level (or 25% after the first 3 weeks because water intake is slower in earlier stages), you drain the remaining 50% and start fresh at the same strength as before? Are you changing out the res and the system? Or something totally different?

 

[Caddis]

OK that first explanation makes sense, it think I understand now. It's not linear when you top up with the same strength because of the stage the plants are in and the different nutes they uptake. So the water that's remaining doesn't have the same ratios of nutes as when it was fresh. But wouldn't this just be in the system and not the res? I'm having trouble understanding how the ratios would change in there.

So when you say change 50%, does that mean when the res is at 50% water level (or 25% after the first 3 weeks because water intake is slower in earlier stages), you drain the remaining 50% and start fresh at the same strength as before? Are you changing out the res and the system? Or something totally different?

Did you build a drain out system?

I just crack the valve on my system, let enough water to add some fresh nutes, but I don’t keep track of flower times either!

 

[NotAquaMan]

OK that first explanation makes sense, it think I understand now. It's not linear when you top up with the same strength because of the stage the plants are in and the different nutes they uptake. So the water that's remaining doesn't have the same ratios of nutes as when it was fresh. But wouldn't this just be in the system and not the res? I'm having trouble understanding how the ratios would change in there.

So when you say change 50%, does that mean when the res is at 50% water level (or 25% after the first 3 weeks because water intake is slower in earlier stages), you drain the remaining 50% and start fresh at the same strength as before? Are you changing out the res and the system? Or something totally different?

I think I'm confusing ya. My res is what I should refer to as my epi. So yes a seperate res is no issue... It's 50% of the water in the system I change out.

 

[NotAquaMan]

Did you build a drain out system?

I just crack the valve on my system, let enough water to add some fresh nutes, but I don’t keep track of flower times either!

So handy isn't it... 1 solution to not having it built in is a python water changer makes it easy as pie bit more wasteful.

 

[Caddis]

So handy isn't it... 1 solution to not having it built in is a python water changer makes it easy as pie bit more wasteful.

That drop down drain design is great, you see how well it empties mine.
Python water changer, had to look it up, yes.?
I have a T in my drain out with a line to drain my f&d’s, uses the uc drain out pump.

 

[NotAquaMan]

That drop down drain design is great, you see how well it empties mine.
Python water changer, had to look it up, yes.?
I have a T in my drain out with a line to drain my f&d’s, uses the uc drain out pump.

Haven't seen it I did see the empty system but maybe I missed it? Or different thread?

 

[Caddis]

Can’t really tell from the pictures I posted.

 

[NotAquaMan]

Can’t really tell from the pictures I posted.

Have to make a lil vid after so I can see bro. Sounds interesting wonder if mine is similar.

 

[Caddis]

Power has been out all night.
I can’t tell you how much power my Led’s draw, but it takes 60 kw to make a pot of coffee.

 

[Caddis]

Today I will be washing pin heatsink cobs (16), I have redone these lights almost every time.
This is just a little short, running down close reduces the spread on the ends.
Anyone else build a component type setup?
I have two identical frames over my uc. I started with one 3x3, but didnt offer any flexibility for plant height and tough leaning under it down low.
Even that doesn’t always work, always one that want to hug the ground. ?

I’m going to extend the frame and add (2) more Cree 3590 35k cobs to each frame. I will have to extend the cob rail frames to accommodate the extra length.
Some may get a kick out of my qb mount. I have a aluminum sheet I cut to mount them on now. I just threw those in there to see, HLG 288v1 on a HLG 185-54 driver, too inexpensive not to try.
I have some 3k boards for another light.
Basicallly, I have a frame and these cob frames just lay in it. The qb will lay in between the cob rails.
The ARA strips bolt on and mount the FR puck on it.
It makes the light so much more manageable, not wrestling with all the weight at one time.
I love messing with this stuff. You’ll have to call the power company if you want to know usage, I can tell you when there on. ?
You can kick me for wire management, but won’t do any good!
I’m a rough carpenter! ?

 

[Caddis]

Anyone come up with a diy single point light adjuster?
I have four ratchet straps because I don’t trust two straps to hold the light, but it can get tough to access them.

I found this, inexpensive and holds 60# (bet is more).
I’m not an engineer and they’ve already done the work.

Ladder Ceiling Hoist | Essential Garage Storage Pulley

A ceiling mount garage hoist system for easy ladder storage.

www.storeyourboard.com

 

[Caddis]

Have to make a lil vid after so I can see bro. Sounds interesting wonder if mine is similar.

 

[spyralout]

I think I'm confusing ya. My res is what I should refer to as my epi. So yes a seperate res is no issue... It's 50% of the water in the system I change out.

Ahh there you go. Just terminology. So what I'm doing sounds like it should work.

Did you build a drain out system?

I just crack the valve on my system, let enough water to add some fresh nutes, but I don’t keep track of flower times either!

The hose that adds back to the epi, I drain with that, and whatever is left I shop vac