Frimpong
🔥Freak Genetics🔥
Being sexually mature def adds to the amount ?most of my clones are the same way.
WillieP's World
- Thread starter WillieP
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WillieP
In Bloom
Thanks for your input gentlemen!
That's the direction I was leaning, I just didn't have any experience with it.
Cheers,
WillieP
WillieP
In Bloom
Not much going on at the moment.
I only have the two plants still in Veg. They both look great, and I'm just waiting till I think they are the right size to flip.
I did drop 3 Blue Dream seeds that all are up and going.
I had a beautiful Blue Dream plant that I misread and she/he was a male 10 days after the flip.
So this round I plan to put these all in 12/12 to force them to show sex and then reveg.
Never having done this before, the question is, how long do I need to let them veg before I can do this?
I know that 12/12 from seed is a thing, but I am totally clueless on that front.
The way I understand it, is the plant won't show sex until it reaches sexual maturity, I just don't know when that is.
I only want to keep one plant. My long-term goal is to be able to start a new plant every four weeks.
(I have a five plant count max) (under 5 inches doesn't count as a plant)
All input welcome,
Cheers,
WillieP
I only have the two plants still in Veg. They both look great, and I'm just waiting till I think they are the right size to flip.
I did drop 3 Blue Dream seeds that all are up and going.
I had a beautiful Blue Dream plant that I misread and she/he was a male 10 days after the flip.
So this round I plan to put these all in 12/12 to force them to show sex and then reveg.
Never having done this before, the question is, how long do I need to let them veg before I can do this?
I know that 12/12 from seed is a thing, but I am totally clueless on that front.
The way I understand it, is the plant won't show sex until it reaches sexual maturity, I just don't know when that is.
I only want to keep one plant. My long-term goal is to be able to start a new plant every four weeks.
(I have a five plant count max) (under 5 inches doesn't count as a plant)
All input welcome,
Cheers,
WillieP
MacGydro
Gum Wrapper Grows
Generally, you can start looking at around 6 weeks from planting, but it's not guaranteed.
A better guide would be once the branches start growing asymmetrically. One will grow, then there will be a little stalk growth, then another branch an inch or two up. Basically not exactly opposite each other anymore.
But even then, some strains are just plain stubborn, and won't show in veg...
But even the older, stubborn ones should start showing sex by the first or second week, once you flip to flower.
A better guide would be once the branches start growing asymmetrically. One will grow, then there will be a little stalk growth, then another branch an inch or two up. Basically not exactly opposite each other anymore.
But even then, some strains are just plain stubborn, and won't show in veg...
But even the older, stubborn ones should start showing sex by the first or second week, once you flip to flower.
MO_Grow
Underground Chucker
6-8 weeks, generally, give or take on some. You'll know for sure on maturity when the nodes start alternating. This signals sexual maturity and they will then start showing preflowers/sex in the next week or two to come. This is when they're ready to flower naturally. Then 3-4 weeks into flower, they are sexually mature enough to accept/make seed from pollen... If your plan is to make seed.
I just started my first attempt at 12/12 from seed, so I'll update findings from that in my journal?
I just started my first attempt at 12/12 from seed, so I'll update findings from that in my journal?
WillieP
In Bloom
@MO_Grow , @MacGydro
So if I am understanding y'all correctly, I should be able to sprout seeds for let's say a 10 day seedling stage, then Veg them for 4 weeks, then flip them and within 7-10 days they should show me what sex they are. Sound about right??
So when I find the female that I want and return her to 18/6, anything strange that I need to look out for??
Thanks,
Cheers,
WillieP
So if I am understanding y'all correctly, I should be able to sprout seeds for let's say a 10 day seedling stage, then Veg them for 4 weeks, then flip them and within 7-10 days they should show me what sex they are. Sound about right??
So when I find the female that I want and return her to 18/6, anything strange that I need to look out for??
Thanks,
Cheers,
WillieP
MacGydro
Gum Wrapper Grows
With 4-5 weeks from seed, they may still not be quite ready to show after a week of flower. They should show by 3 weeks after flip, latest, with males typically showing earlier, 1-3 weeks.
If you reveg right when you find out what they are, you shouldn't notice much of a hiccup, or typical reveg growth. I e. Spiral leaf, single blad, then 3, then 5, like you might see from a finished plant reveg.
If you reveg right when you find out what they are, you shouldn't notice much of a hiccup, or typical reveg growth. I e. Spiral leaf, single blad, then 3, then 5, like you might see from a finished plant reveg.
WillieP
In Bloom
WillieP
In Bloom
Wow, it's been over a month since I have posted to this journal.
Totally my fault, life happens...
I flipped the two larger plants I have going on July 21st, so about 4 week down in the flower tent.
Everything progressing nicely, it is wild to me how different these two strain's buds are developing.
The 3 Blue dream plants are all 3 very different also. They have a fungus gnat issue, but I'm working on that.
I just dropped a single White Widow seed (Fem). I'm trying to get on a start a plant, harvest a plant schedule.
Hoping to start seeds every 5 weeks, and with a 5 plant max count, I should be able to get a perpetual grow going.
If it's a Fem seed I can start just one, but if they are Reg seeds I will drop 3 and then flip to force sex and then finish Veg'ing them out.
(as discussed above)
I will work on getting some pics posted.
Here's hoping everyone is doing well.
Stay Safe out there.
Cheers,
WillieP
Totally my fault, life happens...
I flipped the two larger plants I have going on July 21st, so about 4 week down in the flower tent.
Everything progressing nicely, it is wild to me how different these two strain's buds are developing.
The 3 Blue dream plants are all 3 very different also. They have a fungus gnat issue, but I'm working on that.
I just dropped a single White Widow seed (Fem). I'm trying to get on a start a plant, harvest a plant schedule.
Hoping to start seeds every 5 weeks, and with a 5 plant max count, I should be able to get a perpetual grow going.
If it's a Fem seed I can start just one, but if they are Reg seeds I will drop 3 and then flip to force sex and then finish Veg'ing them out.
(as discussed above)
I will work on getting some pics posted.
Here's hoping everyone is doing well.
Stay Safe out there.
Cheers,
WillieP
WillieP
In Bloom
Just posting a couple of pics, as promised.
The plant on the left is the Super Silver Haze, the plant on the right is the AK-47.
SSH
This plant has a longer bud structure. It also seems to require more nutrients than it's tent partner.
The yellowing of the fan leaves seem to indicate a N def, but I am certainly open to input on the topic.
AK-47
This plant has a much more short and stout bud structure.
Both plants are receiving the same nutrients. I use dry nutes, Jack's 3-2-1 in Veg and Masterblend in Flower.
I know that it is normal to use less N in Flower, so it seems odd to me to need to increase the N 4 weeks into the Flower phase.
(maybe I need to just increase the PPM of the overall nutrient mix???)
I am feeding at around 950 PPM every other day. The AK-47 seem to be fine but the SSH seems to be hungry.
I am new to growing in soil, and welcome any words of wisdom.
Thanks All,
WillieP
The plant on the left is the Super Silver Haze, the plant on the right is the AK-47.
SSH
This plant has a longer bud structure. It also seems to require more nutrients than it's tent partner.
The yellowing of the fan leaves seem to indicate a N def, but I am certainly open to input on the topic.
AK-47
This plant has a much more short and stout bud structure.
Both plants are receiving the same nutrients. I use dry nutes, Jack's 3-2-1 in Veg and Masterblend in Flower.
I know that it is normal to use less N in Flower, so it seems odd to me to need to increase the N 4 weeks into the Flower phase.
(maybe I need to just increase the PPM of the overall nutrient mix???)
I am feeding at around 950 PPM every other day. The AK-47 seem to be fine but the SSH seems to be hungry.
I am new to growing in soil, and welcome any words of wisdom.
Thanks All,
WillieP
WillieP
In Bloom
So I've been thinking about the above statement of feeding at a rate of around 950 PPM.
I would like to bounce this off the brain trust...
Maybe I've been screwing the pooch all along...
I just mixed up 3 gallons of nutrient to feed/water with, as I mentioned I mix 3 part dry nutrients.
I start with RO water, I then put in the Masterblend (or Jack's) and Epson salt, mix well.
I then add the Cal/NI, and mix well again.
At this point I took a PPM reading, it was 510. (not something I usually do)
I then added the Cal/Mag and the Silica Blast, took another reading and near 870 PPM.
Finished with some PH down to get to a 5.8, and took a final PPM reading, it was 886.
(My PPM pen takes reading on the 700 scale.)
My question is...
Am I feeding at 886, or 510??
As I understand it, if I was using tap water I would disregard the original PPM reading found in the tap water.
If I am adding Cal/Mag to supplement the RO, should I do that first and then ignore the initial PPM caused by that addition?
I know that I am suppose to be able to read the plant and let it tell me what it wants. One of my plants is telling me it is hungry.
(I think...maybe...sorta...if I am hearing it correctly...)
If this is in the wrong place, Mod's you are welcome to move it. Or say the word and I will.
Hope my question makes sense,
WillieP
I would like to bounce this off the brain trust...
Maybe I've been screwing the pooch all along...
I just mixed up 3 gallons of nutrient to feed/water with, as I mentioned I mix 3 part dry nutrients.
I start with RO water, I then put in the Masterblend (or Jack's) and Epson salt, mix well.
I then add the Cal/NI, and mix well again.
At this point I took a PPM reading, it was 510. (not something I usually do)
I then added the Cal/Mag and the Silica Blast, took another reading and near 870 PPM.
Finished with some PH down to get to a 5.8, and took a final PPM reading, it was 886.
(My PPM pen takes reading on the 700 scale.)
My question is...
Am I feeding at 886, or 510??
As I understand it, if I was using tap water I would disregard the original PPM reading found in the tap water.
If I am adding Cal/Mag to supplement the RO, should I do that first and then ignore the initial PPM caused by that addition?
I know that I am suppose to be able to read the plant and let it tell me what it wants. One of my plants is telling me it is hungry.
(I think...maybe...sorta...if I am hearing it correctly...)
If this is in the wrong place, Mod's you are welcome to move it. Or say the word and I will.
Hope my question makes sense,
WillieP
In RO, I'd say you're feeding at whatever the pen tells you you're feeding at final read since it starts at 0 ppm. Your plant doesn't know whats tap and whats RO....it just knows the total concentration of salts/minerals that are in the water. So if your final read is 886, Id say your feeding at 886.
WillieP
In Bloom
Thanks for the assist Red!
I’m new to growing and I started in hydro. These plants are in soil and I have even less experience in that medium. As you know, in hydro everything reacts faster to an adjustment. I will increase the PPM for the one plant and see if things start to improve.
Cheers,
WillieP
Badmofo529
In Bloom
Fyi the calcium in cal-mag is typically calcium nitrate. If you need more cal-mag, bump up the cal-nit and epsom a touch.
My jacks comes out to around 950ppm at full strength if that helps any with figuring out the ppm pen thing lol.
In my experience with jacks (masterblend is probably similar), trying to reduce nitrogen in flower ends up cutting out too much calcium, and overall nutrient uptake suffers and weird shit happens.
Hope you get it figured out!
Last edited:
WillieP
In Bloom
Thank you for you input Sir!
While I have a Jack's user on the line, let me ask a question.
When you say you get 950 at full strength, what do you mean?
I mix at 3 gallons of RO water with 3 grams of Jack's (or Master lend), 2 grams cal/ni, and 1 gram of Epson salt.
I maintain that 3-2-1 ratio but adjust the amounts to raise or lower the PPM.
Is this the same or similar method of use that you use?
Thanks for your help,
WillieP
Badmofo529
In Bloom
Pretty much the same except I use a 3.6-2.4-1.2 ratio (I believe jacks recommends 3.6-2.4-1.1 but I usually need a little bit more magnesium).
I typically mix up about 16 gallons at a time so it ends up being 57.6g pt A 19.2g epsom, 38.4g cal-nit. That lands right on at 1.9 ec for me, which should convert to around 950ppm if I remember the math right (good chance I'm not lol).
The whole 500 vs 700 scale for ppm always confused me, so I stick to EC readings.
Hope this helps!
WillieP
In Bloom
Ok so I'm trying to wrap my head around this...
You are using the same ratio as I am just a little higher numbers.
3.6 to 2.4 to 1.2 = 3 to 2 to 1
So there we are apple to apple.
But you are mixing your weights per gallon of water, and I am mixing my weights per three gallons of water.
So in effect I am feeding at less than a third of your feed concentration.
I have to be starving the hell out of my plants.
The way I understand the EC to PPM thing is that 1.0 EC would equal which ever scale you are using. In my case 1.0 EC would equal 700 PPM, or 2.0 EC would be 1400 PPM. So 1.9 on the 700 scale would be 1.9 X 700, or 1330 PPM. Again that's just the way I understand it.
And apparently I am the guy who has been starving his plants for better than a year and a half, so take it for what it's worth.
I understand this on paper, but I don't get my PPM pen readings. I will calibrate my pen this evening and start off by doubling the amount of salts I am adding. I will record the reading and see how the plants respond to the change.
I appreciate you sharing your method with me. Maybe this is the breakthrough I've been needing.
All input welcome from all sources!
Cheers,
WillieP
Badmofo529
In Bloom
I just checked, you are correct on the conversion, I mixed up the 500 and 700 scale. My bluelab does all 3, I checked the res and it's at 1.8ec, 8xx on the 500 scale, and 12xx on the 700 scale.
You probably don't need to go full strength to get them in line, but bumping up the base feed closer to 800ppm or so should get them to green back up.
360ppm of silica and cal-mag on top of the base nutes seems kind of high to me, so that could be playing a part in it too. I've never used cal-mag though so I can't say for sure if that's out of line or not.
WillieP
In Bloom
@Badmofo529
Just as a follow up, I mix nutrients tonight.
First I cal'd both the PH and the PPM pens.
Measured RO to establish base in case my filters were off somehow, got a PPM of 6.7.
Doubled the amount of salts I was using, 6 g of Masterblend, 4 g of Cal/Ni, 2 g of Epson salt.
Added those the to 3 gallons of RO and had a PPM of 800.
Added 7.5 ml of Silica Blast (2.5 ml/gal)
Added 12 ml of Cal/Mag (4 ml/gal)
Both recommended doses-???
Took another reading and had 1130 PPM.
So in this case, the two late add in's increased the PPM by 330, close to the 360 we discussed earlier, and I could have been heavy handed last time.
Thanks again for trying to help with this.
We will have to see if things improve for the one plant.
Tonight she is dropping fan leaves they were hot rocks.
Looks like late fade, but she still has 3-4 weeks left.
To sad to even post a picture of...
The other plant looks great though.
Cheers,
WillieP
Just as a follow up, I mix nutrients tonight.
First I cal'd both the PH and the PPM pens.
Measured RO to establish base in case my filters were off somehow, got a PPM of 6.7.
Doubled the amount of salts I was using, 6 g of Masterblend, 4 g of Cal/Ni, 2 g of Epson salt.
Added those the to 3 gallons of RO and had a PPM of 800.
Added 7.5 ml of Silica Blast (2.5 ml/gal)
Added 12 ml of Cal/Mag (4 ml/gal)
Both recommended doses-???
Took another reading and had 1130 PPM.
So in this case, the two late add in's increased the PPM by 330, close to the 360 we discussed earlier, and I could have been heavy handed last time.
Thanks again for trying to help with this.
We will have to see if things improve for the one plant.
Tonight she is dropping fan leaves they were hot rocks.
Looks like late fade, but she still has 3-4 weeks left.
To sad to even post a picture of...
The other plant looks great though.
Cheers,
WillieP
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